CA is way too brittle of a finish. It will as you have discovered develop cracks and fissures, leading to the induction of moisture and eventually begin discoloring as well as lifting off of the insert. It is not waterproof, nor is it UV resistant. I do well over a 1000 inserts a year, and they are all dipped in spar urethane for longevity. And yes the insert offerings do make a difference.
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OK, now I understand. If a casting or spinning rod, The accuracy is totally dependind upon the rod and not the person controlling the rod. Still leaves me a bit puzzled when I throw side arm or underhand instead is directly in plane with the spine
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Scientific Anglers offers several versions of 13 14 and 15wt lines
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That could be pretty much defined under species and water and usage
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To start with if this build is using a recessed hood style seat, If you have properly arbored the seat, it will automatically center the back end of the grip. While I do not recommend it totally if overly large between the rear of the grip and the blank even with minimal arboring as you slide the grip down to meet the seat, the excess glue is most likely going to fill and compensate for any void
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I prefer to have my fighting butts built directly on the butt of the rod, for both safety as well as security. Nothing worse that unscrewing the butt setting it down never to be seen again. Most upper end fly seats will come with a finish or transition ring to accomplish an almost seamless look between the seat and the fighting butt.
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A properly designed fly seat will not work for a spinning reel, although the opposite is true on the fly reel fitting some spinning seats as the tolorances are not as critical
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I believe the reasoning behind the 32", us that most peoples reach will not extend beyond that when stripping. Thus creating more of a universal fit across the spectrum. I personally in all that I have build, have never set one beyond 30" and never encontered any issues
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I use a lot of dyed, and doubled dyed woods in my reel seat skeletons that I do
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Unfinished
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Mark, if you would check, you would see where he is using an upgraded gear motor, and nothing like the small synchronous motors like most of the dryer motors are
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No thru hole in any of mine. The thru hole is in the butt grip to the closest oversize to the butt OD, then the rubberized cork securely glued to it, installed on the lathe and turned to shape. The mandrel is generally long enough to reach thru to the rubberized, the one can actually use a flange style nut to make the transition from the rubberized to the live center to keep it secure when turni
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When I want quality in an Agate guide, nothing surpasses Joe Arguello or Struble
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Herb Ladenheim Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > David > I use a brass tube cutter that is alightly larger > than the blank's butt - because the blank will > have to fit halfway into the butt cap. > If you don't do that you will shear off the butt > cap when you have a big fish on and you put > pressure on the butt. > Been there - do
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When using the rubberized, I have never had the need to use a plug. I just glue the rubberized to the bored material, whether it be cork, acrylic or wood. then throw on a mandrel and turn to desired shape
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The same goes for the tip top sizing. I am quite sure that your request for the sized is selected based on the blank specs and not actually measuring it physically. Tips do vary based on the paint etc. On cannot expect the customer service rep to get up and go out to its warehouse location and pull your blank and measure the size on your particular blank. The specs are generally listed for th
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Bill Sidney Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If a new blank you should be able to replace the > broken section , an yes many broken rods have been > repaired , you will change the dynamiics of the > blank , but the fish will not the differance , > saying that , what section of the blank got > broken ?? the thinner the section the more
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Its called legal as well as moral issues.
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Use a skeleton style seat with a teal insert. We do them all the time
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He is not talking about turning it into a spin rod from what I intrepret, he wants to know if it is acceptable to use a std tube style seat on a fly rod
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Roger, he is talking G4 Rod finish, not epoxy glue
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Maybe refer back to this.
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The 24V motor is activated by an internal transformer that converts 110 to 24V. So if you are 220 at your location then you need a converter from 220 to 110.
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Get a seat with a smaller OD hood
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While I have several of both, I find myself using the dial type when I do all of my turning, and the digital style when just using for a fixed measurement
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Actually, it will make the act softer overall. All guides, whether single or double footed, will soften a rod to some degree as the weight they add has a greater effect on rod efficiency than does any stiffening that does occur between the guide feet.
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The more guides you use the slower it will become
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I use 9. A 10, 2, and 7 1/0's
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Roger, I am quite well aware of the procedure, but this is a novice, and may not want to dive into spending excessive amounts of money just to calibrate a lathe, which as far as cork or inserts a small amount of runout is more than acceptable. It is not precision machining he is attempting to acheive.
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