I am using Pro Kote for guide wraps. What is the best practice between coats. Should I wait 12 hours, 24 hours, or would a shorter time be acceptable. After about 6-8 hours it is still a bit sticky, not much, but I doubt it would sag after this amount of time. Could a second coat be applied to that, or should I wait until it is drier? Clinton
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Background is sort of a dark greyish color, letters are yellow and aqua (blue). Nice site, excellent pictures. Clinton
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Hi Tom: This raises another question I have had. Is NCP a type of thread, so that true color is the same as NCP, or is it product made by Gudebrod or some other manufacturer. Getting Gudebrod threads these days is difficult, sometimes. Clinton
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What I am fussing about at the moment is PacBay Rose color A thread (True Color ). I'll give the CP a try...should work. I'm assuming this is nylon.
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On light colored threads, when used over a black rod blank or over a darker underwrap, generally some of the underlying color comes through the lighter color thread, this affecting its color. Also, when used over a black line guide foot, the foot is generally visible, even if only ever so slightly. Is there a solid solution to this, such as using heavier thread rather than A thread? Thanks for
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Morning bILL: As I mentioned earlier, I have already order the book. Clinton
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My interest is just to read the article to see what it says and to see whether I can learn anything new. I have a pretty good idea of how to space quides for casting rods, pretty much along the lines you suggest...although I do not use a spacing chart, but I do do static testing. But again, thanks for your post. Clinton
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Thanks Bill. Clinton
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Dang!! I was hoping it was scanned and somewhere available. The article is probably only a few pages... Clinton
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Hi Tom. Do not have a copy. My subscription is newer than this. Is it obtainable anywhere? Clinton
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No, this is the article I already have.
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IN V10/#4 of the Rodmaker magazine, there is a reference to an earlier article about determining the number of guides. Is this article available anywhere, as I would like to readit. This is in the context of an article on the new guide concept. Thanks in advance. Clinton
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I am going to build a rod on the MB941 MHX. Is it better to use single or double footed guides or does it matter? One is going to be lighter but the other might be more secure, maybe. This is a spinning rod, but I also plan to build more of these rods that are going to be casting rods. Clinton
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Tom: Skip the last post. I went to Amazon and they allow you to look at the first few pages and I see that Amato is a publishing concern but that are the author. I have ordered it.
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Is Amata a publishing company or line of books or a person's name? Sorry for my confusion here.
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HI Tom. Found your publication under that title, but nothing by Amato. Oh well. Since I do not have your book, I will order it. I have a collection of these publications. I checked the Petri DVD and he cuts these threads off at the same place, without layering them in. Clinton
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Do you do this as a matter of routine...and do you put the CP on the entire wrap, regardless of how long it is? I would think you have to. In this case, I did not do that because I wanted the dolor change in the Gudebrod thread as the result of putting epoxy on them. But otherwise, this is a great precaution. Like Tom, I too have had to rewrap less elaborate wraps because some of the threads
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Do you have an exact reference to this book. I could not find it on Mud Hole or Amazon.
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Thanks. I like this suggestion. I suppose it is too late to cut back into this to rewrap. My experience is that it is better to leave things alone, as the things you notice may well go unnoticed by others. Perfection does have its price. I am thinking this suggestion through. I use tape to hold these threads while I am wrapping, so at the end, there is a mass of threads stuck to the tap
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I have just finished a butt wrap making a diamond pattern. This time I make really big diamonds, so there were a lot of wrapingss; consequently, the surface rose up significantly from the underwrap. The thing I do not like about this however, is that the wrap between the top and bottom of the diamond pattern that is put into place to hold all the threads in place has created what I call a "
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HI Jim and thanks for the comment. I am not holding any information back, so please let me know what you need to know here so you can dial in. The customer wants a 7'6" rod with a Stradic reel using 1oz lures fishing for snook and reds and bass on occasion. There are some other specifics, but this has to do with thread colors. She initially was thinking about the 4000 Stradic. Clin
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I am working with the customer on this one. She picked the reel, and I the rod; but I was having second thoughts on the rod. She does want a versatile rod so that she can do snook and reds and on occasion bass. I am sure she would come down to the 3000...but what about a slightly heavier rod? Maybe the P904-MHX. I am open to other suggestions. She did specify a 7'6" in rod. Cli
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1 oz, fishing for snook and reds. Clinton
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Bob, without the accent, it is hard to recognize you from the written word. Just joking. The 4000 touts mono line ratings of 8-12; whereas the rod is rated from 10-17. This suggests to me that a 5000 or 6000 might be more appropriate, so I just thought I would attempt to dip into other peopl's experiences. Clinton
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Is the Mud Hole MB941-MHX (cut down to 7'6") too much rod for a Stradic 4000FI? Other thoughts? Thanks, Clinton
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Should be removing guides...sorry for the typo. Clinton
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I read in a recent post mention of the proper way to remove guides, but without any specifics. I generally cut into the threads with a new razor blade just under the foot and at an angle so that I do not hit the rod and then peel off the threads and epoxy. I then scrap as much of the old epoxy off as I can. I do not worry too much about getting absolutely everything off, but it is smooth enou
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It would be interesting to see if you could get places like Costco, in my area, to print our your images. This would mean giving them the vinyl paper, and they may not be equipped to do that. But for reqular printing purposes, you can send your images online to them and they will print them for mere pennies. But since you want it on your paper you would probably have to go to them in person wi
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I did not find anything there about Fixatif. Moreover, the technical help page on that web site is not working. Clinton
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I have never used decals but am about too. Do you apply the Fixatif to the rod first, as you have described, and then apply the decal and then the rod finish, or are you saying that these coats of Fixatif go on top of the decal after it has been applied and then epoxy on top of that. Thanks. Clinton
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