Anyone used Diamondite much? They have a really neat system that dispenses and mixes the finish at the same time, just ordered one from Mud Hole. Also ordered the Diamondite CP. Does Flex coat CP do O.K. with Diamondite finish?
Any info would be great.

I like it. It will dry quicker than any 2-part epoxy, even without a light bulb. Put a light bulb on it, concrete within 2 hours or less. I do recommend letting it gel prior to putting the heat to it, however. Understand that it is NOT an epoxy, it is an adhesive.

1. Don't overmix it, 30-45 secs is plenty.

2. Don't pour it out in a thin layer like epoxy ... just the opposite, keep it in a deep container while using it. It is unique, rather like glue and paint - when in significant capacity ... it doesn't dry or at least not quickly at all. But spread it thin, and poof ... it quickly dries and sets. I use the small souffle cups like the FC product for mixing and applying Diamondite. The working time is about an hour, even at my shop temp of 80 degrees.

3. It is VERY clear.

4. It is VERY strong and hard.

5. It is VERY flexible.

6. You CAN apply additional coats long after the others - again, those adhesive properties kick in.

7. It does NOT contain any amines ... no sensitivity issues.

8. It cleans up with Acetone, not Denatured Alcohol.

9. It levels very well.

10. It penetrates very well.

11. It actually stays where you put it and can be applied thin or thick, pretty cool trick considering how accustomed most of us are to epoxies.

12. It WILL slice your delivery time by DAYS.

13. Always remember, 1 part activator and 2 parts base component. BTW, it isn't real picky about the ratio ... obviously, mix it in proper ratio - but it won't fry your potatoes like epoxies do when the numbers aren't right.

I am VERY impressed with the product ... I hadn't posted anything, since I am still trying various tricks with it.

I have used Flexcoat High and Low, U40 LS Supreme, Threadmaster Regular and Lite, Aftcote, etc. and so far ... it is my finish of preference for most projects.

It is recommended that you use Diamondite CP when utilizing their finish.




Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/22/2007 09:11PM by Jim Gamble.

It quick cures through the application of heat. The product comes with complete instructions. Follow them to the letter and you'll be fine.

.............

Thanks JIm,

I ordered the mixing gun and tips too. I'll post how it goes. Now we just need some rod glues with no amines too!

Thanks,
Marc

Mark look close - you will find what you need!

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Gon Fishn

Jim hit the nail on the head. great stuff- wouldn't trade it for any of the other epoxies.

Dave

Thanks for the information; I've wanted to try the diamond for a while, and am going to order some first of the week. I like the Diamondite attributes Jim mentioned.

Jim, you mentioned to clean it with acetone. Any other solvent that will work? I don't like working with acetone, but will if I have too...

Also, I don't want to buy the injector gun (does sound convenient), until I know how I like it. I was planing on buying just a sample pack. I have an extra set of new syringes, as well as mixing cups. Would those be adequate to do some tests on it?

Thanks for your help.

RON.

It will clean up with the organic cleaner that U-40 markets. I don't buy the self-mixing cartridges, I measure with syringes and mix in a Flexcoat cup with a SS spatula.

THANKS JIM;

I'm looking forward to trying the stuff. I use a lot of U-40 products, so I'm good to go.

Marc, I will be very interested to learn how your use of the cartridge gun works out...

If anyone else has tips, or experiences about applying the product, I'm sure Marc and I both would appreciate seeing them...

Thanks, RON.

A few comments -

Swifty is not a U-40 product

Both parts have low viscocity and pour easily. Yorker caps and stainless mixing spoons are very easy to use.

Do not mix with other brand finishes on the same build.

I am using it to encapsulate George Harris Pewter Pins in butt caps - cures very hard/clear and does not scratch.

I had some problems with covering waterslides due to bad edge dimpling - did not resolve.

Two threadless rods being tested using product -

I do not understand the reasons for cleaning up behind anything, with solvents, when using finish except the spot in the new shirt before the boss sees it.

