This is supposed to be a TiCH coated fly tip...I was surprised at how pitted it was...
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I imagine it helps when getting the rod loaded when you are only casting the leader and with very short casts...I can't see it helping with distance casts however...though I suppose with the reduced friction, you might see the line shoot further...and most "5" weights are underrated so people can cast further with them anyway...there are pluses and minuses to everything...
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Flexcoat worked fine for me, their logo is fixed there very well. We lost power while I was drying a zxl at night while I was asleep. I was able to remove the flexcoat even after it had hardened for 10hrs without damage to the logo.
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The break I had looked like it was crushed, and it started to delaminate in a spiral...you could only see it when flexed.
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I ordered a MHX 9' 5wt 4 piece; when it got to my place it looked fine, but I did a test flex on all the sections before I built, and the tip was already broken, however, the mudhole guys were quick about getting me a new tip section with only a few emails. They should take care of you pretty quickly. Did you contact them at all?
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20-70ft range, I really like my old GLX 8weight. Thanks Tom.
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How much does cutting 13" off of the butt of a 9' blank that was rated as a 10 weight reduce the power of the blank? I'm interested in the MHX one piece blanks, but might fish a bass tournament for fun with a fly rod, hoping to get it to around an 8 weight. I know it will slow the action, but I like more moderate action on my fly rods anyway. I doubt there is a formula or anything, but pe
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Hello, I ordered mixing cups, thinking there was only one kind...apparently I was wrong...will mixing cups with little nubs (for lack of a more technical term) around the inside of the bottom rim interfere with the mixing action of a PAC bay mixer and the steel mixing plug? The cups fit in the mixer, but I'm worried that the epoxy won't mix completely. Thanks, Ken
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I had the same experience as Eugene, their 5 weight carried 70 feet of 8 weight line in the air with ease for me...I'd try a 5 or 6 line on it.
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Hello, So I bought a fiberglass blank...and I understand that they can take sets...the blank I got has complex turns in it...almost serpentine...any recommendations on how to correct it? Thanks, Ken
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Looking for the blank, Thanks
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At the local tackle store they sell a Seeker "Kokanee Gold" rod, I was wondering if anyone knew if they sell that blank? Thanks, Ken
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Anyone know what blank the seeker Kokanee Gold rods are based on? On the rod it says KG-7.
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Thanks guys, Ken
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In reading this forum, it seems that the recommended blanks for trolling for Kokanee with down riggers are slow and soft blanks 7.5' to 8', so would a lamiglas fiberglass fly rod blank work well for this application? Many threads regarding Kokanee are 2-9 years old...any newer blanks fit the bill? Thanks, Ken
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Will permagloss eat the prowrap metallic MS-A? Thanks, Ken
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So I'm building on a Seeker Hercules 70L, thinking about spiral wrapping...so if I have fuji SiC boat guides, 8mm runners, 10mm butt guide, would a 6mm single foot fly guide be sufficient as the bumper guide in a simple spiral? That would be low, and light. Or even a micro? Thanks, Ken
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Thanks Tom, So since it seems like it would get bumped around a lot more, do you think a double foot recoil guide would work? What about on heavier rods with 9-14lbs of drag?
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On a simple spiral wrap, am I correct that the bumper guide experiences both very slight tension from the line and the most abuse relative to the rest of the guide train? Thanks, Ken
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So an update: I reamed the new grip out, and put triple the rod bond and it slid into place nicely. Thanks.
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So I have a question about blank deformation and aluminum winding checks on heavy boat rods. I know under load all blanks get oval shaped. My question is, when you have a winding check much farther up than you would on a fly rod or bass rod build as you would on a boat rod(up to 24-30" up from the butt), and where there is more flexing of the blank, will a tight winding check (+/- .001-.00
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In my frustration, I got some epoxy on my finger tips, so I felt like there was epoxy throughout, but I may have been mistaken...
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^put, not out.
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Yes, and I out plenty of quickbond above where it was intended to go...maybe I didn't put enough...
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I had only used 2-4" sections of EVA for split grips until this morning when I tried to put a 12" section on a sturgeon build. It was no problem to get .5" ID over much larger blanks with short pieces of EVA. It was impossible for me (who lifts weights regularly and can bench 225lbs, so I'm not feeble by any means) to get the 12" .5" ID section down a blank area with a
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Glenn, It is pretty funny, I used to fish a lot with a guy on lake berryessa for smallies and largemouth, there's not a lot of weeds or cover, mostly just very clear water and rocks, but he was using I think 50lb braid and 30lb flouro leaders...so I took out my "trout" rig, a 6' light spinning rod with 4lb test mono, and proceeded to thouroughly out fish him and have more fun catching
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Thanks guys, Would you spiral wrap? I went with the seeker Hercules 70L, got an American tackle reelseat and slick butt, the eva grip Glenn recommended, and fuji SiC 8mm boat guides with matching tip. My friend who fishes for sturgeon is using 65lb braid...but that seems overkill for me when the reel I'd use can only put 15lbs of drag, and the blank is only rated to 30lbs...what test line wo
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Would you guys use SiC or SiN guides?
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Thanks, What kind of guides? Under wraps? What kind of grips you guys use? Ken
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Alright, so a heavy, soft tipped fiberglass blank... I've only built fly rods and bass rods, and working on a barracuda rod as we type (but it's pretty similar to the bass rods)...what kind of set up for these heavier rods? Thanks, Ken
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