Humidity plays no role in the cure time of epoxy. Temperature does. At room temperature, the rod should be safe to use in about 3 days. I wouldn't use it before then, even though the finish may seem well set. It will still be soft enough that water, fingers, etc., can leave marks and dull or cloud the finish. If you put the rod in an area with higher temperatures, say above 85F, you may s
Forum: rodboard

There are pros and cons to any guide type you select. I don't think ceramics are heavy, provided you size them wisely. I use them on 3-weight rods and can keep the whole set up as light as if I had used snake guides. You shouldn't have to use very large guides on your 5-weight rod so I don't think weight is going to be much of an issue. The Recoils are very nice guides, if you can stand
Forum: rodboard

I would be happy to take a photo and put it on the photo page if you need it. But is your carriage the current Renzetti style with individual spool tensioners, or the older type where the thread passes between steel plates for the tension? I'd need to know which one you have. ...................
Forum: rodboard

PermaGloss was actually designed as a bamboo blank and wrap coating. Few builders know this, but Ralph O'Quinn was a bamboo rod maker at one time. He developed PermaGloss because he wanted a lifetime finish on his bamboo and his silk wraps. ..................
Forum: rodboard

I was assuming, incorrectly perhaps, that he was referring to uncovered EVA, or cork with X-wrap. If you put X-wrap on both, the hardness isn't going to vary by much. ...........
Forum: rodboard

It's not a treasure, at least not in monetary terms. Old boat rods like that are common. They do make nice wall decorations and some fix them up and put them back into service. Hardly any are sold for a fortune, let alone more than a few dollars. ...............
Forum: rodboard

Cork and flock. Even lighter would be foam and flock. There are some types of EVA that are reasonably light, but none I'm aware of that is going to be as light as cork with anywhere near the same rigidity. ................
Forum: rodboard

If you do that, make sure the cushion the blank tip with masking tape - it's quite easy to crush a tip with the pressure from the chuck jaws. .................
Forum: rodboard

Epoxy is not considered to provide the "right" look for traditional bamboo rods (it can be made to look like varnish, however). Tru-Oil can be used to finish cane, but it is not the preferred product. Most cane rods are varnished by dipping or brushing. ..............
Forum: rodboard

..........
Forum: rodboard

When I do a search under your name I get 620 results: ............
Forum: rodboard

I would use high frame dbl foot guides for the butt and transition guides and low frame casting dbl foot guides for the choker and running guides. .....................
Forum: rodboard

I should add that the Common Cents Frequency component adds the measurement for speed, which many people confuse with action. Action is where the rod initially flexes, while speed is the relative rate at which a rod reacts and recovers. .........
Forum: rodboard

The person who posted that doesn't really understand it . He also assumes that there is an AFTMA system for rating rods - there is no such thing (The AFTMA system if for lines, only). He also doesn't understand rod action when he says that you cannot make a fast action rod from fiberglass. Heck, you can make a fast action rod from hickory, just as easy as you can make a very slow action rod from
Forum: rodboard

Cork is easy to ream. I'd use a regular hand held reamer for that task. You can save yourself a good deal of work by boring your rings before you glue them up on the mandrel. Take them to size just under what they need to be for the location they will reside in on the blank. That way, once you take them off the mandrel only a small amount of final reaming needs to be done. ................
Forum: rodboard

I'm not aware of anything that can describe a blank better than the CCS - if you know of something, please pass it along. As far as I know, it's the only completely relative and objective system for measuring blank power, action and speed that exists. The 66LF is going to be more what you're after, but it won't be an exact match. ..............
Forum: rodboard

You won't have any problem if you just snugly insert the scrap piece. There's no reason to forcefully jam it in there, just use enough pressure so that it won't slip while turning in the dryer. You'll be fine. ............
Forum: rodboard

Read the online article here on the New Guide Concept. It's in the online library and I think you'll find it very helpful. It will size and locate the guides for you. ..................
Forum: rodboard

Volume 11 #5. ..............
Forum: rodboard

Since your hand is not holding the seat, the diameter isn't of much concern. If the smaller seat will hold the reel securely, I'd use that one. ....................
Forum: rodboard

Everything the guys have told you here is great but I'll add one thing - I assume your "research" has been limited to searching on the internet. I would highly recommend you arm yourself with good information in the form of one of the excellent rod building books or DVDs. The Flex Coat DVD "How We Do It" would give you a real head start on getting that first rod built with go
Forum: rodboard

You will probably have to back down a bit on the St. Croix then. It's going to be at least as powerful as the SJ721. ............
Forum: rodboard

Getting your user name and password correct are the key. ............
Forum: rodboard

I haven't run the CCS numbers on the 2 blanks (Loomis SB782 and Croix 4S66MLF) and won't get a chance to do so this week, but I can tell you that they're very similar in power and action. The St. Croix may have a tad bit faster action while being just a hair under the Loomis model in power, but they're very, very close. Now if you have a standard S782, I think you're going to find the St. Croix
Forum: rodboard

That all depends - are you talking about offering rod building classes? I used to do this and charged $50 per head. I only took 5 or 6 students per class, which ran 4 nights, 2 hours at a time, one night per week. That was 15 to 20 years ago. Nowadays I think $100 for a class which includes all the basics would be more than fair. If the student is even remotely intelligent (and the instructor i
Forum: rodboard

It won't make any difference - the line isn't concerned with how many legs or feet the guide has. The ring is the only thing it cares about. If a single foot guide will take whatever use you plan to give it, then use it. ............
Forum: rodboard

They're different from ISP to ISP. He'll have to call his ISP and get those from them. ...........
Forum: rodboard

The photos in the book I did for Amato were taken with the thread coming over the top and from behind. If you have it, refresh your memory from there. I think once you get a couple started you'll have it down for good. ..............
Forum: rodboard

The trouble with that formula, is that it assumes that fly rod makers all build their 4-weights (or any other weight) to a particular power standard. They don't. It might work as Peter suggests, but it may be much more powerful than that as most modern 9-weight rods are made to cast 4-weight lines at much more than 30 to 40 feet. Don't be surprised if it takes a good 3/4 ounce of lure weight
Forum: rodboard

It's not your computer or the Safari browser. It has something to do with your connection through your ISP. You may need to reset your router as Barry mentioned (turn it off and after a half minute, turn it back on). Or your DNS numbers may need replacing. ................ On the VisualWrap - the Apple will run Windows (it will still be defective and very buggy, but you won't need 2 compu
Forum: rodboard