I too have been using it for encapsulating items into butt caps - pewter pins, foil initials, coins, etc. I wholeheartedly agree with Bill, it is MUCH better than any other product I have tried for that purpose.

I don't use waterslides, so I can't speak on that matter. I don't have issues with peel and stick labels, but I roll them very well and seal the edges.

I am also testing threadless wraps with the product - Bill and I had talked about this earlier. This stuff is VERY hard, yet flexible. The application process is many times simpler than the PermaGloss method and best of all - no buzz ... but the jury is still out on longterm durability. Currently, things look very good.

Thanks for the good information.

Bill, I'm aware it's not a U-40 product, Jim mentioned I could clean it up with U-40 brush cleaner which I already have. Also, if it can be spilled, I can spill it. (One of my talents). I'll have to find some Yorker caps.. I didn't think of using it for inlays, that would be great.

Jim, not sure what you mean by "...best of all-- no buzz."

Can you apply it with a spatula, or is a brush better? Do you use the same methods; apply and wick excess?

Thanks for the information, I haven't been able to gleam much from the Swifty website.

You obviously haven't used PermaGloss before - it is classed somewhere between a stimulant and narcotic, that stuff will give you one heck of a buzz not to mention stinking up the whole shop.

I recommend measuring with a syringe. Diamondite can be mixed in small quantities, it isn't nearly as sensitive to ratio as epoxies. Just get some measuring syringes and drill 5/32" holes in the caps - instant syringe storage AND a perfect way to invert the bottle and draw exactly what is needed, zero mess and no chance to spill - one of the hidden talents you mentioned.

I use a brush on elongated areas and a spatula everywhere else. Do use the same application methods as usual.

I am sure that Tim is working on some new and improved instructions. Many of the folks that have tried his finish didn't have success due to the fact they were treating it like epoxy. If you can remember that it is NOT an epoxy but an adhesive and remember the different handling rules - you will very much like Diamondite thread finish for most projects.

Jim, I've used a lot of Permagloss and I would like to get away from the fumes. Also, will try (this time around) the "hole-in-the-cap" trick. Also, from the glowing reports, I think I'll up my order a bit from just a small trial size to really give it a go... Also, I'll read the instruction sheet carefully. Does anyone know what it's base is, if it's not an epoxy resin?

Thanks Again, RON.

Ron, it is an adhesive - I doubt you will get an exact formula from Swifty, but you could call Tim (see link to left) and ask him more questions. BTW, you can forget about reading the minimal instructions provided with the finish, better to use the information I have provided.

Jim, you mentioned it stays where you put it. Does it still self level like epoxy as it is rotated on drying unit, or do I really have to put it where I want it?

Thanks,
Marc

Question! Can this be buffed if it dulls (does it dull?) and has anyone used it to coat reel seats, wood, etc??

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Marc - Diamondite levels BEAUTIFULLY! It is the closest thing to a magic trick. Fabulous product and I for one am very happy to have an amine-free product that is SUPER clear with almost zero UV degradation.

Mike - I haven't had it dull at all, it has a beautiful sheen to it. I would think that it is very possible to find other applications such as you mentioned, it is pretty neat stuff. Give Bob McKamey at Custom Tackle a call ... he was running an "introductory special" on the kits when I got my first batch, call and see if he is still doing that.


marc morrone Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Jim, you mentioned it stays where you put it.
> Does it still self level like epoxy as it is
> rotated on drying unit, or do I really have to
> put it where I want it?
>
> Thanks,
> Marc






Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/23/2007 04:34PM by Jim Gamble.

Thanks Jim very much for all your help. I am moving this week, and won't be up and wrapping at my new home until later next week. I'll post how it goes.
I agree - it's nice to have an amine-free product!

Marc

OK.. I have some Diamondite sitting here, but I already used FCCP on my buttwrap. I was feeling confident with flexcoat, but after reading this thread I might try the Diamondite, Back to a piece of Marc's original ? Has anyone ever put Diamondite over Flexcoat CP?