Is it necessary to apply a thin coat of finsh over marbleized finish after it sets, or is the marbleized finsh good to go on its own?
Forum: rodboard

First time using permagloss on thread wraps and I love the way it 'flows' onto the wrap - perfect for a first coat. I have not used any lite-build epoxies and I'm wondering if there are any that flow as well as permagloss. What do you guys think? Also, I used NCP olive green with NCP white trim bands without colorpreserver. I was not worried about the colors darkening, however, I did not expect
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I have a rod that was built for me about ten yrs. ago. Over time the exposed blank area between guides has become very cloudy. It is a Sabre blank but that is all i know. Originally it was a nice shiney black finish, but now basically looks gray. I haven't done anything to it yet. I wasn't sure what to do. Any help would be appreciated.....thx
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Finishing up my first carbon fiber sleeved grip and looking fwd to the end result. One problem is that I can't seem to find the Helmsman Spar Urethane. Plenty of polyurethanes, just not the Helmsman Spar Urethane. Helmsman is a brand name, correct? I have also seen someone use the name 'Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane' on this site. Went to the big guys and to a West Marine thinking that since it i
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Hi everybody. I have here three blanks that I have refinished two years ago with permagloss, but the customer now returned to me because the pemagloss start to pell of in some spots, expecially on the top part of the rod when it receive much more sun exposure than the bottom (he fishes nearly 5 days per week). So, now, I have to remove all the guides and refinish all the three blanks completely.
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What are all you guys using for coating your wood handles?
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Thinking about trying permagloss on a conventional I am gonna do for my Daiwa Luna 300. I know (have read atleast) that alot of coats are required, how long between coats before you apply the next?? Also read it gels once the bottle has been opened due to humidity (got plenty of that here in South FLA) Will the 1 oz bottle be enough for the butt wrap and guides on an 8 guide rod and approx 10-12
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I just built a little U.L. Spinning rod for a friend. I thought I would try some thing new and coated the cork ring handle and fore grip with my extra epoxie. It is turning in the dryer this moment. I am wondering will this cause the grips to be too slippery? My guess is YES. Do you think I should give him one of those spring loaded grip excersise things. He will need to hang on much tight
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Hi, Happy Labor Day to all. I want to like PG for wraps on fly rods to keep weight as low as possible. But I have had problems with stripper guides becoming dislodged while being "gently" torqued. Similar torquing does not seem to bother guides finished with TM or FC. I want to use 3, maximum 4 thin coats of PG. I saw a recent thread that stated that the two part finishers p
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After some prompting from Mr. Bill Stevens I’ve started using Perma-gloss on some of my rods with really good results. I am wondering, with Perma-gloss being a hotter type chemical then epoxy. Would it be as susceptible to the same thread contaminations that epoxy is, or would it act more like color preserver in its results?
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I have a two piece blank for the first time in many years. It is a Loomis IMX 9 footer. I have read that the female ferrule should be wrapped as reinforcement and to stop splitting. What is the general consensus? I would prefer not to wrap it. Thanks Chris
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I recently saw a jungle cock cape for sale. In the description it said ".....Some splits easily repaired with lacquer". How do you effect this repair and what does it do as far as useability for inlays? Will the feather in the laquered state still conform to the small diameters of a fly rod for example? Thanks
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I am planning to use PG on a casting rod that I have finished. I assume I will need more coats than I would use on my UL spin rods so will plan on 6-8 or until a good smooth finish is built up. My problem is that with the approx. 1hr between coats I will have to do this over a couple of evenings. Will the big 18-20 hours between cause a problem, or can do? With the time constraints I really
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OK.. I finally sanded off all the old epoxy where the guides were. It left the blank dull in those areas. I applied one goat of PG and it looks pretty good but those areas are still dull. Is this normal? Should I skuff the entire blank to make it look even or will this diminish after a couple more coats of PG? If I color the PG would that help? Thanks Tommy
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What is the best way of applying Perma Gloss to a blank? In the past with other finishes (Flex Coat), I was successful in using two mixing cups with the bottom cut out and a piece of latex in between them with a pin hole in it. Drawing the blank through it left a pretty smooth finish. Perma Gloss how ever eats the latex out. Brushing Perma Gloss on with a brush is tricky and leaves brush mark
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Hello I am a newbie here and I need some expert advice. I am a big Shakespeare Wonderod fan and bought one in the 60's and used it until the airlines lost it in1992. It was a 5'8" spincast rod with a one piece shaft and had a medium action. I am still looking for that one. I did find one close to it that I will use in the meantime. It is in good shape along the whole length. I don't wan
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I have started a feather inlay using permagloss. I have now decided I want to add another feather. How long do I have to wait before I can add this one.? It has been a couple of hours since I did the first two. Lordy lordy, but that stuff is strong. I work in a small extra bedroom and wonder if I can switch to something else like color lock for the next feathers? As always thanks a bunch.
Forum: rodboard

