Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make sure there is enough glue in the tip top hole . I question my self as to whether I have completely glued the tip top on well . I do put the glue on the rod tip but never know how much is actually going into the guide hole. Is there a better glue out there for this purpose?

Maryann,
this is how i do it for what that is worth:
I get that glue stick very cold. I take a nutmeg grater and grate it into little particles. I then keep particles in a medicine/pill bottle. Its about like a fine grind Parmesan cheese.
I use a small pinch in the tip top and heat until it just sizzles(a second or two is all it take) put the tip top onto the rod and when almost seated well spin it twice. Then seat it all the way . Its good to use a long nose pliers for this or you will get some interesting blisters from the hot tip top.
I have not had one come off due to lack of glue, a little goes a very long way if it correctly sized. I have very little oozing this way. But i have seen many others ways, this is what works for me.
A friend used to use one sided razor blades and cut pieces off the glue stick sort of a fine julienne carrot size and stick one into the tiptop. Worked well for him: me, i cut my fingers once too often.

I put it IN the top, not on the blank. Here's what I do [www.rodbuilding.org]

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I heat the tip top and scrape it across the face of the glue stick (I use Gudebrod large sticks). When I push the tip on I expect to see glue squeeze out of the space at the top of the tip.

Maryann,
I have tried all of the methods suggested above and use none of the methods.
I have never actually had a tip fail, but I would sometimes get nervous to know if I had enough glue in the tip of the rod.

Now, I use a very simle very reliable method, as follows:

1. I have the tip prepped, the tip top prepped, and I have trial fit the tip on the rod tip to know that it will nicely fit.
If necessary, I will put a very slight bevel on the rod tip, to insure that I don't snag a piece of graphite and get it on the outside of the tip when installing the tip.

2. Using an alchol lamp with 99% pure alchol - I heat the adhesive. The reason that I use the alchol burner is that there is NO smoke and no black deposits on the tip or on the rod tip. If you use a match or a lighter, you have a yellow smoking flame that will leave a black residue on things.

3. Once the end of the glue stick is nice and soft, I will immerse the rod tip into the glue stick and rotate it so that there is a nice heavy layer of glue on the rod tip.

4. I now use the burner to heat the tip, I also slightly reheat the glue on the rod tip if necessary.

5. With both the tip hot, as well as the glue on the rod tip hot, I will put the tip on and off the rod three times, This insures that all parts of the inside of the tip are well coated with adhesive, as well as the rod tip itself.
If during this process, I note that the tip is a bit starved for adhesive, I will add a touch more.

6. I then, put the tip back on for the final time and align it. I use a craft stick on the heated tip and roll the rod and rod tip with the craft stick pressed against the side of the rod tip to remove any excess adhesive on either the rod tip or the tip .

Since using this method, I have never had any issues at all with a loose tip and never a question, that I have sufficient adhesive on the inside of the tip top and on the tip of the rod.

Take care
Roger

I use a method similar to Roger's except I don't do his step 5.
A piece of advice I can offer is if you think your tip is not on right or straight, start over again with new glue. If you reheat the original glue on the rod tip and use that to place your tip-top back on, it loses its strength.