Appreciate the offer. I have been researching the wrap and have found several nice starting points. If you wanted to email me some lay out numbers for a 9 foot rod I certainly would not disregard it as a nice starting point. steve.lynas@gmail.com It seems to me the object is to get the lin
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Well I suppose the next and quite possibly last question is, What is the best way to gain the knowledge I would need for the guide placements for this spiral wrap on a wire trolling rod?
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Forgive my unfamiliarity with the term "Spiral Wraps". But are you referring to the method of wrapping guides in a spiral formation around the rod blank. If so do you think there is major advantages being achieved with this style of guide placement for trolling rods. "I tend to space the guides slightly closer (one extra guide for a ten footer) for wire rods as insurance agai
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Typically roller guides are found on these type of store bought rods for Salmon Fishing Lake Ontario. I would like to re-build a slightly abused Shimano 9ft Telora fishing rod (Model TLA-90MC-2) into something less typically found in my fishing circles. In other words I would like to perhaps use a med./heavy boat style guide rather then the typical roller guides being used by fisherman in
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Thanks Tom I will proceed as I deem best then. As to the manufacturer of the blank I do not really know. All I can say with confidence is that the blanks have stood up to some pretty spectaclular punishment over the years by both both the owner and his quarry. As a result the poles have become sentimental fixutres on his boat. I have considered doing spiral wraps. But for me, until
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After reading my question some might just wonder why I didn't just build a new rod, and perhaps I should have. However, these rods have become very sentimental to their owner and quite frankly to me as we fish together quite often. So aside from some beat up guides and worn out handles these old fiberglass blanks still have an action that makes fishing 25 to 30lb Chinooks a hoot here on Lak
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I am restoring an older downrigging rod for a customer who has a real sentimental need to keep these two rods on his boat. My thoughts have been to restore this rod to an original look, feel and play. At least as much as I can. Basically to give him back a new version of what he bought and feel in love with many years ago, albeit with some material upgrades. That being said the American Tackl
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Thanks I will take a look and give it a try.
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I have tried to contact Seviermfg using this page's contact sheet twice now with not reply. If you have any other suggestions for contacting Dave I would appreciate it. I am not having much luck on the Sevier website contact page. Does anyone know if Dave is still in business? Thanks
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I am interested in finding a Canadain supplier of these blanks. Specifically, the GF-60-2/3 fly blank. It is a 2 piece, 6 foot fly blank for 2/3 weight. Thanks Steve Lynas Ajax, Ontario Canada
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I guide in Northern Quebec, Canada but live in Toronto. The resort I guide at are known for a their particular strain of Brooke trout specific to that area's lake. They routinely get to be 3 to 4lbs with records getting into the 7lb range. I am fishing off the beaten path where bush constantly gets longer poles hung up during hike ins and walks along stream sides. The streams are small and th
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I recently gave away a nice 4'6" Browning spinning rod to a friends son. I want to replace it with a build. I am looking for some blank suggestions. My critieria is that I want the same small size, as light as I can get away with for 3 to 4lb Brook trout. I had a quick look on Mudhole but didn't see much except a one St. Croix blank. I already have several St.Croix blanks and I like th
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I over reamed the forward section of my 12" cork butt grip. I tried to build up the void with a couple of revolutions of masking tape. Much the same way as I used it for arbors on reel seat. We are not talking alot of space and perhaps two or three revolutions of masking tape. I rushed it to glue and now there is a noticable void just aft of the forward section of my rear grip in a len
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I downrig for Salmon with both fiberglass and graphite poles and have nothing critical to say about either. I can't explain it exactly, but for me I just like the action/feel of my fiberglass poles, not too mention they have taken a @#$%& kick'in for about 20 years and still work well. They look a little dated but they feel great when a big one is pulling off 200 to 300 yards of line. The prob
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Interested in knowing anything, anyone can tell me about these X-Glass Blanks. Has anyone tested them to their limits yet. I am thinking of building a Down Rigging rod for Lake Ontario King Salmon. The average size of these fish is about 25 to 30lbs. I want a rod that will be fully tested with these fish. What is X-Glass exactly? Is it just fiberglass or is it some type of hybrid betwee
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Appreciate the help with my needs but I am having a hard time finding a specific fiberglass blank that meets that criteria. I could not find a single slow action pole in all the blanks being offered over at Mudhole. Moderate was a close as I came to a downrigger blank and that was the MHX series. I would love to find one that is offered as slow action with a med/hvy power rating, 2 pc in t
