I just checked a brand new spool. I can't say it is frayed to any degree but it does have some dust on it. The tensioners I use tension on the top and bottom of the spool and never touch the thread. But while I was looking at these suggestions I may have stumbled onto the solution and It may just help out some other slightly dim witted builder like myself. I did a fast test wrap and looked at it
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Help. I've got a problem that I just can't seem to fix. I've got 8 rods ready to finish but I'm so frustrated I'm afraid to even start. My problem is fuzz/dust in the finish. The finish is clear and even but it almost looks like someone has sprinkled salt into it. It is not contamination from anthing it is fuzz/dust on or in the thread itself. Even after I have applied multiple coats of CP, if
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True, I like a build up on the wraps - more personal preference than anything. I have never had a problem with this technique on a spinning rod however I would not recommend it for a fly rod. I find spinning rods to be far more tolerant to the heavier finish. I'll order the Diamondite tonight! Thanks, Jim
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Believe it or not they are ultra-light spining rods. I have worked very hard over the years to get a look that I like that also performs they way I like it. With my method the end product is a wrap that is fully encased in epoxy - well beyond what is actually needed to hold the wrapping. I simply like the way it highlights the wrap. There are now a number of rod builders in this area that apply
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I typically apply 5 to 7 coats of epoxy. I allow a minimum of 8 hours between coats. I generally do a little clean up (sanding/steel wool/Scotch Brite) prior to the last coat so I try and allow the next to last coat of epoxy at least 24 hours before I mess with it. Has anybody tried any epoxy which sets-up a little faster but still has a decent pot life. Thanks as always, Jim
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I tried a new NCP thread yesterday. Color looks good but when I applied the first coat of finish I realized I had hundreds of tiny little fuzzies popping out everywhere. Does anybody have any suggestion on how to deal with them? Thanks, Jim
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When I first got into rod building I built a very functional power wrapper. I have used it for many years and many rods. Recently my son purchased a commercial wrapper for me (I can't say I like it a whole lot better). So now my old wrapper is available. I will provide it to anyone who would like it at no charge - except the shipping. Contact me at jbura@sc
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I recently purchased a new wrapping lathe to replace the one I had built a number of years ago. I was suprised to find the new Lathe which comes with the standard "sewing machine" type motor does not have a reverse. I know just enough about AC motors to be dangerous and I suspect there is a way of wiring a reverse switch into the motor (it is not as simple as reversing polarity). Has an
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At my shop we used to machine quite a bit of acrylic. Our trick was to aneal it before machining. It could be done in your oven at home (assuming the wife is out shoping). Would have to reasearch the temperatures again but they wern't that high. Simply bring it up to temp, let it set for a while and then let it cool slowly. Makes the acrylic much eaiser to work with (If you horse it you can stil
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I had to use a little steel wool on a Butt-Wrap. It worked fine but dulled the finish. Is there a way to restore the luster of the epoxy short of applying another coat ? Thanks Jim
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I agree with all that has been written above but I would add one thing. When I really struggle with bubbles I simply heat both the hardener and resin in the microwave for 5 to 10 seconds. After doing so the epoxy seems to mix, spread and level very well without those blasted bubbles.
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I stopped by one of the local "Big Box" sporting goods store this afternoon and was struck by the number of different colors rods are available in. Green, Blue, Red, Mohogany etc... These are not painted blanks, the color is in the blank. I would like to use similar blanks but I can not find them anywhere. Why not?
