There's a pretty good YOUTUBE video on line if you are interested - query "wonder weaver" & it should come up. Not a simple task
Forum: rodboard

There's a pretty good YOUTUBE video on line if you are interested - query "wonder weaver" & it should come up. Not a simple task
Forum: rodboard

Yes, metallic (nylon core) will work. Just keep away from "metalized" or "holographic" as those are likely to not be thread at all.
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David - Not really that difficult. Build up a 'thread ramp" from the foregrip as far out as you like on the rod blank (toward the tip). You can overwrap several layers of thread (even put in some nice trim bands) - when done epoxy just like a guide. You don't have to repeatedly cut the thread - you can "wrap it backwards" == just like a mistaken overwrap on a guide.
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Thanks for the video. A good instructional video is more difficult to make than people think. A good one requires lots of editing and "do overs": choosing good contrasting thread colors (and blank color); lighting; camera angle; fingers in the way; backing off mistakes; (audio dubs if wanted). You did a good job on this.
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A 'little trick" - remove the guides where the twist is. Grab momma's steam iron & set it at a medium setting. Put the rod on a padded hard surface (a couple of folds of a pillow case over a hard surface will do. Run the steam iron over the cane until it is limber (NOT noodle-like). pull the padding out from under & use the hard surface to flatten the strips. Less chance of
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Yes - the wrapper "out of the box" will turn cork rings with little problem. However - if you stabilize it (anchor it to a bench or onto 2x6's) and buy the ALPS chuck the machine will run smoother and truer. Ensuring "dead center" is, in my opinion, the most critical procedure. I have also used this machine to turn stabilized wood and acrylics - you just have to slow down by
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To my knowledge he is the only person that will speak with you over the phone and explain - in detail - how this printer works and what can be done with it. Just SUPER support ... from before purchase explaining all aspects through sale and post sale.
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Yes, I am VERY happy here. Good weather and great people
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New Bern, NC on Trent/Neuse rivers = Zero... just a day of intermittent heavy rain
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Bill - I did look on the RAINSHADOW web site & would have recommended that blank as I own 3 myself and love them.
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Brittan - Yes I have built 2 on the 166-F5. The only "problem" was with the length as they are one piece blanks. If you give Lamiglas a call or speak with Todd Vivian at Mudhole they may be able to help you out. The CTS and the Century blanks are both fantastic, I have not built on either of them as they are pretty pricey once you get into the length and terminal tackle weigh
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Either of these should work for you = I think Mudhole carries them. Lamiglas Fiberglass Surf Rod Blank SB166-5F-@#$%& 13'8" | 6 - 16 oz. | 1 Piece | 13.0 Tip | 1.32 Butt | Black Spiral Finish $243.00 Lamiglas SB160-4M-B Fiberglass Surf Rod Blank 13'6" | 6 - 12 oz. | 1 Piece | 14.0 Tip | 1.2 Butt | Black Finish $171.00
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Definitely agree with Roger on the use (non use) of a lamp mounted magnifier. The edges blur out of focus and the bulbs/lamps used are, for me way too dim.
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these are listed (3000k)
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As has already been mentioned " LIGHT" - lots of it especially as you age lighting becomes a critical factor. Over heads at 6500k - LED's if you can afford them if not then "daylight flouros" coupled with task lighting. I did the 'task lighting' with simple desk lamps ..... here's an interesting article on light & age: AND here's a source for you. Simple enough
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The center wheel should NOT align with the other two. The offset provides stability / tension on the track.
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Walter unhide your email & I'll send you some info off-line
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I think you will have little success using reeds to fashion a decent fishing rod as the wall thickness of reeds is very thin and the stalks lack dense longitudinal fibers. However 1/ you have nothing to loose and 2/ we could all learn something through your attempt
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Yes this will work - especially if you plan on only doing a little / few handles in cork or foam (hypalon). If you are planning to use a mandrel this will also work but you'll have to consider the diameter of the mandrel & plan on building up smaller / thinner mandrels so they clamp tightly in the jaws. Of equal concern for you will be to adequately support the piece being turned & anch
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'Double down' on Capt Neil's post. I too started with repairs (fixing & rebuilding my own rods). I know I learned more from repairing rods than building 'scratch up'. I got to see first hand all the things that, for one reason or another, just didn't work - as well as those that did. As others have posted - find a local rod builder of some repute - someone who has already put in the time
Forum: rodboard

'Double down' on Capt Neil's post. I too started with repairs (fixing & rebuilding my own rods). I know I learned more from repairing rods than building 'scratch up'. I got to see first hand all the things that, for one reason or another, just didn't work - as well as those that did. As others have posted - find a local rod builder of some repute - someone who has already put in the time
Forum: rodboard

I have two old "green heart" rods. One is complete butt to tip wood and the other is wood for the butt & mid section and an Indian bamboo tip. Both cast well - but they will definitely wear you out after an hour or so.
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I agree completely with Michael - I bought one at the Expo last year from Black Hole USA & should have bought two - yes, they are that good made from sturdy aluminum with padded rests & angled board at the bottom. I just looked at their site & don't see them listed.
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I opted for open wire clothes racks (Lowes / Home Depot / etc). I bought 2 of the wider widths at 8 feet in length (they also have wider spacing between each row). I mounted one at 4 inches above the floor and the second at 5 feet above the floor. These allow me to separate blanks by length and "action" (or if you prefer "heavy", "medium", "light" ) as w
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I much prefer RECOIL guides from REC. You will pay more for them - but you will be happier with them longer as they are a titanium (non-rust) alloy
Forum: rodboard

You can pretty easily make any color twist you want by twisting together 2 or 3 size A threads... or you can be adventurous and twist together 3 or 4 double 0 silk threads. If you have a power wrapper this is a pretty simple task. Tape the ends of the thread to the "fingers" on your wrapper put your hand 8 inches or so away. With the wrapper set a a medium speed you will get what
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Rick - can you please also send to me via email?
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Agree - Roger is the most knowledgeable person on this forum regarding "build your own"
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Unsanded Conolon rod blanks ...... I have several that I bought in Delaware both sanded but unfinished and unsanded. Conolon shut down in 1982. Here's a little 'background info'
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