When I load the rod, the static load placement says I should move the choker guide I put there based on the NGC...which takes precedence? Thanks, Ken
Forum: rodboard

What reels are you using that let you cast lures that light?
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Thanks Isaiah.
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Has anyone done this? Or as the largest size, does it not accept this well? Thanks, Ken
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It's koa...I grew up in Hawaii, and he told me the rod itself was just finished, only waiting to be "seated"...I expected to wait around a year...not upset with the wait...just can't believe he didn't start looking right away, or at least 2-3 months before he thought the rod would be ready if he thought it would take that long...
Forum: rodboard

I'm not unhappy with the wait...that was expected...but to wait til all it needs is the reel seat to look for the type of wood I requested seems like poor planning at best...
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I won't say the builder's name, but I put an order for a bamboo rod 13 months ago, and at the time I put the deposit down, I asked if I could get a special wood insert for the reel seat...the builder assured me it could be done...now that everything is "ready", the builder emails me to ask if I want to wait 2-3 months for the specific wood, or choose from an assortment of woods in a pic
Forum: rodboard

Couldn't you cut the feet off a recoil double foot guide (if it fits) and do what you're describing?
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Sorry...my phone will double post sometimes...
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My search-Fu here is always sub-par here...so here's a few questions for people with better search ability or actual knowledge... Can you order a minima seat with different i.d.'s for each part of the seat? The blank I'd like to try the seat on is about 10.9mm 8" from the butt, and about 10.6mm 11.5" from the butt. Do you buy smaller and ream out? I imagine epoxying this seat to the
Forum: rodboard

I would think NFC taking so long to release blanks is because they want the blanks to be as good as they get without us needing to fiddle with them...
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Any idea of when the aquashield will be ready? Pricing? Thanks, Ken
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What is the ring material? Is it also stainless?
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I think Tom K doesn't want us to post names without first dealing with the sponsor first...I'll respect that, and return the item...I'd never seen a fly tip that pitted ever, let alone one that I haven't even put on a rod yet...I am building a rod with blued nickel silver hardware, and hoped the TiCH coated guides would match nicely and they are supposed to be just as hard as chrome...
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No...I just got it...supposedly new...
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Bought it from a sponsor...
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And do you think it will affect fly line/leader? Thanks, Ken
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Thanks...the browser I was using converted it to bitmap, so it didn't load last time...
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How long does it take to show up on the photo board? Thanks, Ken
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I always end up putting a little too much of one part, as I use the 12cc syringes...I try to only use 2ccs at a time, but a slight error will leave the finish tacky...I know that if I use 3 or 4ccs, that it will be less of an issue, but I don't want to waste...
Forum: rodboard

I got tired of slightly mis-measuring with the syringes, so I got the pumps in hopes of making life easier...but it seems that the pumps keep introducing bubbles no matter how many times I prime them...any suggestions?
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Glad I asked... Thanks, Ken
Forum: rodboard

Awhile ago, someone mentioned that pg will melt flexcoat measuring cups...will it also melt decals? Thanks, Ken
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On the side facing away from the foot of the guide, there's excess metal that forms an edge...it almost seems like if you had the rod fully loaded, it would rub on the line... Does anyone have experience with this type of guide (they are size 4 micros)? Should I get a different brand? I got these cheap...I guess you get what you pay for...
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Will the flexcoat cups survive permagloss?
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Which metals are not ideal for use with a titanium reel seat in salt water? I heard that certain metals will tend to get stuck, but have forgotten which types of reel seats and reel foot materials did that... Thanks.
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I've cast both well into the backing...the Winston is a little heavier, but you can feel it load better...the sage is lighter, but unless you have all the line out, it's hard to feel it load...I cast both and the Scott s4s at the ISE, and would rate the 8 weights: Scott, Winston, sage...I like winston's lighter weight rods more than their rods over 5 weight...
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Does the UV protection do anything other than prevent the fading of the wraps? How much softer is the spar urethane compared to permagloss? Is there anything else to consider beyond what I listed in the first post? Thanks Tom.
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So after reading about these different finishes, let me see if I have all the information right. Urethane finishes: -thin like water, needs multiple coats -will finish thin -harder than epoxy, yet more flexible -will not yellow/darken ever -in some posts, some say it does not provide UV protection for the thread, yet some urethane products claim to have UV resistance -no mixing, less ch
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Doug, I tried that before, and it works well on glossy blanks...but the residue shows up on bare graphite blanks...
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