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I understand that it will take some time for a 2 part "rod building" epoxy to cure completely. What I am wondering about is there a product out there that will set-up and due its initial cure faster. Currently I need to wait approximately 24 hours before I apply a second coat which in itself is not to bad but it allows that much more time for dust to settle and that drives me nuts. Unf
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I do a lot of simple open wraps but I'm struggling a little bit with the finish. Obviously after the first 1 or two coats of epoxy you can still feel and see the contours of the wrap. In addition I often have a small (1/4" to 1/2") space between the hook-keepper wrap and the tie-off on the butt-wrap. The epoxy naturally necks down in this area. If I were to continue applying more coat
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Just finished the third coat of finish on my latest project. Looked very nice until a big fly decided to check out the epoxy. He tried hard to get away but only succeded in make a bigger mess. When I spotted it the expoxy was not quite set so I removed the bug as best I could. Now that the epoxy is set I've got a bit of a mess. The problem area is no more than 1/4" x 1/4" but right in t
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I agree with Tom. I do a lot of open wraps and had this problem for a long time. After I tried every trick I could think of I finally hit on a solution that works for me. On open wraps I put on a minimum of 5 lite coats of finish. Each successive coat is a little smoother than the previous one. Eventually you get a nice even finish. It is a bit of a pain to apply that many coats but it works for
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I would say that as the CP dried it almost looks as if a few small bubbles formed and then "popped" leaving a small blemish. Jim
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Hi All, I applied a coat of CP (Flex Coat) to an open wrap last night. The coat went on straight, I did not cut the CP at all. It appears that on the wrap itself the CP is fine but on the bare blank I have some imperfections that will look a bit tacky after I apply the finish. I have seen this before. Should I be preparing / cleaning the blank in some manner before wrapping and/or applying th
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I just finished my latest rod, it is a fairly heavy 7'6" Musky rod. Unfortunately on my last coat of epoxy something happened, the finished "orange peeled" a bit as though it did not flow and or level quite right. Not so bad that anybody but me is going to notice but it is a bit frustrating. I was wondering if anything can be done. Should I just try applying another coat, maybe cut
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I have just finished a very nice open wrap on a large (Musky) rod. I have never used CP on a wrap like this. I am using Flex Coat CP. Normally when I apply this CP to a closed wrap I remove the excess CP with a paper towel. I am concerned about doing this on an open wrap. Anybody out there have and suggestions on the proper method of applying CP on an open wrap. Thaks as always, Jim
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Hey Erik, My name is Jim, I'm from the Milwaukee area. If you can't hook up with John drop me a line I'll see if I can help you out. jbura@scientif.com
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I am familiar with both of the indivdual designs but not on how to combine them with the inlay style result.
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Is this gathering open to all - including those of us from north of the border? If it is you can count me in. Please let me know.
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I have been trying to figure out a wrapping technique for a few weeks now, I hope somebody out there can point me in the right direction. An excellent example of the technique can be found on the photo board by Al Ciner - it is called Bill V's Soaring Eagle. I have also seen the technique in Dale Clemons book Custom Thread Art although I can't seem to find a description of it of how it is do
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It's not quite 18". The customer has one like it already and has asked me to make him one that is similar. Personally I don't like it and I tried to offer some alternative but he was insistant. The customer is always right............
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I'm building my first Muskey Rod. It has a long handle on it, about 18". I'm trying to decide if I should do the handle on a mandrel or on the blank. Problem is I don't have a lathe set up for a rod this long but if I do it on a mandrel I'm concerned about reaming out a handle this long. I've considered a third alternative which would be to mount and turn the rings on a graphite tube, epoxy
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I've been screwing around for some time now trying to find a good way to color blanks. I 've expended just about all the time & money I intend to but I just have not come up with a solution I am happy with. Anybody out there do or know of somebody who does custom painting on blanks. I'm not looking for anything very fancy, solid colors, gloss or semi-gloss finish. Thanks Jim
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I'm having a bit of a finish problem. I'm getting dust & cat hair attached to the epoxy. Guess I'll need to build up some sort of finishing box. In the mean time, how much and what type of sanding can be done to the epoxy finish or do I just take it all off and do it again....? Thanks again, Jim
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A quick question on Epoxy / Rod Bond. How well does it work on Nickel Silver? I am considering making some butt plugs out of scrap Nickel Silver I have on hand but I have never bonded the stuff. Will Epoxy / Rod Bond work? Do I need to prep the Nickel Silver in any way? As always, Thanks in advance Jim
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A quick question on epoxy. What is the best way to clean the siringes after use? If I don't clean them they seem to "set-up" a bit and then leave little bits of "stuff" in my next project. Thanks in advance. Jim
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