He stated that he wanted to remove it without damaging it or the blank
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That used to be Lynn Williams with Backlash Tools
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If the Butt OD is .430, then the .438 bore ID is what you want. The closest bore oversize to the blank is always the best
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I have built that blank and was really surprised over the performance of it compared to the Quickline. ERN came in at 6.35 with an AA of 75
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Take the belt off and take something like a hair tye and loop around one wing nut, then the rod and then to the other wing nut. If not enought tension, tie a knot in the hair tye
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There are currently no red available in the Lemke line
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Yep and all of those are in a gaseous state, not a liquid state like the alcohol burners. You are also not too likely to accidently knock over your stove, water heater, furnace, or dryer
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Well stated Chad
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And Roger's comment is one of the main reasons to not use it, a virtually non visable flame which has caused many accidents.
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Those are one of the most dangerous items related to rod building
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Your forgot two of the most vital accessories. A good face shield or goggles, as well as some sort of mask or breathing apparatus
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We use the Lemke Concepts for all those types of builds
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Just built a 10'3' 6wt, and it is very true to spec. All that have cast it have been pretty amazed at its performance
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Scott Strength Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thank you all for the suggestions. Would be a > lot easier if I had a rod building shop close. Not really, you can take 10 different builders and can come up with 10 different build configurations
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I would definitely not overlook the 10'3" PacBay Arctos
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I apply at 200 RPM, and with the slip clutch there is no issue with stopping the rod during the application process to address the tunnels
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I do a considerable number of reel seat inserts and grips a year, and also found out as Mark did the downfall of using it, Initial outcome looks great, but ends up being very shor lived. CA is hard and brittle, subject to cracking with moisture seeping thru the cracks and ruining them. My process has gone to dipping with Marine spar urethane. It is both UV protectant and allows for enough flex,
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I most definitely would probably not put lite wire guides on an 8wt. What are you trying to accomplish.
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I have neve had a line damaged by the lite wire guides, whether a high or low end line.
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I have repaired a fair number of the REC NiTi snakes that hav pulled out on one side. Never had it happen on a Snake Brand lite wire, and they are all I use generally
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I am pretty close to Bills, a #8 stripper, then a 2, then 1/0 the rest of the way out. I would start with 7 and static test with the option of going with an 8th guide
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All of the Quickline's that I have built have come out considerably higher on the ERN that the advertised line weight. Most performed considerably better when overlined by at least 1 wt over advertised specs. The last 10' 5wt Czech nymphing one I built was a slug with a 5wt line on it, but really came alive with a heavy 6 on it, and customer throws a 7 on it
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The 10'3 6wt Arcton on my bench currently is ded on with the CCS coming in at a 6.35 ERN and an AA of 75
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The KR will not choke any quicker than the MicroWave. The MicroWave start the choke right at the first guide
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As a comparison, of identical spec'd inserts, the corn cob weighs in a 6.7g and the stabilized wood is 8.6g
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While not the color you are after, try the PacBay Arctos, they have a 9'3" 7wt and if it is ahything like their 6wt. it is fast
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Dial or digital is primarily going to be up to the particular individuals taste. As far as pricing, even the cheaper ones are going to be sufficient, this is rod building and not precision machining. If it has to be that precise, then I suggest you go with a set of micrometers and pin guages.
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I have several of each, but tend to use the dial type a lot more than the digital, especially when it comes to lathe work
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The softer the wood is. the more subsceptable to expansion and contraction from the elements. Also finish is a critical item based on penetration of water compounding the issue.
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