Hello, I'm looking to build a west coast rail rod, #130-unlimited. What are some technical aspects of the newer Virtus UL vs. Virtus XHD?
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Hello to everyone, Its been a few years, but I need to reach out for some fresh eyes and help. I've stepped into conventional West coast stand-up and have come across some reel seat/mounting obstacles. The builds: Calstar BTG6480 (#30-60) MHX GFC90MH (#30-50) The obstacle: Where I want to place the reels, the blanks' diameters are 0.96in and 0.85in, respectively. The Calstar, I foun
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Thank you for all your help! I played around with it a bit and added some more flex, especially at the bottom of the guide frames at the blank. No more squeaks or ticks!
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So I finished a slow action, freshwater, Seeker E-glass rod, for a friend. As he was inspecting and wiggling it around, we began to hear a tick from 2 guides. It almost looks/sounds as if the flexcoat did not bond to the blank. I find it super annoying and I feel it reflects on my craftsmanship. What did I do wrong? How can I prevent or fix it?
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Ok so about 2 months ago I purchased several old Lamiglas fiberglass blanks. While working at the Sacramento ISE, I was able to meet up with an old Lamiglas rep. He told me that the Proffesional Outdoor Products company was the distributor name for Herters. The blanks could actually be called Lamiglas/Fenwick, the only difference was a slight color change of yellow. Got a pretty good history l
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I wrapped a rod for a friend with a topless mermaid! Unfortunately, his girlfriend wasn't as happy as we were to see how well it turned out. You could heat up the finish and deconstruct it like how you do with a guide wrap, but that might be difficult since there isn't thread to pull off the finish. In my case, I just did a solid color wrap over the decal. If you finish is uneven, you might ne
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My uncle still has many of those honey colered blanks. For my Xmas he gave me an old Sabre California 100+lb. He claims that the materials and methods they used were very good, but couldn't comply with EPA regulations. I have contacted Lamiglas so hopefully I will get more info, but its just to fill my curiosity.
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I have recently purchased a set of 3 Lamiglas fiberglass casting blanks online at a very reasonable price. The seller says that these blanks were specially made for a company named Professional Outdoor Products in the 1970's. He has model numbers (#626, #684, #784) and blank specs. I was just wondering if anyone knows how or where I can look these up. Who knows...someone here might have a 40 year
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For real huh?! Blank and components...Flordia to California...at my front door on day 3 after ordering.
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Thanks for the advice. I don't know if he will go for the transparent guide wrap. He was pretty set on the image of the skin covering the feet. Either way it goes I'll be sure to post some pics. It might be a while since he hopes of grabbing a blank at the Sacramento ISE. Thank You
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Thank you Mr. Blomme...Finally someone from industry. Haha got to love NaCl. Maybe they should look up DI water next... Honestly...I have nevered heard of a rod builder igniting there homes with a vapor trail of acetone or facing death because of chronic exposure to xylene or permagloss. I've heard of a builder getting Radon poisoning. Oooooh possibly another scare thread for those who think
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Recently, I ran into a family acquaintance who hunts snakes and sells their skins. I've only wrapped for myself, family and friends, but he has offered to pay me for my services. I have never worked with snake skin. I've seen and read them used as inlays and underwraps, but he wants it as decorative guide wraps. Has anyone ever attempted this? I figured I would have to wrap the guide with threa
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Yes. All of these are volatile and should be kept away from an open flame, unless your are using a flame finish. But remember to consider the very low ppm present with the limited amount.
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Because epoxy is of organic nature, I like using a well known organic solvent, IUPAC: 2-propanone, or more commonly known as Acetone. In chemical industry it is widely used. Also, it will not affect the blank due to graphite's non-reactivitiy and is used to clean fiberglass items. Just crack a window so the ppm don't get too high.
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With the sizes and conditions you are describing, you should probably take a look at some saltwater blanks. There are quite a few out there that are rated for 50+ and wont break the bank. I would like to see some of your monster cat pics.
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Not at all. How could you already? D' will do just fine for your first rod. Its way easier to work with. A' can sometimes be very fustrating, but it does look pretty slick. good luck
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Sand it with Fine 400 grit paper. It works the best if you have a power wrapper. It only takes one or two drags up and down the handle and there is barely any cork dust. Remember to recoat with cork sealer after you clean it with any of these methods.
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Sorry Larry. I'm not from Pottstown, born and raised in California. I was attempting to figure out what was going down before it happened. I have however seen a spool of gudebrod line. One of the guys at the shop brought it in and has hopes it might be worth something one day.
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I use a method similar to Roger's except I don't do his step 5. A piece of advice I can offer is if you think your tip is not on right or straight, start over again with new glue. If you reheat the original glue on the rod tip and use that to place your tip-top back on, it loses its strength.
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Where have you heard of Gudebrod reopening? I kept track of it when it closed down and was evening emailing a writer from the local Pottstown Mercury. Her segment was titled, "Gudebrod closed for good after banks foreclose," although it did say there was a buyer of the thread division. I'm a little skeptical.
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Another simple thing which can be done and continue to use is to go and buy a color wheel. They make them small and rotatable. The only hard part if figuring out what the finished thread will look like. Good Luck
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Thank You for all your help, especially Roger for walking through it. I'm just so use to having arbors to support enough epoxy paste within the seat. I'll be sure to takeit all into consideration when I start.
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Im building a striper rod and am interested in using an exposed reel seat. However, I have seen an exposed seat give up and turn on a anglers before. The Fuji ACS 17 says it is ribbed. Are the ribs long enough to make up for arbors and is there enough epoxy to have a strong lasting bond?
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I forgot about this forum, its been almost a year. Well for my Senior Project I made my very own custom bass rod under careful supervison of my mentor. It turned out great! I have decided to make another one. My only major problem is dust. I could apply the coats in my room or in my garage. Both can get pretty dusty. In my room, I have a ceiling fan and a window. In my garage there is a s
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You thanks Nick for setting me up with this site... now I just need to find a good bass blank. Devin
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