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I have looked at the MHX downrigger lineup and the price does put a smile on my face. It certainly offers me the Iow cost I was looking for. I don't really know much about these blanks as they seem relatively new on the market. They are marketed as the custom rod builders choice rod, as they are only offered to custom builders and this sort of makes them unique to us. They seem to be serializ
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Looking for a good price on fiberglass blanks. The application I have is a Great Lakes salmon down rigging trolling rod. Presently I am using the Shimano 2 pc 9 foot TDR series and would like something similar in size but perhaps with a slower action and some better feel. I would like some nice bend into the butt section with these 25lb average salmon. Like to feel all the head shakes. Looki
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Thanks Gents It is going to be used with a centre pin reel. Keeping the guides (if possible) close to the joint for ease of alignment does make some sense. I have purchased #8 tip top ring size so that fits your opinion, but I am afraid the stripper guide I went for was a 25. They go down from there til I get to #8 ring size which they stay til (7 qty) til the end. Steve
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Friend bought a CTS blank for a float rod build and gave it to me to work on. He added about a 8 inch extention so now this rod from butt to tip is about 14'2" I have 13- 14 Pac Bay Minima guides I have ready to go with this pole It is a three piece rod and I am just not sure where to start with guide placements. This is the longest pole I have ever built to date. Any suggestions w
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Thanks but a 10mm seems like a small stripping guide compared to say the G.Loomis STR1562 GLXCP 13 that compares to the rod I am building and has a # 20 stripping guide. I realize that we build rods because we want something different then the rack, but as a reference the 13 foot Loomis rod I mention above has 10 guides total, from butt to tip as follows, #20, #16, #12, #10 #8(qty 6) tip top 4
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I have a 13 ft , 2 pc G. Loomis ST 1562 Rod. It has a 16" cork handle. The tip top diameter is .060" or 1.6mm. Could anyone provide me a suggestion on Quantity and Size of guides to completely cover this rod build. Presently it has no guides on it at all. The primary use for this pole is Float Fishing Rainbows in and around tributaries on the Great Lakes. These fellows avera
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Thanks. As usual for me would be to use the Threadmaster Thread finish. Do you foresee any problem mixing it with the Spar Urethane finish on the rod?
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I am trying to restore an old bamboo rod I was given. I have some moderate experience with graphite builds and feel I can give this rod an honest go. I have spent a lot of time reading old post regarding stripping old varnish and finishing bamboo rods. I believe I am ready to wrap guides and use a finish on the pole. I have purchased Miniwax Helmsman Spar Urethane as it was the most r
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Thanks for the advice gentlemen. I do not have any of the original male ferrule it broke off and was lost. As Tom has described I have a tip over butt ferrule, but the butt end broke off inside and was disgarded/lost. Tom's final alternative was sort of the idea I was thinking of at first and it seems to me to be the least trouble. I am not sure if the "new female ferrule (
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I have been doing searches with regards to Ferrule repairs. The best hit I get is a reference to a Ralph O'Quinn article written on repairing plug/spigot ferrules. I must admit to being clueless with regards to the differences in the two ferrules. I would like to describe the situation I am faced with and get any and all advice from this forum. I have a two piece med. spinning Fenwick rod 6
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This may be a stupid question but I just purchased some Pac Bay wired Frame Boat guides for a trolling rod I am re-building that uses wire line. I just assumed since they looked exactly like the guides I took off that they would be ok. Will the Stainless steel frame wear well over time against the wire lines. I am not sure the type of wire line and it is possible that stainless wire is being u
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I am trying to re-buildfan old sentimental trolling rod for a friend. The tip top looks like a door stop. You know those spring things that stop the doors well this tip top is exactly like that. It is approx. 2 1/4 inched long and it funnels from small at the tip end to a approx. 5/8 diameter on the end of it. Does anyone know where to get new ones or are tey some type of relic and no longer
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Just used threadmaster for the first time on a diamond patterned butt wrap. I have been reading on this forum all the positive attributes of this thread epoxy. The one I never realized and was pleasently surprized by was the way it never changed the natural colour of my threads. For example I used Gudebrod Garnet #206 and usually I can expect this colour to darken up after I apply my Flexcoat
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Any success I have had with staining came when the handle was already shaped to what I wanted. I have never tried staining prior to turning the handle down but I would suppose that the stain does not penetrate the cork surface very deeply, therefore I think if you tried to shape it after staining you would turn off the stain you have put on, IMHO. Secondly, I believe you would be wise to seal
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