I did my first wrap of this style this weekend and after removing the one thread from the top layer of threads, I put a quick thin coat of Permagloss over this so that I could do a tie-off wrap (trim wrap) on each end in the same evening. I was surprised to see that the Moire effect disappeared after putting this on!!! Thought I'd really messed things up now, Ollie! I waited an hour for th
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I have been reading the rodboard now for over 3 years. Most of what I have learned has been from Tom's Book(getting started) ,Rodmaker Magazine, two trips to the NorthWest gathering at Lamiglas and most of all this rodboard. When I want to try something new I do a search and the info has been there. Thank you, to Tom and all the dedicated people who answer questions on the board. I want to tint
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Can you use epoxy over permagloss? And can you use permagloss over epoxy? I am thinking that you could get the depth of the epoxy, then use the permagloss to keep the epoxy from yellowing !?!?
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I understand that when using permagloss as a thread finish it must be used lightly to prevent the "dumbells" that permagloss is obviously famous for (reading past threads). My question is WHY does permagloss do this when heavily applied or using many multiple coats? DR
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Hi. I'm just watched my last finish rod under direct sunlight. I have used gudebrod regular nylon with two coats of LS supreme high build. The threads becomes translucent and now I can see that the finish haven't completely penetrate the guides tunnels. Ok, the large part of its are fullfilled, but not all. The thing happen on all guides, and I think that it isn't a problem of a gelled finish. No
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I'am in the process of making my first threadless wrap on a 7' crappie rod with single foot guides. All was going according to plans when after 5 coats of permagloss I set the rod aside and headed for dinner. Hours later when I returned air bubbles had appeared trapped along each side of all the guide feet. What can I do to save this mess and what did I do wrong. If air bubbles don't show after
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When I glean the archives on transparent wraps, the threadless wrap with Permagloss looks to be thee top choice. I would like to attempt something transparent on a Batson XST titanium chrome blank but I'm just not comfortable using Permagloss. And I don't need it to look perfect with my nose 2" away from it but would like to have a guy standing next to me ask "What's holding the guid
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i have a fellow that wants a pink rod for his wife, does anyone sell the blanks. ihave a air brush i can paint it myself but not really sure how to refinish it after applying the paint, helpppppppppppppppppppppppppp GOD BLESS doug
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What is the best thing to use to thin epoxy. I want to thin my epoxy for the first application. I have been told to use denatured alchohol. Does this work with all brands of epoxy.
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What is the best tint to use for adding color to Perma Gloss ? Thanks in advance.
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I've gotten Tom's "drop loaded brush onto wrap and rotate rod" method down pretty good. But I would really like to reduce the amount of finish on that first coat if possible on the smaller guides of the tip sections. The second coat goes on extremely well so I'm wondering if after the first coat could I use a spatula and actually pull off as much as I can? I don't want to go back to
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This is my first experience with permagloss and I think I could use some pointers. I am attempting to recondition some fiberglass flag poles at my golf course and thought it can't be much different than working with fishing rods but my results so far are not what I had expected. Here are the steps I have taken: 1. Clean poles with TSP 2. Give a good scotchbrite treatment 3. Paint with Krylon
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I'm trying to understand the directions for the use of the Permagloss on the threadless wrap article. If I pour some Permagloss out at noon and let it stand for 2 hours, my third coat should be applied by 3:00pm providing I wait 30 minutes between coats as noted in step 12 on page 12. And step 13 refers to additional coats - 5 to 8 total - until the desired thickness, at 1/2 to 1 hour intervals.
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I've never used permagloss. I am thinking about the threadless wraps. Does permagloss yellow like some of the epoxies?
