a-shopping I will go! I'll find the RFLE and I did see the sale event from Schneiders YIPPEE. LOU - I took no offense. I understand stock conservancy and do everything I can to return fish in healthy conditions whenever possible. Again THANK YOU t o everyone for the information. Most appreciated as it will save me lots of sorting out "almost what I wanted"
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Thank you all. I will order up the AmTak CB72 and look for both the Rainshadow blanks (903 843) if I can find them. If not I'll go with these Revelation (RX7's): REVIP70ML 7' 6-12 LB 1/8-3/8 OZ .390 5.0 ML REVIP70M 7' 8-14 LB 1/4-5/8 OZ .480 5.5 M And maybe this one as well: REVS72ML 7'2" 6-12 LB 1/8-3/8 OZ .445 5.0 FAST ML Lou - yes, these are smallish fi
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I'm looking for a "fast" to "extra fast" (yes, very subjective) 7' to 7'3" blank with a line rating of 4-10 or thereabout; capable of lure weight of 1/8 to 5/8 oz for tossing topwater plugs to stripers & red fish. I've got a couple of Bushido spin-jig blanks at 6'9" but would like one a little longer. I know I can extend the Bushido - and I have extended one
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PacBay (from their web page): READY FORM GRIPS Step into the future of rod design with ReadyForm Rigid-Core Rod Grips. These ready to install grips feature a pre-shaped, rigid, urethane foam core covered with a thin layer of our soft finish coating. These grip shapes are also available as unfinished cores, giving the rod builder the option of appying carbon fiber, shrink tube, or a custom
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I think it mainly depends on the finished look you want to achieve. Generally speaking NCP is not as strong (tensile strength) however the difference is minimal when wrapped on a guide. NCP also has a tendency to loosen up (go a tad slack) if coated with CP after a wrap is completed. NCP gives the "flattest" look and, when size A is wrapped & packed well it will look like paint o
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i use them all the time with 2-3' of fluorocarbon tippet. Very easy to cast and "lay out" better for me than mono which tends to curl especially when wound back onto the reel.
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Thomas - Nice write up and explanation. Thank you
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Chuck = When you've finished the builds please post the results = what you like and dislike about each. Nothing disparaging more like "I like this about the ______" and "I like this about the ______"
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I just built one using American Tackle TTRLLT 5 tube with a 6 ring. As Roger said it doesn't look out of place at all.
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David - Can you email me off line with a better idea of what you have? Maybe we can work a deal that is suitable to both of us...
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I think one of the first rods I made was a Fenwick HMG that I gave to my dad - circa 1978. It was a lovely rod & fished very well. However as others have posted technology has overtaken them.
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Look at the MHX 905. That will take care of his flounder needs ... if he hooks a 100lb fish he will likely lose it because it sounds like he's fishing wrecks and the fish will wrap him up OR ... if he is skilled, knows his reel & drag and is fishing on a private boat he just may bring the fish in.
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Personally I don't care for them. I much prefer a triangle foregrip as the grip seats nicely in the crook of the fingers. Not sure who offers them now. I got a bunch from Merrick Tackle before they went out of business. Possible MudHole has some since they bought up Merrick's inventory.
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You're right - nowhere to be found. You'll probably have to go to Hopkins & Holloway (UK) to get one or maybe find a local machinist. It is unique
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Once you fish a spiral wrapped rod you will wonder why this has taken so long to sink in and not become "the norm" for any heavy application casting or trolling rod
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Will - I would keep looking at different blanks before I took the step of cutting the blank. You will change the "action" and the "feel" if you cut it. There are lots of manufacturers and distributors
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Hold the flame to the SIDE (not directly under the wrap) .. Yes, you are probably correct that you are over heating the finish making it very thin which is releasing bubbles trapped in the weave of the thread.
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I've changed out the elastic bands on mine to those used for girl's pony tails. They still will break over time but they're really cheap and unless two fail simultaneously the chuck will continue to operate. I did look on line and found that Par has been granted both an international patent and a US patent so I was wondering what the hold up is in bringing these to market.
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Yes indeed it was Par .... I was just wondering if anyone had heard from him or his partner. I sure would like more of those chucks
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MINIMUM 24 hours and better 48 for that many layers
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A couple of years ago two gentlemen from Scandinavia displayed a very nice, infinitely adjustable (small diameter) rod chuck. They were kind enough to give me one as a "demo" model. I know they were interested in hitting the US market in a rather big way and were discussing the possibilities with a few vendors/wholesalers (MudHole, Batson Enterprises, American Tackle come to mind).
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Set them so you can read the name stamped on the frame from the reel (looking up the rod toward the tip)
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You could do this by hand using a fly tying bobbin. Since you say you will only be doing this once or twice that would be the absolute cheapest solution
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I find 2 is sufficient
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Winthrop are the best there are (IMO) - but pretty pricey. All American rollers are probably the best dollar - to quality out there
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I think the "bible" (starting point) for many builders was Dale Clemens' book "Custom Rod Thread Art". You can probably find one in your local library or on AMAZON
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Thanks Roger for adding to the thread & providing info on the VERY thin "noodle" blanks. I don't build those at all
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I like AftCoat ... But I have used many. They all work. It's more a matter of what you get used to using regularly
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You're welcome. The more they overlap the more control you will have - especially on thin blanks
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Lower two offset and overlapping - top roller drop down between the two lower rollers. That will allow you to better control thin tip sections. Here's a photo from the Library:
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