The friction I was referring to was on heavy off shore rods, sorry that I did not clarify. Your point about manufactured is correct, Many manufactured rods are built the cheapest way. Reducing the number of guides by 1, 2, or more guides per rod times thousands of rods is more profit for manufacturer. There are many factors that go into building a rod and it starts with the type of rod, weight o
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The purpose of having more guides is to follow the bend of the rod while fighting a fish and not have the line come in contact with the rod. The line rubbing the rod causes friction which weakens the line. Look in the Library and read "Static Guide Placement." It will explain a lot. Proper guide placement equalizes stress on the rod blank (less chance of the rod failing). My 2 cents.
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Just a word of caution - Check the color preservative directions as to the drying time. Most say allow 24 hours to dry before applying finish. I have applied finish within an hour of applying CP, the results was not good.
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White carbon fiber, problem solved.
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Roger, just a thought. I have white plastic handled butcher knives that get bloody when I cut meat, to clean them I use a 50/50 mixture of bleach and water. This cleans the blood stains, the stubborn stains a little brushing does the trick. I also use this method on old cork handles with much success. I agree that the white handles would a pain to keep clean, but that is the price you pay for wha
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This will be a spinning reel. Some of my freshwater rods have the locking nut up and some have the nut down. Thanks for the reply's.
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I am building a surf rod and wanted to know which way other builders face the threaded end of reel seat. In the past I had the threaded end facing the butt of the rod. This allowing the hand to touch the fore grip not the threaded end. After doing a search of the web I find seats placed both ways. Which do you prefer and why? Thank you.
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As soon as I ask for help I found the one I needed.
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Does anyone have any Stuart roller guides? I need to replace an A 3 gold for a rod repair. So far I have been able to find only a few black and chrome sets.
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It is gloss gray and it has a telescopic handle and was sold as a Flipping Stick blank. Thanks for the information.
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Does anyone have an old G Loomis catalog with the blank P903X listed in it? The blank is at least 20 years old. I built a flipp'n stick and a 2 piece popping rod and the blank was one of these rods. Any help would be appreciated.
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Would a 3.5 micro guide be too small for a rod of this wt.? Or would a New Concept 4 or 6 be better? I have a 5 wt. that I am debating on using the smaller micro guides.
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Thanks Tom. I had a Uni-Butt installed and a roller tip. Now I'll go with the light roller guides.
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I pulled out a rod I had started building 15 + years ago and begain to finish it. My problem is I do not remember what weight it is. It is a Fenwick Fenglass RT6312W. I contacted Fenwick and they could not help me. I think it is a 12 wt. stand up or trolling rod. Can anyone help be with the weight of this rod?
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Thanks for your input. I have built several rods with threadless guides and I have one setup with micro guides.
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Has anyone done a rod with micro gudes without thread? Are the guides too short or too small to allow a thick enough application of PermaGlass?
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The cost seems high till you figure your time to leave your rod business drive an hour 1 way, 1 hour to drive back with the parts and the cost of fuel. Those rates are cheap! Your time alone is more than the cost of shipping if you have a supplier with everything you need within 1 hour drive time. I have ordered rod parts from Mud Hole to finish a rod for a customer and shipping was more than the
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I will have to dig out Billy's book and and update my "memory banks." Thanks Mr. Adams.
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In Dale Clemens' book "Custom Rod Thread Art", page 7 is the method for spacing the designs onto the rod. Scott's and the one I use are the same as described on page 7. Scott's method is math (3.14 X diameter rod) and mine is a card cut to wrap around rod. After the space is determained use the method on pages 254 & 255 of "Advanced Custom Rod Building" to layout the cent
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What is Andy's recomended drying time? I have dried Flex Coat with a hair drier while it is rotating and applied finishing afer 3 hours when I was in a hurry. I normally allow CP to dry over night.
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This is the method I use - The circumfrance of the blank is the distance from the center of design to center of design. I take an index card wrap it around blank, mark diameter and cut. Remeasure cut piece as to diameter. This will give spacing on the top of blank. For the 180 marks, fold cut piece in half for starting mark, then unfold and mark the rest of blank to be wrapped. This method is v
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I am sorry to sound dense, but from your responce (Tom) there are at lease 2 applications. Each application has 4 or 5 coats about 30 minutes apart. Wait 3 or 4 days, use Scotch Brite and lightly score or scuff finish and apply 2nd application of 4 or 5 coats or till finish is reached. On my first rod I applied all my coats at one setting, rod was on a turning on turner and went to bed. The next
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On my first threadless rod attempt I put on too much PermaGloss and had air bubbles in the finish. I cut and sanded the areas down to the bubbles then recoated. On another rod with threads I used a hair dryer and the heat brought up bubbles. They were brushed away with a dry brush. I then added 4 more coats and used a hair dryer between each coat. The total time was 30 minutes and the PermaGloss
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<[email protected]> is my email
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Tom, Years ago I bought a large quanity of Holland thread and still have not used it all. I have the following: 1 cone #7006 green/silver (1 oz) 1 cone #9010 brown/gold 1 cone #9011 brown/silver 3 cones #9013 white/gold 1 cone #3361 tan/rose 2 cones # ? yellow/gold 1 cone 191 lt orange/tan Can you use ant of these? Make me an offer. John
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In the RodMaker Volume 9 Issue 6 (page 10 - 13) Bill Stevens explains how to install guides without threads using Perma Gloss. According to Stevens the guide will fail before the Perma Gloss seperates from the rod (picture page 13) . So if you have the color thread you want to use, use it and cover it with 5-8 coats of Perma Gloss. Perma Gloss is a waterproof polyurethane adhesive and Flex Coat
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Just a thought. If you have an old thread and the color is what you want to use, then why not use Perma Gloss instead of Threadmaster or Flex Coat to encapsul the work?
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Bill, Thanks for your responce. There are 2 consepts discussed on this topic-1) the lightest, most sensative rod one can build and 2) the more decorative or artestic rod one can build. The next step will be to add marbeling!
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I have read and reread the article and I have a few questions. What do you consider 5 to 8 coats? Is each pass of the brush a coat? Is the rod turning as with epoxy? Article did not state. Sorry to sound picky, but I am going to build one of these rods and I just want to make sure of the process before I start.
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