Jon - Yes, you have it down = boil until all the backing is darkened; peel off backing & apply the veneer (it will be HOT on your fingers). You may find it helpful to reheat the veneer with a heat gun on mid-temp setting if the veneer doesn't conform easily. Do not overly worry about cracking of the veneer as it will be virtually unnoticeable once the epoxy is applied. Definitely overw
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I THINK that is the same material that Kevin uses / sells.
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Yes, but he's pretty busy building rods and fishing tournaments.
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Phil = Some video of spiral wrapped Black Hole tuna rods in action (as well as conventional wrapped rods)
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Best bet is to follow this article to set them:
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Barry & Baz Take a look at orthodontic dental bands. They come in lots of sizes; stretch & hold those little buggers really well.
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Thank you ... a shoppin' I will go
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Photos of a rod in the latest issue of RodMaker center fold built by Nuno Paulino shows a what looks like an uplocking ergonomic reel seat. Anyone know who the maker of this reel seat is?
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IMO forget "spine" and build on the straightest axis. Roger has given you the quickest way to find that side. The "spine" of a rod is not a continuous affect but will (most often) change depending upon where along the length a rod is flexed. As I recall Don Morton demonstrated that at an early RodExpo in Charlotte.
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Try Johnny at Angler's Roost. Just be sure to check the OD of your blank and the ID of the gold reel seats he has.
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Thanks Jeff I appreciate the information and added comments on application. Your approach in terms of product is very similar to the way bamboo rods were refinished many years ago at the end of the season. Since the owners didn't have dipping tubes many applied light coats of various combinations of gunstock type finishes. It's a good approach as long as you have the time to allow the sticks t
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Jeff - What is / are your preferred materials? Always learning here
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I would scuff the blank while the guides are off & re finish with outdoor wipe on polyurethane (gloss)
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Whoops... my bad.
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You can make your own using scrap rod blanks with virtually any taper and length you'd care for. Best to use either solid glass or stiff graphite blanks. Different grits of sand/emory paper are available in 1/2 to 3/4 inch strips. Smear the blank with two part epoxy and wrap the paper around it keeping a gap of about 1/4 inch to allow dust to exit. You'll have to secure the ends of the paper
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Remove as much as possible using NO chemical agents. Rotate; remove finish' rotate 90 degrees remove finish. GENTLY wipe the wraps with a hard plastic surface (edge of an old credit card works)... GENTLY as you don't want to move any threads if possible - if you do you should be able to nudge them back in place. GENTLY dab the wraps with a tack cloth (not paper towels) Clearly if you applied a
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Wrap them and take them fishing. Your choice on using the same guides or not. If the guides are not damaged use them. "Dated" doesn't mean "bad". In many ways heavy trolling rods IMHO work baits better than high concentrate graphite blanks and are more forgiving at the rail if a large fish makes a final run as they will absorb the shock.
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I know lots of people who "flame" their finish. Some use alcohol lamps; some use butane cigarette lighters; a few use hand held butane torches; others use various types of electric heat guns or small scrapbooking heat guns (lower temp; medium air flow). I admit that I've used them all at one time or another. Is it necessary - no if you mix the components well, are working in an area
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Capt Craig - This is exactly what I'm going to do (reds on the flats). Rainshadow IM902, AmTak Air Wave guides; Okuma ABF-30b loaded with 20lb braid and a floro topshot.
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Andrew The best way I know to do this is to try & remove only the thread. To do that warm the epoxy over the thread wraps GENTLY then cut the thread across the top of the guide foot - start about half way through the wrap band and slice TOWARD the guide support leg (which will save your blank and perhaps a finger slice). Slowly peel away the cut segment & you should be able to find a
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Thank you both for the input. I've been using Samurai braid (20 & 30lb test) which is very supple, thin & shoots through the guides well = but as a fisherman I always have to try new things "just because".
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Thank you both for the input. I've been using Samurai braid (20 & 30lb test) which is very supple, thin & shoots through the guides well = but as a fisherman I always have to try new things "just because".
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Gary Using fly line is an excellent idea. I don't know why I never thought of it. Great tip
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Has anyone tried the Ameican Tackle "Bushido" braid and / or Florocarbon line?
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If it's warm outside (above 80 degrees) set it in a sunny spot. Will probably take an hour to return to original condition.
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Lightly warm the finish. I run a razor blade across the top of the guide foot. Peel away where it is cut. Find a "tag end" of the wrap and pull to unwind the thread. I use a credit card to remove any excess finish from the blank.
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Quick note - I saw them advertised in RodMaker. Bought two 24 rod models & I love them. They are very stable & well padded.
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Here's a link to their web site... "Partners" show no US distributor
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I used to cut up slices of surgical tubing (and still have some left around) but, like Roger I changed over to orthodontic ligature bands. They come in many sizes, eliminate the time cutting the surgical tubing and are all the same width (in each dimension). Big time saver - and can be found on line almost as cheap as a length of good quality tubing.
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So ... a mere $250.00 later & now waiting for the blanks to arrive. Likely I'll put AmTak Airwaves on one or more of them as well as AmTak comfort grip 17mm spinning reel seats. I'll shorten the barrel 1/2 - 3/4" & bury the lock down nut under some cork rings for added comfort since one or more of these will see 100+ casts over the course of 2-3 hours of top water plug casting.
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