Hmm - yeah I like the idea of 'holographic look' flames that Steve recommended.
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Do not overlook RECOIL guides. No rings, no rust.
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Copperhead
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Like Rich - I would build with Carboloy guides / tip and for all the reasons he has given
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I like Anglers Workshop - good selection / good quality
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There is a saying in Russian " I'm not so rich that I can afford to buy cheap stuff " . If you think at any time you MAY decide to turn something harder or mor resilient than cork (like wood or acrylic) go ahead and invest in a decent mini wood lathe. Roger (above) has given you several to check out. IMHO ANY of them is way better than trying to adapt one tool (variable speed drill)
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Bob - It can be done IF you don't mind doing "patches" of flock in different colors. Apply glue in a random pattern (thin to medium strips & put down first color & allow to tack up; apply random pattern of glue & allow to tack & apply second color. Do that as many times as you want. Painful, multistep process but it can be done with DANJER flocking.
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Guides wrapped on rod. I apply CP in a "drenching coat" (dripping wet / remove excess after 30 / 45 seconds while rod is rotating). After the first coat has completely dried (could be as long as 24hrs) you should be able to tell if a second coat will be needed. I've found that unless the threads are very light (white / yellow) a second coat is normally not needed --- but a second coa
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Following up "I feel like I know what is supposed to happen, but it's more a matter of, what do I do with my fingers? How do I tension this thread while not letting this other thread slip? While wrapping with one color, the other is spiraling around the blank, is there a way to prevent that (so I don't have to waste time circling the spool back around? How do I go about switching spools
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Randy - Way up at the top the suggestions were: Dale Clemens' book Custom Thread Art - this was (as far as I know the first fairly comprehensive book on custom thread art) Billy Vivona followed up with his pamphlet / soft cover book. David Boyle produced Visual Wrap - a software / disc approach that allows you to do a step - by - step set up and change colors to develop a pattern.
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Yes - it is good for that use because it is low tack and won't disturb wraps but not for anchoring anything.
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For me that low stick / easy release painters tape is a nightmare anywhere it's used to build a fishing rod. Adhering guides; as surface for decorative wraps = JUST DOESN'T work well at all
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You most likely will not need to remove ALL the cork. Bits and pieces of remaining cork will provide additional surface area for the glue and new rings.
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If you go with the orthodontic bands I've found that putting one on the opposite side of the foot helps hold the guide from slipping out from under the wraps = So - one over the guide foot and one in front of the ring.
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If you want to tension the tread itself you have a couple of options = 1/ remove the pins that are on the thread carriage & replace with longer screws; put the thead spool on; drop on a washer then a 'beehive spring' another washer and back to back wing nuts (face the first 'wing' against the washer); 2/ find a couple of rare earth magnets with the same or slightly larger inside diameter &am
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I've used JT Metallic thread for a long time on wraps. It's a little thinner than size A but is limp and strong. Robison - Anton is nice to work with.
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Yes - that will definitely help you keep everything squared up.
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If "at the location of the reel seat" means that the reel seat will be over the crack then go ahead and make up the rod the reel seat/arbors/glue will be strong enough to reinforce the break. If it is above where the reel seat will cover the crack BUT under where a fore grip will cover it then bind with thread and use a "solid" fore grip - that is NOT EVA. A cork fore grip/g
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Like Phil - Tite Bond III works well for me on cork & wood surfaces
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Some will undoubtedly point you to TOS (Taper Off-set Spacing) as your solution. Personally I subscribe to Steve Paterson's method. Simply put if you are careful in measuring the distance between the cross-over points the diameter of the rod makes no difference. The diameter of the thread doesn't change (unless you apply more/less tension) and the distance doesn't change therefore the same num
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At one ICRBE show in Charlotte Don Morton had a tool / did a demonstration at his booth that demonstrated that the "spine" of a rod actually changes over the length of the rod which means that what you are measuring is not an absolute "hard" spine but rather an average. I've been looking for a video showing this but haven't found one (yet). Tommy I will agree with you when
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From above: "Still too easy to be dismissive It's an uncomfortable truth but most factory made rods are not aligned and people; having spent masses on them over the years, are not going to be happy about them having possibly non-optimised performance And what tests have been done to measure casting accuracy and durability.. please tell me.. The fact is that many rods cast horribly wh
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Better to straighten the cane. Easy to do especially if the guides are not on it. Warm the bamboo over boiling hot water until it is flexible (it will surprise you how flexible it gets without braking the bonds between strips). Once warm roll evenly on a flat surface - granite counter tops are great for this since they cool the bamboo at the same time as straightening. Once the bamboo has c
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For anyone interested. I spoke with my friend who told me the rod will stay in Florida therefore a 2 piece "works" I decided to go with the new American Tackle Bushido 2 piece 9 foot 12 wt BF9012-2 as a good compromise on casting efficiency and cost of the blank ... and since I'm a blank hoarder I just had to have one for myself. Thanks to Don at American Tackle = always nice to ch
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Bob = Thanks but no thanks. I have many old bamboo trolling rods, surf rods, casting rods, spinning rods, fly rods .... so many that I can't even show off the best / nicest of them or use them as much as I should. Having said that like women and shoes - there's always one more that 'goes with this outfit' LOL
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I'm going to go with the 9' 12wt. The rod is a give-away & will mostly be used for casting to tarpon so that's the route I'll go. If I had more time to get this done I'd probably break down and make a rod splitting bamboo & fabricating it for him. I'd just be 'flying blind" on a taper - not a lot of info out there on heavier wt / short bamboo fly rods (who woulda thought!).
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Thank you all - I will look for a 9' 12wt 3 or 4 piece (since he has told me he wants to travel with this rod). Also many thanks for steering me away from the two-handers. Now to start calling the suppliers! Looking on line I'm not seeing (m)any 9' 12 wt 3 or 4 piece blanks... the search continues
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Thanks Herb - much appreciated. I don't think I would have gone up to a 16 but certainly understand keeping the rod short from a leverage point of view
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Looking for information from anyone who has experience or first hand knowledge on fly rodding tarpon (primarily sight casting to larger fish) and sailfish (brought up with teasers) in Florida or anywhere else. What would you recommend for fly rod Wt and Length? If you have suggestions on a specific blank that's fine but not critical. Would to keep to a single handed rod or go to a spey typ
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Darrel Not sure exactly what you are looking for. American Tackle; PacBay; MudHole; any Batson distributor will sell you one of their extruded aluminum tracks. AmTak & Pac Bay share the same design. Any sewing machine motor will serve you well as a power source for wrapping - one with a rheostat in line and a foot pedal is much preferred. IMHO the chuck and drive wheels are the most
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