My buddy broke yet another rod (looks like it was stepped on - crushed break pattern)
and I repaired it using the standard internal plug and outer sleeve, wrapped and finished.

My question is when you return a rod to the factory for "repair or replacement.", would
they do this type of repair and return the rod?
Or is this type of repair to "ugly" (from a marketing view) and they would replace the section or blank?

Just curious as to what "repair" means.

They don't have time to enact such repairs. They'd replace the blank, perhaps for a nominal fee. Sometimes they'll replace just a section on a multi-piece rod, but the time required to fit a ferrule means that it's often less trouble on the mfg. to just ship an entire new blank.

.............

As Tom mentioned, most manufacturers will simply replace the blank or rod. A repair like you completed takes time to do right, which it sounds like you did an awesome job, and unfortunately can't bring back the original action. Did you use a piece of blank as the outer sleave?

Tight Lines and Bull's-eyes,

Get Bit Outdoors
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I'm glad to have seen this post. I am doing a repair for a friend. Broke the butt section of an 8wt fly rod. I fitted it with internally with a 6" section of a scrap blank (3" overlap at each end because of some splintering). I was just going to just wrap over the existing scar and then epoxy. Do I need to put a piece of blank over the outside as well?

Yes, I repaired the rod as outlined in Ralph O'Quinn's article using fiberglass plug and outer sleeve.
It's a must to use the fiberglass so you get a similar flex as the original blank. He broke the rod in the
middle of the top section (2 pc. rod) so it was critical to get a good match.

This was a St. Croix which cost a few bucks to build and the fact I don't charge him for rods meant I
needed to repair it for now.
I've gotten good at repairs, It came nice.

Kurt see the article in the Library above on Rod Repair.
Yes you need the outer sleeve and it must be fiberglass.

If you are repairing a section that is mid blank or less - i.e. down into the butt section, there is really no reason to use a fiberglass outer sleeve. Generally, there is so little flex in the rod in these sections during normal use, the stiffer repair section due to the graphite outer section is generally just fine.

When I am repairing above that, I also commonly use graphite outer sections, but I first chuck them in a drill and thin the sections to a relatively thin wall. The wall is still thick enough to give adequate strength for the repair, but not so thick as to affect the action of the rod.

If I am working on the very extreme end of a light action rod, I will commonly use piano wire for the internal repair section. Many times this diameter of light action rods is so thin that it is tough to find a piece of graphite blank that is thin enough to fit inside the blank, and if you do, it can really stiffen the tip. That is not the case with the right diameter of piano wire, for very thin tip sections.

Of course in thicker tip sections, then I use solid fiberglass if possible to repair it. It does a nice job of repair, but still leaves the tip flexible.

Take care
Roger

Roger do you still wrap thread and epoxy over the repaired section if mid blank or less?
I've heard of using the piano wire near the tip.

My buddy broke yet another rod

Sounds like he will be back with another repair

Educate him or charge him well if that is the way he treats his rods

Bill - willierods.com

Steve,
Unless a repair is under a rod grip, I always wrap at least the tips of the repair section. It is nice to have the comfort factor of not worring about the repair splitting out due to stress splitting the sleeve.
If I happen to have a unique blank color and want to match the blank color and especially if the oversleeve is short, I will use matching thread for the ful length of the oversleeve, simply to get a color match on the repair.
I typically don't like to do that, since it tends to stiffen the oversleeve a bit.


Roger



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/15/2011 05:18PM by roger wilson.

Well, now its a toss up. The article says use a plug and an outer sleeve. Roger's response (and another rodbuilding friend) says not necessary since its down in the butt section of a 4 pc rod. I would rather not put the outer sleeve if its not necessary for aesthetic reasons but the owner uses the rod for NY salmon fishing. Will I be open to failure if I don't out the outer sleeve on or will the inner plug be sufficient? The plug I used is a very good fit for the job from an IM6 blank.

There is a very good reason why Ralph suggests an outer sleeve of glass on a graphite rod. Standard modulus carbon fiber has roughly 4 times the modulus of elasticity or stiffness of fiber glass but stiffness increases at the third power of diameter. The larger diameter sleeve of a material that has a lower modulus gives you the best chance of the two roughly matching in terms of stiffness. The larger the mismatch in the stiffness of the two, sleeve and blank, the bigger the chance of the rod breaking again due to stress concentration.

Kurt,
I will retract my previous statement. Especially, if the rod is used for heavy duty fishing, it only makes sense to outer sleeve a butt section, even if it is under a grip.

Take care
Roger


p.s.
Emory,
Your argument is absoluty correct and right on!

You could call the maker and see if there is a warranty on it

Bill - willierods.com