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Maybe for my next rod I'll give one of the Trondak U-40 products a try. I like the Flex Coat lite but it can be troublesome to work with. Anyone had good success with the Trondak U-40 products? Bill
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I have read the article, now A Question for maybe Ralph more than Bill, Why Perma Gloss, if it is a polymer type epoxy, is there something in it that makes it stronger than any of the other finishes and would a urethane type epoxy be stronger? Is it a weight issue, a chemical issue, I really would like to under stand the differences between all the different finishes. Last but not least, which i
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I know we've had the discussion 100 times on the problems with permagloss. One thing that is really NEEDED is a replacement for the stupid plastic cap on the glass bottle that always breaks into 15pcs with very little use. I suggested a METAL top for the bottle and a screw eye attached. This would keep the permagloss in its orginal container and the metal cap and screw eye couldn't cost the co
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Stripping guides finished with traditional finishes is no problem. Sharp knife, a bit of patience and off they come. However, have not done this with rods finished with Permagloss. It's my preferred finish but I've not stripped any. Is it any different or much more difficult? thanks, Mo
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Just curious, which finish is better to use, high build or perma gloss? What are advantages / disadvantages.Thanks for your input.
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G'day Guys, Well I've sort of rectified my previous problems with refinishing a blank. I couldn't easily get hold of Krylon Fusion so decided to use Tamiya PS paint. Its quite good stuff and is available in a wide range of colurs including metallics. I sprayed 2 coats on the blank and it turned out nicely. Last night I decided to coat with Permagloss. Unfortunately the solvent in the Permag
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I just got a @#$%& tensioner. It says with one paper washer that you get approx 4 oz of tension. It seems a little tight to me. Any opinions what tension for A Nylon? ie how many washers? Do you guys use less for Polyneon 40 compared to Gudebrod nylon?? as it seems to have a bit more stretch TIA Scott
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Can anyone fill me in on which spray-paint (store-bought) is OK for painting a blank (for example, making a black blank blue)? Any specific informatiuon would be appreciated - brand, type (acrylic, etc), and specific colours you might have had good luck with thanks Uncle Russ
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I read the artical in the Rodmaker, and just don't get the point. Everything I have learned, states that the strength of the guides come from the wraps. I know the epoxy that is used is diff from that used to coat the wraps, I know it is also stronger. I can't see it being a looks issue, and this is only my opinion, It is not appealing to my eye at all. If it is a weight issue. I can't buy that
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good morning all, i was wondering if any of ya'll could help me come up with a lint free applicator that could be used. i have had some blanks in the past that had very small rub marks or light scratches on them, and i use permagloss ( 1-2 very thin coats to give the blank its shiny new luster. the problem is even with chees cloth i sometimes get a few small pieces of lint in the finish. i reall
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Hi Guys I need some expert opinion on this, whether product gives a better finish, between U40's Dura Gloss LS Supreme and Flex Coat's High Build formula. The nice thing about the Dura Gloss is you don't have to mix it. They claim to give superior results, be gin-clear, last forever without cracking, peeling or yellowing, etc. Are they right? I've only used Flex Coat, with great results.
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Mr. O'Quinn, I tip my hat to you, sir, for the great products you have developed. I'm currently assembling the handles for three matching Spiral Bass Rods. I've chosen regular cork rings with alternating trim rings of assorted burls. After shaping the first handle I applied a single coat of Tru-Oil. I was not pleased with the dark tone it imparted to rings. After a day of considering my option
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I have built about a dozen rods over the last couple of years and did not put decals on any of them. I would like to do so now (while I can still remember the details). I would rather not mix a batch of epoxy finish (which I used for the rods) for each decal application. I only have the capacity to dry one rod at a time. Can Permagloss be used effectively for this application? If so, how man
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I tried using permagloss on my first rod building project. Unfortunately, I ran into both of the common problems that people have reported. I waited 2 hours after applying the first coat. I figured that would be plenty of time, since I live in humid central texas. Several small bubbles formed after the second layer was applied. It was applied thinly with a good sable brush. Perhaps some of
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I tried my first feather inlay this weekend. After three attempts I got them looking pretty good. but when I put my first coat of varnish over them it dried with bad brush stroaks showing on the blank. Over the inlay looks good, but the finish over the blank looks like I finger painted it. I'm assuming I can smoot it out with some very carefull use of 600 grit sand paper, but what do I need t
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My thread fininshing procedures WERE set in stone were set around the following basic concepts: 1. Only use CP when absolutely necessary. 2. Stay with few thread colors and always use sequencing from light to dark 3. NCP thread on light colors 4. Thin first coat of finish with acetone, quickly apply very thin coat & torch 5. High speed application 2 top coats finish no thinning bu
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