It is very common to get a "crack" in the finish at the front of a guide foot. Will this allow the moisture to get in? Also I find it common for the epoxy around the tunnel to "pull away from the blank after much use. Again is this the reason moisture could get in? I coat my wraps well but have had that problem of the finish turning milky. It always goes away when dried o
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I built a similar rod (all on top) and went with #7DF, #6DF and then #5'SF's to tip with a #5 ring tip top. I wasn't quite sure I wanted to go #4's, I've only done a couple "micro" builds. but I will try them next. Make sure you use a Forhan locking wrap when tying, for extra hold.
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Similar question I asked last year. As the guys have said, I glue up my cork rings on a 1/4" threaded rod. I then remove the handle pices and put them on a 1/4" mandrel and shape on my lathe. Them ream to fit the blank. I also have been using rubberized cork rings for the butt caps. (no hole) To do this you'll need to assemble the rear grip from the end of the rod once the butt
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I've built on quite a few, have not used Batson yet. St. Croix, Pac Bay, are excellent have tried Cabela's Fish Eagle II and IM7, although didn't care for IM7 spinning, liked the casting models. I've built a few MHX (spin & cast) but they're fairly new and I need to validate them as far as durabliity. Cost and blank weight very good. It all depends on what you're looking for, i.e. du
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Let me throw in my 2 cents for you. I like them on spinning rods as I do move my hand in front of the reelseat. Usually use a 2-1/2" . On my bass casting rods I never hold the rod in front of the reelseat, so no you would not need one. Although I've not yet built a rod without one I've been making them shorter and shorter. Last rod had a 1-1/2" and have another in process. Debatin
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I went to a fly fishing show this past weekend and saw some superbly crafted bamboo rods from Rolf Baginski of Germany. I saw one rod where he used the white silk on the wraps, making it look transparent. What caughty attention initially was that I could see all the the guide feet. As I said the finish was superb - but what do you use to coat the bamboo blank? A spar varnish? Permagloss? W
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I've often wondered why this happens also, I fill the tunnels well with finish and and do go at least 1/16 past the end of the wrap. Could it be more because the finish around the tunnel area (and sometimes in front of the foot) cracks from use thus leaving an opening for moisture to get to the thread? If I put the rods in my locker on the boat it does not happen. What can be done? I
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I ordered (2) MHX blanks from them. When I received them they were broken. They had been well packaged into the heavy wall PVC pipe, however in transit someone must have throw something heavy on top (UPS?). The PVC tube was bent and both blanks broken. I called Mudhole, e-mailed a photo and (2) days later had (2) new blanks at my house.
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Scott, I also work in my basement and most of the time when I get down there it is 62 - 65 degrees. I run a space heater (some times I use both of mine) for an hour or more until the room gets to 72 degrees. I warm up my finish (flexcoat high build) by putting both bottles on the heater for about (5) min. (warm only not hot !! - you'll see that part A (black) thins outs quite a bit.). Then
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Thanks all for your comments. I did not mean to "stir things up" and this was not directed at any of the vendors. Being an Industrial Engineer and having dealt with product costing and overseas manufacturing I'm familiar with the overhead costs involved. As Phil said it's like the old 25 cents for a coke scenario. I had a pretty good supply of some of these components and just r
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I first started rod building about 25 years ago. At that time I could not afford the cost of a factory made fly rod so I bought a kit and made my own. I've been hooked building rods ever since. But what I can't understand is the increase in cost of the components these days. 75 cents for a small hookkeeper, 75 cents for a vinyl winding check, decent cork rings 1.25 each. Now I am what m
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Thanks for the info, must be the Duckett rods, yes.
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I see a lot of the guys on TV on the Bassmasters with white colored rods. Are these the Kistler "custom" micro rods? Just curious.
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I'm with Bill, I hardly ever use CP, My customers like the translucent look. (really nice in sun light) The only time I use it is when I want the color to stay the as on the spool. Not using CP will darken the thread. Metalic threads don't change color. Based on your customers input you'll have to do one of the methods suggested above. If you used size A thread an over wrap may be OK but will
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I live in Mass. and work in my cellar. Used some Helmsman the other night. For me it takes a couple days to ensure it is thoroughly dry and hard. I have used it over Krylon Fusion paint and had no problems. I let the paint ry for two days also.
