The only time I had this happen to one of my rods was when I didn't bring the epoxy past the thread and onto the blank. Water was able to get inside and cause this look.
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I know all the wrapping is done outside the factory by local wrappers. Not sure if St Croix makes them prep the guide feet or not. But these guys are payed on how quickly they can wrap the rods and get them back to the factory. The faster they get them done, the more they can do and the money they can make. If you find the service and warranty page on the St Croix site, you will find their
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I like using the adapta caps with the syringes, no mess at all.
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If you are buying a blank that has a telescopic handle, the pieces both come with the blank, but are loose from each other. You can mount your handle and reelseat on the short section then slip the rest of the blank through the handle to finish off the rod. Just make sure you do not put your butt cap on before you slip the blank through the handle, bad experience there for myself.
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Look at the photos section and look under equipment and tools. There are a few different chucks that could be used for this. I think Cabelas even has one that uses rubberbands that should be able to mount to the motor you have.
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For me, I like putting the feathers right on the thread myself after putting a coat of CP on. I like using the water based CP's just because you have more time to work with the feathers before things set up. Also makes it easier to remove the feathers if you don't like how your design is turning out.
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I have used the product Goo Gone to remove adhesive without doing any damage to the finish. This stuff works great for any kind of adhesive removal off of many types of surfaces.
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The only thing is with that setup, you do not have the part that is in the rod. You will have to come up with the threaded insert portion that is mounted on the end of the handle.
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My wife makes them for me as needed. Most of the rods I make are 1 piece rods, so the rod sock is very simple to make. Choose the material you want, cut out the pattern, sew it up and then turn it inside out, add a small bit of ribbon to tie up the end. Only takes my wife a short time before one is complete.
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What I do is wrap a small band of thread, usually about 1/2" long. Then I cut the threads and feather them out some so they do not show up under the thread I wrap over them. I just make that first band of thread at a little tighter tension just to make sure threads dont shift on me.
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There are alot of motors out there. I got mine from Mc Master Carr, a 4 rpm gearmotor. Been running strong for several years now.
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I measure the blank at the location I plan on having the reelseat at. Measure where you expect the exposed portion of the reelseat will be. After measuring, I get the reelseat that is the size smaller than what I measured. This way I can ream it out to fit the blank just right.
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Just curious, was there a particular one you got at all?
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I believe the blank for that rod is the 4C68MXF and I built one of them and love it. I use the rod for pitching small jigs and worms for bass. I also use it for throwing a spinnerbait. What I like is that it has a very fast soft tip and it allows to get a roll cast or pitch under things with ease. I just hope I can get some more of these blanks sometime soon. Only reason I got the first one
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Any of them would be ok. Myself, I have been going down to size 6 fly guides on my running guides so I would also use a 6 tip.
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I use the same tools as I do with wood. What I have done is this. I cut 3 rings of corian with a hole saw on my drill press. The material I have for corian is 1/2" up to 3/4" thick scrap from a cabinet maker. The hole saw I use is a 1-1/2" dia and that leaves you with a ring that is close to 1-1/4" dia. One of the rings I do not use the center drill bit on the hole saw.
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I think everyone that has used Decal Connection has had the same kind of experience. Just last week, I put in an order on Monday for a single decal, before the end of the week, I havd the decal in my hands. Great service all the time.
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What I end up doing for the ends of the tubes is either use wood or corian and turn an end cap. I have some black corian I just used for a casting handle I am making for a rod right now. Will try and post some pictures of the handle here.
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How I was taught, you start by finding the spine in each piece first. Then starting with the tip and the next piece, assemble them with the spines in line of each other. Check for the spine in those 2 pieces. If it doesn't feel like it is right, you may have to twist the 2 pieces a bit till you get a good spine found. Keep working your way down till you get all of the rod assembled. I just d
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I have been using the carbon fiber tubing some for casting and spinning handles. I just did a 10 rear grip handle, I used 3 graphite arbors leaving around 3-1/2 between them. I like having this space between the arbors, makes for a sound chamber and it really amplifies any bite you get up through the handle. I also only use 3 arbors for a Tenn. handle up to 14" long. From what I have see
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I don't think you need to go to the St Croix SCV's for a great blank. The SCIV's will do you just fine. As for myself, I do not see the need to go to the high end G Loomis blanks when others out there will do just as well and cost less. I have to agree with Bill on a couple of those Shikari blanks as well, they make a fine blank.
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here would be my suggestions. 1. St Croix SCIV 4C68MXF. I love this blank for pitching small worms and jigs 2. I would probably use one of the St Croix blanks in that same series but in a medium light power with a fast tip. The one I would pick is actually listed under their casting blanks 4C69MLXF. 3. For this one I would go to the ST Croix SCIII series. Depending on the line size, t
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I use the same thing and it works great for me. Also use the same thing for my airbrushing of lures to collect the overspray. Found out with using it for my lathe, take the shop vac to the filter and clean up the dust off of it and your good to go again.
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When mounting it on the arbors, leave space between them. It creates a sound chamber that really amplifies the bites. For the Tenn handles I have made, which were like 12" long or so, I used 3 arbors, 1 on each end and 1 in the middle.
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I am sure it would work, but I would think the picture would not last very long and fade pretty quickly, just my opinion.
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Rich, Try looking for a store for wood working. Might have luck with that. Around here in Illinois, the Ace Hardware has it and also Woodcraft stores. You can order it from Woodcraft online. The only other chain store that I saw that had it was Lowes.
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I would bet that you would not be able to get one of their blanks to build on. Many of the companies that make a finished rod and do make their own blanks, will not let you buy just their blank.
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Bass fisherman are known to have many rods out on the front deck of their bass boat in a day of fishing. Most of my rods made are for bass fishermen and I spiral them to the handle side. Alot of bass fishermen are hard on their rods and anything I can do to keep the rods in good shape helps. With the guides going to the handle side, the rod itself will lie better on the front deck with the gui
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Custom tackle Supply has some tape type that works real well. Check with Bob there to see what he has.
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I am not sure what the difference is, but I use the Alconote guides mostly for my rods and I just use the smallest I can get away with . You should be able for that rod go down to #6 fly guides for most of the rod and work your way up to the reel. For the reelseat, you could use a skeleton reelseat and make or purchase a cork insert. To me that would be about the lightest you could get for the
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