Alan that's a pretty tough question to be asking on a rod building forum. You've gotten the answers I suspected - we build our own because we can make the type of rod you can't get off the shelf. St. Croix is one of the few rods you'll see on the shelf that also sells the rod blanks to builders like us. I would take some of the guys help, talk to them, you'll learn a lot, they are pros..
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Jim there are lots of rods for this. If you want to go a bit cheaper blank try a 2S66MF or my buddy likes the 2S66 or 70 MLF. it has a 4-10 lb. line rating rating I also have a 3S66MF it's another great choice, again at 6-12 lb. rating a bit stiffer than the ...MLF. The ...MLF will probably throw 1/8 oz. jigs better but you'll have a bit more power with the ..MF. For your casting rod a 3C6
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Lorenzo using the micros I've found you need to keep the spacing pretty close in the first 1/3 of that type rod, then go progessively further apart towards, the butt. Layout the first few guides (4) at about 3.25" then a few(2) at 3.50, 3.75, 4.00, 4.5, 5.0 5.5 etc. Do static testing and adjust from there. You're line will touch the blank under load but it should not dip below. You may
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Jon a suggetion for you. I recently made a crankbait rod. I wasn't sure what blank would be best, I was looking at a Batson and a Castaway, both of which had good reports on this forum. So what I did was call the sponsor (vendor) in this case Swampland Tackle. I talked with Lance and he made a recommendation. He was right on. I did the same on a new MHX blank from Mudhole, again recommendatio
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This type of question does not always get a straight answer but here goes from what I've heard / experienced. RX7, MHX and SCIII are all "IM7" materials RX8, MHX HM and SCIV are all "IM8" higher modulus materials. I beleive RX8+and SCV are multimodulus materials. All are excellent products. Can't go wrong with any of them.
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No I did not cut out any of the broken area. I did use a very flexible peice of solid fiberglass for the inner plug. I figured if I didn't put this in it would give way for sure. It had had a split line running. at leat (2") on either side of the break, that's why I used a longer outer sleeve If it was a clen break I would haver shortened it up a lot and thenm I agree Tomm I probably
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Oops forgot to say It was a spinning rod. med/light - fast action 4-10 lb. line.
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I repaired a 6 1/2 ft. med/light power rod for a friend. It had broken about 18" down from the tip. The break was a split (crushed) type so I had to make the oversleeve a bit longer than I wanted,to cove it ((abut 4".) I did use and internal piece (about 3") as well I used fiberglass for both pieces and even sanded the oversleeve O.D. down quite a bit. The rod appeared to hav
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Mathew Shimano redesigned these again ???????????? They did that (2)or (3) years ago and the prices went up $50. In fact the Curado went from $119 to $199 then hey changed them last year and came out with the 200E5 and 7 at $179.
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As Bill said I don't use 5 min. epoxy where I need a good strong bond. Clean, rough up and reglue inner sleeve. At a minmum you need to wrap over the repair with thread also.
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Lorenzo, I'm not questioning your guide chuice but I also . would use a set up like Ron's. I think you need a bit larger butt guide. to smooth out the line before going into the 3's. Then position the size 5 at the distance needed to minimize the angle change. However I have noot tried using all one size micro guides the full length. ..
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St. Croix 3C68MXF would be a great casting rod.,many recommendations on this forum. Very light,, X-Fast tip w/ plenty of backbone in butt.. Very similar to the Batson 802.75
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Wes, is he looking to fish this rod or just wants you to refinish it for display purposes? If it's just for display you can do what Tom said then coat it with Helmsman Spar Urethane and retie the guides and threadw ork, finish with epoxy or the same urethane.
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The problem is you bought a Quantum ! Get a Shimano like the Curado.200. Sorry, I've always been a Shimano guy..
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I agree with Roger, you've gone this far do it all. I also typically redo all wraps so everything looks new.
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Roger do you still wrap thread and epoxy over the repaired section if mid blank or less? I've heard of using the piano wire near the tip.
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Kurt see the article in the Library above on Rod Repair. Yes you need the outer sleeve and it must be fiberglass.
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Yes, I repaired the rod as outlined in Ralph O'Quinn's article using fiberglass plug and outer sleeve. It's a must to use the fiberglass so you get a similar flex as the original blank. He broke the rod in the middle of the top section (2 pc. rod) so it was critical to get a good match. This was a St. Croix which cost a few bucks to build and the fact I don't charge him for rods meant I n
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My buddy broke yet another rod (looks like it was stepped on - crushed break pattern) and I repaired it using the standard internal plug and outer sleeve, wrapped and finished. My question is when you return a rod to the factory for "repair or replacement.", would they do this type of repair and return the rod? Or is this type of repair to "ugly" (from a marketing view
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Just a question, I've gone down to #4's on my last build (7' crankbait rod) very light and casts great. How much more can be obtained by going to #3's or #2.5's? Is it worth the increased difficulty to handle these little guys? (I thought the 4's were pretty darn small) I know that's a loaded question, just curious on your opinions. Thanks.
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Most of your (2) part epoxies bought at a hardware store are going to be fine for rod building. I used to use Duco and Lock-tite brands all the time with no problems. I've also used the industrial stuff when I used to work at a company that bought it in gallons (so I took a little). What I like about Rod Bond which IS made for rod building is it's a paste and won't drip out of a glued joint
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I don't think you need to go finer than size A. I do have some 00 which says Gudebrod on the spool and I believe this is thinner than A. Not sure if they still make it.
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I find I typically use (1) more guide when using micros. I don't like the line dipping below the blank, but touching under full load is OK to me. I build bass rods so there's no "screaming" of the drag. Just did a 7' cranking rod, used (8) 4's, (1) 5 SF and (1) 6 DF
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With the weight reduction by using the micros there is no need to worry about any extra weight Flexcoat will add. Use what you're comfortable with. Permagloss will require at least (3) coats as Richard says. On you set-up you could go #6 DF, #4 SF and then all #3's to tip, no need for more than one #4. I just built a crankbait rod with micros and went with 6 df, 5 sf, all 4's to tip and Flex
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I've never used any sealer on my cork, but am looking for something to seal in the filler. Sounds like U40 deserves a try. I did try using (1) coat of spar urethane but found it made the cork slippery.
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Matt, get a few catalogs (like Mudhole's, etc.) and look at the pictures, descriptions and applications. Or you can go the the manufacturers web site to get info. (i.e. batsonenterprises.com) The other thing to do is search this site and/or ask questions, the people here are very knowledgable and willing to give answers and opinions. Lasrtly try youtube.com and search rod building, lots of g
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When you say it was used for panfish, sunfish etc. I'm thinking it might be a "crappie" rod.
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For me personally I like a fore grip. After a few hours fishing my hand starts to hurt in between the fingers I split arount the reel foot (3 in front, 1 behind reel foot). I find myself "choking up" so my hand extends up onto the fore grip. But it is personal preference, I agree ask the customer. If these are rods for "general" sale (no specific customer) try a couple ea
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I just use a lighter to heat the stuff, it seems to melt fairly easily. Typically I put some in the tube heat and apply to rod.. Then I just use a bit of heat from the lighter if I have to adjust or remove it. No long heating required where it would effect the blank.
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My Castaway Xp3 843 crankbait rod, recommended by Lance at Swampland is now on the dryer, with finsh coat #1. Originally I felt it was a bit stiff but I can now say Lance was right on, it has more of a moderate action as he said (spec'd as Mod/Fast) and a very nice flex. I put on a #6 DF, #5 micro, #4 micros to tip and test cast it the other day. I'll do finish coat #2 tomorrow and have it r
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