Sorry to post this basic question but I did a search and came up with no answers. I found posts about 2-3 coats for freshwater. Rebuilt a 15-40 lbs saltwater rod. Feels more like a stick....LOL. Is 4 coats of Permagloss enough over the A threads? Obviously it'sll take a lot more strain than most freshwater rods. Thanks, Mo
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I have several rods under my belt, but was trying some new things and wanted to make sure that things would still work out. I have wrapped an underwrap with metallic thread, applied cp, and applied 3 coats permagloss. So, for the overwrap, is it OK to apply the CP over the top of the permagloss that has been applied to the underwrap? And yes, I will permagloss over the overwrap. Just wanted t
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Hello Everyone I am going to attept my first feather inlays and would like to see what methods with which products each of you have found to be successfull.Thanks in advance for your replys
Forum: rodboard

I know this has been asked many times before, but what is the best way to paint a blank? I did read “Refinishing Rod Blanks” by Ralph O’Quinn in the library. I also did a search and found some things about colored blanks (from the factory) and tinting finishes. But couldn’t find much on actually painting the blank. Maybe I am not using it right. Here is my plan to help explain. I have
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My Permagloss always sets up in the bottle, what can I do to make it last longer ? I read something about the method to put it into a can but I did't understand well how I can get it from the can to use it. Is there a faucet to install on the can? Does anyone has a photos to help me? Thanks Marco
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I watched an older VHS on rod building and noticed the guy never went off the wraps with his rod finish at all. He also stated that the finish would "wick" and going off the threads was not needed when NO color preserver was used. The threads would absorb the finish and protect the wraps just fine. Going past the wraps was not needed at all. Odd? DR
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There was a fellow who posted here for some time about using an epoxy based paint for coating guidewraps. He had a specific brand he recommended but after numerous searches I haven't been able to find any of his posts... any leads on what he was using or who the poster was so I can search by author? Thanks - just want to give it a try sometime... Chuck Ungs
Forum: rodboard

There are numerous ways to apply alignment marks, but an easy way is to use the narrow end of an embossing stylus. Just mix a little Permagloss and titanium dioxide pigment and barely touch the mixture with the stylus, apply to rod and you'll get a nice round circle on the rod. It helps to lightly buff a small area on the bare blank prior to application. On a freshly wrapped & epoxied femal
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Just getting started in rod building, first thread finish Ihave tried is P G.Realy like the way threads look with just two coats, but I dont think it will stand up to much abuse.The epoxy coatings I have seen look too thick but maybe thats what it takes to protect the thread.I'm starting out building Ice rods with St croix blanks, tennessee grips(cant wait to set the hook on some 12" pearch
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Anyone used Diamondite much? They have a really neat system that dispenses and mixes the finish at the same time, just ordered one from Mud Hole. Also ordered the Diamondite CP. Does Flex coat CP do O.K. with Diamondite finish? Any info would be great.
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When I use permagloss for feather inlays I apply LS supreme.... I generally put the LS on shortly after within a few hours, however I want to wait till I have another section, is there anyharm in that....Am I limited to 24hours here .... Additionally, anyone use threadmaster over permagloss? I am interested in someone who has been doing that for a long time. I heard dont mix different man
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Seems like I'm having a lot of problems lately with Tru-Oil grip finishes on wood/cork grips eroding in short time. Had to refinish a couple grips lately after about a year in the field. Regardless of the fact that these rods were fished super hard, it shouldn't be happening. This is sometimes happening for freshwater as well as saltwater fly rod grips. Hate to say it, but I'm now looking for an
Forum: rodboard

I understand that an initial coat of finish is required on a blank before applying a water slide decal. Oherwise, the decal will show up as a shadow underneath the final coat of finish. Sometimes a bubble or dust speck will show up in this initial coat which will require sanding out. Also, the initial coat will require roughing up with sandpaper or steel wool, etc if too much time has elapsed
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