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I've gotten into using the micros this year for my few customers I build for. These are everyday guys who are avid fisherman, no pros, tournament guys etc. The reactions I've had can be summed up in one word...WOW Lighter, cast farther.
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I use Fuji Alconites, black frames BYAG I beleive are the high frame and the others are single foot fly rod
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Been making a few spinning rods, mostly 6'6" med and med/lt action using the NGC method. I just want some input: I've been using a set up of (7) guides, #25, #16, #10 high frame and (4) #6 SF fly guides. This set up test casts well and has increased casting distances over the standard one guide of each size set-up. But my question is this... is going from a #6 SF to a #10 High OK?
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I'm the same has to be perfect. But ... no one has ever questioned my finish, just me.
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Tom, Ive been building rods for over 25 years as a "hobby builder" and selling to friends, co-workers, etc. I came to this site about 4 years ago. I have learned so much about methods, new techniques, products, information, etc. I thank you and everyone who has taken the time to post information and respond to my questions. ABSOLUTELY A GREAT SITE !!!!!
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Yes, assuming the blanks and rear grips are the same length. On a 6'6" spin rod I typically use a 7" rear grip whether it is a medium, medium light or medium heavy action rod blank. Therefore the reel seat location is in the same on all because the rear grip is the same length. However some guys may prefer an 8"' rear grip on the meduim heavy so in that case the reel seat loc
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I also use an order form type approach. I document what the customer wants (or thinks they do) first Then I ask questions and indicate the other things that can be done, that most customers are not familiar with, because it is a custom build. You'll find most customers don't even realize the scope of what they can customize. I build a lot for my best friend. His requirements are..."yo
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Scott you can go to the St. Croix web site and submit a question on guide sizes and spacing for that blank and they will tell you how the factory rods are built. That will give you a reference point.
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Sure do, finding the spine was the first challenge all done by hand. Wrapping the guides and kept having the thread from riding up on each other. Trim bands, well after about (10) tries finally got one to stay. Finish was easy, used lacquer, applied by my finger. Signing and writing specs was also a challenge on the rods curved surface. Things are pretty easy now but still make mistakes l
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I just finished an MB843 for a customer. I built it with 8,7 DF and (8) 5's SF to the tip all on top. The action is a bit faster than "fast" and the blank is very light. During static testing I found it to have a good "flex" like a standard fast action. Once I cast it I liked it, and got more distance with the small #5 guides (my first time going that small) too. I was ca
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My method is as follows for a standalone (5) turn trim band. - place a piece of masking tape where you want to start - place your tie off loop along side the blank and start the wrap over it as usual. - make four turns of thread over the cross over point - pack up against the tape - cut off the tag end of the main thread. - Make another turn (#5) over the crossover point, - cut main thr
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Follow-up - I built it with #8, #7 double foot and then #5 sf fly guides, but I had to use (8) of the #5s to keep the line from dipping below the blank during static testing. My spacing was: 3.5", 3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 4, 4,5, 5, 6, 7, 9 Does this sound OK? (10) guides on a 7' rod? I did test cast the set-up and in fact it did outcast a similar rod I had built a couple years ago using a #
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Building this blank for a customer (Med/Hvy, Fast action 10 -17 line) He'll be using 20-30 lb.braid and a flourocarbon leader 12 - 14 lb. test and attaching using a uni-knot. He'll be using a variety of baits from top water to spinnerbaits to plastics. I am planning on using a #10, 8, 7 double foot guides and then go to #5 (x6) single foot fly. Just wanted to know if this set-up sounds cor
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I glued it up last night as Bill advised. The rod bond wiped off easily and I cleaned the area well. I also used a little device I made with bungies to keep pressure on it. Aligned it and checked a while after gluing and still looked good. Haven't had a chance to check it today yet. Good question - why no alcohol? Although I really didn't need it, glue wiped off fine. ngies (1 ea. sid
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This is my first use of an exposed blank reel seat (casting) and I've got a question about mounting it on the blank.. Do I apply rod bond to the complete reel seat area as usual, mount reel seat and then clean the epoxy from around the "exposed opening" and the blank? Or should I only apply rod bond to "3 sides" (if you will) so the exposed opening and blank area doesn'
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