If you want to keep the color of the thread as it was put on, then CP will be needed. You will have to use some means of getting epoxy into the tunnels. Do a search on here and you should find many ways of filling the tunnels. I use a metal pick I have for working with feathers that works real well. You dip the pick into the epoxy and get a small drop on the end, then slip it into the tunnel
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That is not going to work. You would have to find another blank that is big enough to slip over the blank you have and fit up properly. Though I think that would not be the easiest of things to accomplish. You would be better off getting a blank that is already set up as a telescopic handle.
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From what I saw up at the St Croix factory, they were thinning the first coat and it penetrated the guide threads better and they got a smooth thin coat. Then the second coat was applied and they didn't have to worry about air bubbles hardly at all.
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I use one motor at 200 rpm to apply the epoxy, then when that is complete, I switch it to my dryer which is 4 rpm. 2.5 rpm should be fine and have to agree if you are getting sagging, then you have too much epoxy on. I use to try and keep up with the sagging while drying to get only one coat on the guides, but have found I get a much better finish with using 2 thin layers and I do not have to w
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Also with Decal Connection, you can send him your logo if you have one and have that be part of the decal as well. They just need a file for the logo so they can do what they need with it to make it work on the decal.
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You can also get in touch with Loomis and tell them the rod you have, they will send you the guide you need.
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One thing, the epoxy doesn't do anything but cover up the thread to protect it. As long as there is enough epoxy on there should not be any problems with water getting in. As for the cracking around the guides, preparing them correctly will make all the difference and make sure your thread tension is good. Knew of one person that had problems because his thread was loose and he thought the epo
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I am sure there will be several ways given for this and if you do a search, you will also find many ways. I do the same as Larry. I get them close when wrapping them and then adjust them afterwards, sighting down the blank. I am not really sure there is a way to get them exactly all in line.
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I use to use one thick coat and had no problems except for the bubbles sometimes. I started putting on a thin coat just enough to soak the threads and seal everything and then another coat to finish it all off. I seem to get a better finish on the guides with 2 coats and have less problems with bubbles.
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The way I was told, you spine each section. The starting with the tip and next section, put them together on the marks for the spine, and then spine them together. You may hav to adjust the 2 pieces to get them spined correctly. from there ad the next piece and keep working till you have the rod spined.
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Yes they are the same. I have both reels and the spools work for either.
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Was at a seminar where Don morton had 10 blanks made that were suppose to be all the same. Just to show what differences there is in the blanks, he had the blank held only by th tip section. The butt ends all varied in their positions. I don't think there was any 2 that were the same.
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I just started using the 200 rpm motor assembly from Flex Coat to apply my epoxy, and what a difference the rpm's make. I use to use a 4 rpm motor and the edges looked lousy. With the rod spinning faster, it makes it so much easier to get avery nice straight edge. Also it seems I am getting a much nicer looking finish on my guides when first applying it using the faster motor. I can get a ver
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When I went through the St Croix factory, they just had seperate mandrels for each section of the blank. After it was all baked and such, each section went through a sanding process to the the blank to the correct size. I also believe there was an extra piece of the graphite and such in the area of the ferrule. During the sanding process, the blanks were measured with a digital laser micromete
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I have my best results with Brillance. You have to let this one dry a bit longer, but have never had a problem with it.
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The epoxy does nothing for the strength, it only protects the threads. Your thread wrapping is what holds the guides onto the blank. If the threads or completed covered with what you have done so far, then I would say you have enough epoxy on.
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I have not done any inlay with plants or flowers, but the only thing I can think of when pressing them, doing it on a round bar of some type to simulate the rod blank. Think this would make it easier to get them to lie on the blank better to secure them in place.
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I use a craft heat air gun to help soften the old epoxy before I cut it off. If I am going to be putting the new guides right back in the same locations of the old guides, then I carefully scrape off as much of the old epoxy off to get as smooth of a surface as I can. Then rewrap the new guides. For me, this sometimes means the guide wrap might be a bit longer to cover up the old wrap area.
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On my first split grip, I used around 2.5" at the reelseat and about the same on the butt end. The butt end is not a problem, as the split grip was mostly to take weight out of the handle, and I rarely use a second hand when casting this rod, which I use for crankbaits for bass. But I did find out I needed to make the length behind the reelseat longer for my hand. I know use at least 4&qu
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I think that first guide size should be sized depending on the placement of the guide on the rod and the straight line path of the line from the reel center as is described in the new guides concept in the library and not by spool size. I would say look at that article for guide placement. The ony thing I did hear about that reel, watch out for your knuckles. WIth the bigger spool, means a big
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Go to Jann's on the left colum. They carry that guide. When you select rod building and guides, look under the single foot guides.
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What seems to work for me, I forget about using the reel itself to locate the intersection point of the line to the blank. What I do is put the rod in the 90 degree bend position and find the location that the bend starts on the blank. This is where I locate the first smallest guide from the reel. Then I lay out the rest of the guides to the tip making sure I have the correct spacing. Then I
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If you use the blue tape used for painting, it does not seem to leave any of the glue on the cork.
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I just use the blue masking tape. Wrap it around the cork a few times.
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You might want to look at purchasing a handle kit from St Croix for their pistal grip. I have not been able to find just the rear portion of that kit, but for one of my customers, I have used 2 of these to convert rods and he loves them. The St Croix handle is much wider than other pistol grips I have seen and he likes it because it doesn't take much to keep the handle in his hand while casting
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Scott, Just to let you know what Sean gave you there was the completed rod part number. The blank would be 5C66MHF. That would be a very nice rod, or the 4C66MHF. Depends on the money thats to be spent for it.
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I currently use a 4 rpm motor. But I am going to be using 2 different speeds here soon. I will stick to my slow rpm for letting the rod finish turning. I will be going to a faster rpm for applying the epoxy. For getting the epoxy on and spread out on the guides and butt wraps, I like the faster rpm for that. Then after it is applied, I will put the rod on the slower rpm motor to finish. Als
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Thanks for the suggestions. Will be looking into the possibilities I have.
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It is waterproof and does not take that much time to setup. Mostly I let my handles setup overnight anyway. I use enough pressure so I can make sure glue presses out of all the joints. I was once told to compress the cork about 1/8 of an inch when clamping them. If the handle is going to be 7" long, when clamped, you should measure 6-7/8" between the clamps.
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I am looking to do a feather inlay on the split portion of the rear handle on a rod. The thread colors are black, white, greys and silver metalic. Was wondering what would be a good feather/s to use that would match these colors. Right now allI have is a pheasant skin but would like to use something else.
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