You can get vinyl decals through Decal Connection. Thats where I get mine made at. They have another company that does the decals that is in assciation with them.
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If you use NCP thread then there is no need for the use of CP. But standard nylon thread will need CP to keep its color. The only place you need to make sure that the epoxy penetrates the thread would be for guides. For thread under a decal, it would not make any difference that I know of if the epoxy penetrated the threads completely or not.
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Myself, I use double foot guides for the transition in the spiral wrap. Only reason I keep with double foot guides is they hold up better if the rod gets stepped on while it is on the deck of the boat. After that though I use all single foot guides.
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The only thing that I know that causes the fisheyes is something on the thread. Even oil from your fingers will casue problems.
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I am just finishing a rod with a carbon fiber handle, and I used Corian and turned an endcap for it. I use a hole saw and cut out rings from the sheets of Corian I have and then I take the drill out of the hole saw and cut out just a disk. I found a glue from Woodcraft that is meant for solid surface materials and glue up the pieces on the end of a mandrel and then clamp them till the glue drie
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Doesn't GUSA have colored blanks?
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I have used the graphite rings on a carbon fiber handle before. What I do is slip a thin piece of rubber between the handle and the ring oppoiste of the reel. I use mine for bass fishing mostly, but in season of fishing, I have not had the rings slip loose at all.
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Rich, Was wondering where you get your plastic lure bodies from. I use to be able to get a small shallow diver from Jann's Netcraft, but they no longer will sell it in the unpainted version. I need to find another source if possible and have not been able to come up with any as of yet.
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I would say to send the blank back myself. I have completed several telescoping rods and have not had an issue with the blank fitting correctly. I would suggest asking whoever you got the blank from to check on the fitup of the pieces before they send out the blank to you.
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I completed a rod this year from St Croix that should fill those requirements 4F907.4 I really like this rod, was my first fly rod I made.
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Well you know that it will hook enough people into buying the rod with the claims being made.
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well for the Penn State one, it looks like there is a bolt on the base of the tool rest to allow it to pivot. Not sure about the one I posted. I just cam across it and thought it might be usefull for someone. Myself I use a Jet mini lathe right now.
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For those of you wanting to do some wood turning but not wanting the cost of a lathe, I came across this the other day. Might be the answer for some for getting started in wood turning.
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Check out this lamp. For lamps that I have used, it has the best bulb I have seen or worked with. You get a very true white light.
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I use the FlexCoat 200 rpm motor and slip chuck they have and I love it. You can really get the epoxy on quickly and then wick off the extra afterwards. After applying the epoxy the rod is moved to a slow 4 rpm dryer. But for applying the epoxy, 200 rpms works great.
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I am not sure all what a Grizzly hobby lathe can handle, but if you wanted to get into turning wood handles or turning of other items in wood, I would think the Jet lathe, which is the one I have, would be the better tool to have. I have been getting into turning all sorts of things other than things for fishing rods. I really like my Jet lathe. The only thing I would do differently is get the
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Myself I have just epoxied in lead weights into the rod blank. I have found lead weights that are round in the cross section and are different lengths for the weight needed. I finish up the rod except the butt capp and then work out how much weight I want to add. Then epoxy the weights in and finish with the butt cap. Another way would be to get the balance kits that Bass Pro or Cabelea's has
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For the rods I spiral wrap for bass fishing, I use double foot guides for the transition from top to bottom and then use single foot guides out to the tip. The single foot guide will weigh less than the double foot guide once it is all wrapped. The reason for using the double foot guides for the transition, alot of bass tournament guys are very hard on their rods and the double foot guides hold
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To get rings that thin, I would think going with gasket material would be a better solution. I have heard of many guys using that and it can be found in many different colors.
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For myself I use Brilliance which is a water based CP and have always liked it the best. It may take longer to dry, but to me I feel I get a better penetration into the threads with it because it does take longer to dry. I don't always use CP but if I do, I prefere the water based ones.
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If you do a search on this topic, I am sure you would find it has been discussed before. You do not want it so tight that you can not move the guides to be able to line them up.
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I just use the scrap pieces of thread.
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PSI did have others that they were selling at a discount. One other place would be Woodcraft. They have a Nova chuck that is on sale for $99.99 right now online.
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One of my first questions would be why do you need to high stick the rod. You do not have the rod in the best postion for putting pressure on the fish when the rod is so high up.
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I have the same issues, big fingers and trying to work with those small guides. I end up splitting the 1/4" wide tape into thinner strips and use it. I can usually get it to hold the guide well enough in place and then start to get some thread over the foot. Once I have enough thread on the foot, I can take off the tape. Even with the thin strip of tape, it can be a hassle wrapping them,
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The material used for chairs would be very similar. I have made a couple of caned chair seats before. You have to soak the cane in water to make it pliable to work with it. The chair cane is the shape of a flattened oval.
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You do not have to match the taper of the blank perfectly when reaming out the cork. The best setup that I have seen is using the Flexcoat abrasive strip and gluing it onto a rod blank. Custom Tackle I think now has a kit using the abrasive to make reamers.
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The titebond II or III is great for gluing your rings to each other. But for gluing the rings to the blank itself, I don't think you would want to use anything other than epoxy or Rod Bond. I have seen with Gorilla glue, if you don't have things perfectly clamped, you end up with glue lines between the cork rings.
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I used blue dunn on a StCroix fly rod I made, was really a very nice look to it
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I got several different size 10" long brad point drills at Woodcraft for what I use myself.
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