I never recommend, especially to a novice just starting out turning to use allthread as a mandrel. They are very soft, flexable, and an excellent way to have an accident and get hurt. Even more so with using a jacobs chuck in the headstock and a live center in the tailstock. Since this is a wood lathe, I would also be interested on how one proceeds to machine the jaws concentric to the lathe
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Definitely the Quote of the month from Mark. Well Stated
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Literally thousands of years of experience by people on here, and someone new to the craft says we all do not know what we are doing . I guess we should all refer customers to him, as he is the only one who knows and has the correct knowledge to make a perfect build, because he paid a lot to learn it. LOL. In all reality I think we have been infiltrated by a troll who is just trying to stir t
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My biggest takaway from this post, is someone wasted an awful lot of time and money on this craft to be so closed minded. But in over 50 years of doing this, I must say that I have encounters a lot of strange and different scenario regarding rod building
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And here all along, i thought this was a post on knicker twisting!!
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I am more concerned with what exactly makes you a professionally trained rod builder!!
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Personally I would opt for tumbling in an application such as you are needing
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If you want totally clear use Fishawk or YLI 212 Natural
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PacBay Arctos 10'9" 3wt 4pc
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My 4wt builds get 1/0 Snake guides.
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Check the Axis Outdoors site, and it will direct you to the dealers who handle it
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What type, spin, etc?
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Unhide your email
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I have both a 7'6" 3 and a 4 wt that I build on, and they definitely do not even come close to putting a strain on the bank account
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I use a Jewelers saw
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I would go with a 12, then either an 8 or a 6, and 1/0's the rest of the way out.
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Black nickel is just that, not black. Nor are the seats black, they are a black nickel plated
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The only lineup needed on glueing up the front hood, is make sure the reel foot recess in it is to the bottom of the view you want want exposed and viewable. Also take caution to not get any excess glue in the receiver area
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Remember, I believe when you get down to the 4 and under minima's they are the W for wide foot, and I do not care for them on the narrow tip sections, since the foot is wider that the tip in some applications
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A 1/0 will be more than suitable for that build. If 2/0 were suitable for a 4 and 5wt by such an accomplished and well known and respected person such as Tom Morgan, then I feel quite sure that 1/0 will work
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First thing I would do is cut that 2" down to not more than 1/4" larger than the seat insert is going to be. Usless to spend the time removing all that excess material. I have a dedicated blank drilling chuck for my lathe, so I bore first, then transfer to a mandrel and complete the turning process
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It would kind of help if what type of build you were interested in constructing
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Check out the Ameriglass blanks by McFarland that Anglers Workshop carries
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I would use a skeleton style seat with no insert at all, and the tiger wrap directly on the blank
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You have to calculate the thickness of the wrap and the finish, the turn the insert the appropriate amount undersize and then proceed with the wrapping
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1/0 lite wire running guides are more than adequate for a build like that
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So contact those people and ask them. Tom pretty much answered it in a nutshell.
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You also have to take into consideration the thickness of the thread for saturation, also the amount that is sitting in the tunnel or voids between the thread, guide, and blank
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The 25's and 26's are .740 and .812 OD respectively
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Michael Sutheimer Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I agree in keeping a rod as light as possible . > But if the rod is out of balance it will take more > force to hold the tip up. For me it is less > fatiguing to have a heavier rod just pulling down > equally on all my muscles in my wrist and arm, > opposed to having to flex only select mu
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