I know I am late to the party but with surf rods, one of the biggest factors for starting a rod is how far up the blank you want the reel seat to be (or even if you want a reel seat). A big problem for me with factory surf rods is that the reel seat is too close to the bottom of the blank. Usually around 28" or 30". I get better leverage when the reel seat is around 34 - 36" in
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The marbles are in there to keep the weight on the bottom and make it more stable so it doesn't tip over.
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I always let mine run all night. Other than wear and tear on the motor is there any downside to letting it run all night? PS -- I hook my dryer up to a battery backup system (UPS) just in case the power goes out or something like that.
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I experimented with this for awhile since most of my summer fishing is at night and wanted an alternative to taping on glow sticks to my rods. I can say pretty much everything i tried didn't work. The thread glowed for like 2 minutes and then you couldn't see it anymore, the glow paint lasted about 10 minutes. I also ordered some special glow powder and glow paint from a place online. They we
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My main passion is surf fishing and I used a LOT of rods over the past few years. I found that size 16 guides are the best compromise. The rods I build usually go 30 -- 25 -- 16 -- 16 ........... I have built two surf rods I use for distance fishing over the outer sand bars and I found that dropping down to 25 -- 20 -- 12 --- 12 --- ...... with a size 16 tip give me slightly more distanc
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I epoxied a fabric tape measure to edge of my work bench. On the end I nailed in a little piece of wood that sticks out at a 90 degree angle that acts as a stop right where the tape measure begins.
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I like to use carpet tape under my shrink wrap. It give is a cushy feeling and doesn't let the shrink wrap move. The hardest part is getting the shrink wrap over the carpet tape with it sticking to it and twisting.
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Bill Davidor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > When using a nail knot taping a short section of a > straw to the blank creates a tunnel which makes it > easier to feed the thread through. Actually I just use my finger and wrap the thread around my finger. I keep a pair of needlenose pliers on my bench so I just grab the ends and pull them through.
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I tie a nail knot onto the rod using the two ends of the thread and then just slide the trim band where it needs to go and snug it down. Have some color preserver standing by help hold it in place.
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all i carry to my fishing locations is a stick of hot glue for tips and some electrical tape. The last thing I want to be doing while fishing is wrapping a guide back on.
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I use denatured alcohol for pretty much all my cleaning purposes when building rods. I have never had it mar and finishes on any blanks. On the very rare occasion I really make a mess and the denatured isn't cutting it I use acetone. Again I never had a problem with it, but I would test is on a small area of the blank before using it.
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I use opendns with great joy and no heartaches. Google it.
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I thought about doing that but I was afraid of failure. I think I will try it next time now that I heard someone else does it without any problems! Thanks for the info!
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I got a problem that maybe someone has a good solution to. I recently built a 13ft surf rod (RS-su1569) and everything went as expected but when it came to epoxy my thread I had to come up with a solution for the ferrule wrap right at the end of the blank. I couldn't put it in the dryer because the jaws of the chuck would have been over the wrap. The butt of the rod built up with cork tape an
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don't kill me for saying this, but at that price range go buy a TICA surf UEHA model surf rod off the shelf. The tica USGA series rods a slightly better but at least for me not worth the extra money. Ocean Master rods are also very good and right in that price range, however they are usually geared towards higher weights.
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Very nice site. I posted it at atlanticanglers.com
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The rainshadow SU1509 is almost a 1 pc rod that will throw 8oz very well. They are hard to get anymore, but a few can be found if you call around.
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Thanks! Thats an awesome deal.
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buy the reel seat for your comfort level, not to fit the blank as close as possible. just as long as the seat is big enough to put it where you want on the blank its ok to use (within reason of course).
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I can't stand that disabling of left click on websites. It really wreaks havoc on the way I browse. It almost completely prevents me from using mouse gestures that have become a habit. Now for me this is a convenience, but I do also know that some handicapped people have special input devices that this rouge method of copy protection messes with also. I also disagree with the notion that it st
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I struggled with this as well, you will learn that its not the ring size that really matters, but the height of the guide off the blank. You initial guide size is usually determined by what reel is on the rod and you get it down to the smallest size practical as soon as possible. Just as an example 25 20 16 12 10 7 tip is probably not the best setup you are usually better off going 25 16 1
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I personally like the rainshadow SU1569 or SU1509 rods. I havn't seen or tried the new versions of those blanks yet (suR1569) so you might want to check out with someone who has used them.
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From what I gather from reading about the concept system, once your past the choke point use the smallest guides possible to lessen the weight of the rod. Basically saying size 12's would be overkill but they will still work fine. So unless you have a reason for having 12's use the 10's to save weight. If the 12's work good for you and you don't mind the negligible amount of added weight then
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as the others above mentioned, are you sure they are going to be casting the whole payload? I do a LOT of surf fishing and I wouldn't even attempt trying to throw 2lbs of weight on any rod. I would be able to throw it farther than I could cast the weight and bait. What most people do is kinda like pin rigging, but from a beach. Get a normal heaver and launch the 12oz weight (or whatever size
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I have been practicing on an old rod and my best result come from an underwrap of "A" thread and then use size "D" to hook the guides on.
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John Martines Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Well I have two identical blanks and i'll try a > spiral on one and see how it works! I'm not > worried about shock leaders as I don't make them > much more then 5' anyhow, Thanks Sorry to get off the rod building topic, but what good is a 5ft shock leader? Unless you have a few wraps of or "
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The 1509 is 150 inches long (12 feet 6 inches) (it can be cut down on the handle part of the blank). I am not sure on exact thickness, but it is lighter/thinner than most of the other comparable surf blanks that are sold here in the U.S. (I am comparing to the AnyFishAnyWhere (beech,big beach, and rock) WheelsReels (Nail,Fusion,nitro). The 1569 is 156 inches long (13 feet) and is a tad thinne
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90% of my fishing is in the surf with cut bait. a rainshadow 1569 is my favorite blank. Nice and light and durable. If you want it just a tad beefier (is that even a word?) go with the 1509. I like the 1569 better because its and even split whereas the 1509 is a 70/30 split and that tip section is huge (9ft)
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Can't you wrap some thread (or even electrical tape) on the foot of the reel to take up the extra space? This is what I have to do to use a Penn 525mag on the fugi plate type seats.
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Thank you Tom!
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