I have been doing black with silver metalic inlay bands and have not had a problem with the silver showing through the black thread.
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No cp is needed for black thread. Cp is really needed for light colored threads if you want them to stay the color they are.
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Custom Tackle Supply has the jigs you want. A fine tooth back cutting saw will work.
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What I have done when this has happened for me, put the blank in the position of a 90 deg bend. At the point where the blank starts to make its curve, I put the intersection guide at that location.
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I am not talking about the ring material. But a series of guides called SAC.
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Just was wondering though are these a saltwater guide series? I can not seem to find any info on this guide. Would like to know more about it.
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Have someone asking about Fuji SAC guides. Does any one know who might carry these?
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I can not say anything about the blanks mentioned, have not used any of those. But for myself I like a fast tip on a flipping rod and stay with medium/heavy to heavy blank. Number of guide could vary depending if you are doing it conventional or spiral wrapped. Most of mine that I have made a 16 would be the biggest guide I have used. I spiral wrap all of mine and for the most part I have use
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Best place, Decal Connection, link on the left.
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Karel, You would be supprised that 10 guides would not be too much for that rod. I was shown I believe an 8 foot rod once that had 16 guides on it. People who saw it also thought there were too many guides on it until they tried casting the rod. It performed wonderfully. I know for myself, I try to make the line angle as close to 180 as possible. With using smaller lighter guides, adding
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You are correct in looking at the anglethe line forms as it enters and leaves the guide. You want to have this be as close to 180 as possible. The smaller the angle gets, the more pressure that is put on that guide trying to pull it off the blank.
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St Croix has a blank 3C610MHF that is 6-10 full length. Shikari has a couple of blanks, MB 692-X and IMB 692-X, both are 6-9 full length. Sure these would be under 6' when retracted. The Shikari blanks are considered pitchin blanks.
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They slide up and down the handle and you can put the reel anywhere you want to on it. The handle is just a staright piece of cork or graphite tube. They will stay in place on a cork handle, but for a graphite tube handle, I had to place a small piece of rubber inside the ring opposite the reel foot to get them from slipping. If you look for an example, search for Tennessee handles.
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When I bought my Adapta caps, I also bought syringes from the place I got the caps. I used alcohol to clean them and have not had a problem with them at all.
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When you find the spine, the guides go pn the outside of the curve. Thats how I set up my guides for spinning rods and would be the same for fly rods.
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One thing you can get and is inexspensive are the adapta caps. Just another item to try for this situation.
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I have use Koa wood for the first wood handle I made, but also made it a split rear handle, so weight was about the same as cork I would say, maybe a bit heavier, but hard to tell the difference. I think if you make the rear portion of the handle split, then most woods would be ok to use and not add much weight to the rod. As far as rounding a 2 x 2 piece of stock, if all you do is round of
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The Tennessee handles using the graphite tubing I believe are more sensative that ones with cork. I really like how the one I made turned out. I do use the sliding rings to attach my reel, but found out I need to add a small piece of rubber inside the ring opposite of the reel for the rings to hold in place on the tube. Without the rubber, the rings will not stay in place and hold on the reel.
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I like using the mandrels for my handles. I use my Jet lathe for shaping them and you do not have to worry about supporting a long rod. I use a mandrel that is closest to the rod blank diameter at the smallest diameter the handle will cover. This way I only have a small bit of cork to ream out. Just make sure you coat the mandrel with wax before you put the rings on or you will not get the ha
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Myself, I have taken lead weights and epoxied them into the end of the blank.
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I have reamed them out to where there is hardly any of the material left.
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For what I do, I will start with either a 12 or 16 double foot guide on top, depending on what works best for the reel I am using. Most of my spiral wraps are for bass rods. Then I use 3 other double foot guides to get to the bottom of the blank. Most of the time what works for me is 12, 10, 10 and 8 in double foot guides to make the transition. If I had to use a 16 first, then the setup has
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Myself I have had nothing but great service with them. I have had items b/o, but have received them promptly after they had them on hand.
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No problems at all, it will work just fine as Hank says. Depending on the length of the rod, you may or may not get all the transition guides on the butt section of the rod. For the couple I have done, I was able to get them all on the butt section and the tip section we all guides on the bottom of the blank.
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I use the Daylight lamps. You would not believe how well those lights work for getting a true white light. I have the table top model with a magnifying glass attachment. Have not had to use the magnifying glass yet, but will be needing to start using it sometime soon I think.
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You will also see guys using rods that are 7 foot long or more depending how they are fishing for the crappie. Alot of times if they are just flipping the jigs into cover, they are using the longer rods. They are not actually casting the lures that much, most of the line is hanging down and it is just a simple pitch into the cover so the longer rod works for this and makes it easier to pull the
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You can place them directly on the blank if you wish to, nothing wrong with that.
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Just was wondering if anyone might now if there is a guide series with IFS in the name. I have someone asking about these guides not sure if it is correct, but they are suppose to be a saltwater guide. Just curious if anyone might know about them. Thanks Mike
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Well, first waht do you mean by foul proof guides. Second, it is always important to keep the line off the blank for whatever line is being used. The lind should not ever touch the blank.
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I use the graphite arbors and use a 2 part epoxy with a cure time of 90 minutes. Have just got some Rod Bond, going to try that next to see how it goes.
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