Larry, thats really giving it a polish job lol! But as for me all I got is up to 5000, I think yours must have a really good shine to it! By the way how do you polish yours? Do you use water. oil or car polish or dry? Merry Christmas to you too! And to all on Rodbuilding.org.
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Can anyone tell me or suggest how I should go about buffing or polishing a tru oil coated cork handle. I got like 5 coats on it, and the fifth was my last coat, I have some water proof siliciumcarbide water proof sandpaper, from 1500 to 5000 grit, I am thinking of starting with the 3000 and go to 5000, since I don;t have any other size inbetween the 3000 and the 5000, and is wondering should I
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I don't think alcohol will expel the finish, it must be contamination of some sort, you might need to try to clean the wrap before the next coat, but I would make sure the epoxy on wrap is not sticky, or it might make a mess, I am sure you will get more responses, I'm just a beginner, but I know by experience the alcohol won't expel the finish.have a good one.
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Eric about that pinch point from a to tight winding check, I hope I am reading right, Duane is making split grips, I am wondering what type of rod he is planning to use that split grip, but what I am wondering is if a rod gets flexed down to the winding check that is on the grip, how many times does that happened or if at all, maybe I am wrong to to think that it hardly happens, but then again I
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John,Thats what i do when i get them football shaped epoxy jobs, one thing I learned to watch out for is the edges of the football, it is thinner then the middle do when you get down the epoxy a bit you have to watch out for the edges, the thread can be easily scuffed and ruined it happened to me a couple of times, when I get down that far I turn the popsickle stick on it side and carefully sand
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Thanks, I jsut put teh 2nd coat, now i am wondering if I should of or not, I plan to buff it it up with wet n dry sand paper, from 1500, up to 5000, I read that thats what gives it a smooth shinier look, I am open to any comments on this plan of mine thyanks agian!
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Sounds great Karen, I just want to tell you thanks for the free hook keeper, took me awhile to figure it out on how to wrap it lol!, but I finally got it wrapped, it looks great! first time I used one of those, Have a good one!
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I searched the topic on tru oil, but I did not find the answer I was looking for, ? is on extra coats will it make the cork darker? Its probably a an easier answer then I think, but if anyone can give me an answer I will appreciated it, Have a good one.
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Jim, thats why I choose to do the KR for all of my next rods, until something better comes up! Who Knows! Its a great concept, Thanks to who ever came up with this one.One thing though I still cannot figure out is how they get the spacing on the butt guide and the ones up till the choke point, but how ever they did it it works really good! I keep testing it on the straight edge of a board with th
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It looks like it will be just fine, the line flows nicely through the whole rod, I will have to keep track on the spacing n this one for the next. Thanks.
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Will do, I don't think I have a choice. Thanks again!
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Ok, I moved right on the edge of the ferrule, and the ring of the guide is 1/2 inch more, form 28 and a half to 29", should I just leave it there, or should I move all the others up also? Thanks for the input!
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I am following a GPS placement for KLH guides on a 7' 4wt fly rod 2 pcs, that I am building into a spinning rod , I have the measurements as follows, for the 27x method I have, the 16 size KLH at 16.73....", and the guide size 8 at 23.50..." and the size 5.5 at 28.50...", now the 5.5 is right at the place where the 2 pieces come together, the ? is, do I move the 5.5 size guide up a
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could it be where the pieces fit together, I nhad a rod that did that I found out it was where the pieces fitted together. I just put a piece of tape to the male part and it stopped, I still got to figure a better waysinse the tape will not last long.
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I have built so far about 5 or more light rods from a 2wt fly rod into a spinning rod, to a med light, I never built on the spine just on the straightest axis, and I know like 2 of them the lighter ones I just built them without even checking the spine or the straightest axis, and they are just really nice to fish with. Just though I would out this in here, have a good one!
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I had one that did'nt fit, it was way too tight, so I noticed the rod had a finish of some sort on it so I took the lightest sandpaper I had and carefully sanded off the finish I don't know if I sanded anymore then that, but a good look at it through the magnifiers, and it looked like it was just the finish, and the tip went right on, a little tight but it fit.
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look like scratches to me, if they were cracks they would have looked deeper, just my input, but it looks good enough to me! Have a good one!
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Micheal, that sounds just about right to me, about the size of the reel and how far you put the butt guide, to me though the runnings which are size 5, that comes with the microwave guide, I would probably like to get them down to a size 4 or maybe even smaller, like size 3, but I would have to test each one to see if they would flow through as flowing as the size 5, I really have no clue, as of
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I would like to try the Microwave out myself, but the running guides I would have to buy separately, as for Micheal's comment on the,"... it would be less sensitive to reel dimensions line types and test and lure weights/styles then conventional systems..", my ? is what do you mean by less sensitive and how could that be, is it because of the dramatic change in the micro guide? Just won
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Nice blank Todd, too bad for me they don't have it the 2 piece. I am planning to travel and am going to start to build 2 piece rods one each for each application I fish mostly.Hard to find. Have a good one.
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I always get the guide to where it is facing me, then wrap the thread, It never loses tension if you keep the thread tight while wrapping it around the foot, or like Bill wrote place your finger on the thread. Tight wraps!
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Nevermind I found it, Thanks for the info Dave, I've decided to go the way U described.
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Dave, I've been trying to find the tru oil sealer, but cannot find it, is it the conditioner that they sell, or does it say sealer. hope to hear from U,asap.
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So, tru oil does leave it slick. and so does Trondak cork seal, I don't know how much slicker the Trondak is to the Tru Oil, I guess the only way to find out is to get both and try it on 2 different cork rings. Or I can just leave it with out and have it all natural look. but cleaning will be a lot easier with the cork seal thats the only reason I have used it on the other cork handles.Have good
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I just finished a cork handle, and would like to know if anyone can tell me on how much will it darken the cork? I am hoping not to much, I have the cork sealer but I don't really like the slick feeling it has. Hope to hear from you.
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Hello Maryann, If you want to get rid of some I am always looking for a deal,lol! Now that I am getting a whole lot better on applying epoxy high or lite formula, just let me know in an email good luck!
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I am too pretty new at this Randolph, and at 51, I am glad also that I am learning something new, all these years I have wondered how they did all that, now thanks to Rodbuilding.org I know a lot more then just wondering lol! So many more rod building years for you and all who enjoy rodbuilding.
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May you have a lot more years ahead of you , God bless you! 69!
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Phil, I woulsd, but in the past week I already spended a lot of cash on this stuff, all I got is a few more rings to split and cut, next builds I will certainly get one. Tight wraps!
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Thanks Roger, I found the saw on one of the sites you had, Thanks Phil for the tip, I probably will get one, 2 broke already, so I will order one as soon as these are used up.
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