The Croix 5s610mlxf would be my choice. I believe Karen has a couple of these in stock also.
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I'd just scuff with grey scotchbrite and recoat.
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Mine is unfinished for about the last 5"
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keith david Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi Scott, thanks for the response, how does that > rod you extended cast? It casts great. I've done 2 of these extensions for musky guys. The first one (8-36oz rated) for heaving 2 pounders and the second(4-12oz) for big bucktails. The extra length really aids in figure 8's.
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$75-$100 sounds pretty reasonable. I just extended a 9' musky rod to 10'3" and I had over $80 in parts alone.
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Jeremy Johnson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I am still using Scott's PSI drill press > attachment to this day as a matter of fact. Glad it's still working out for you Jeremy. I knew it went to someone on here, but I couldn't remember who.
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Penn State had a kit for about $20 that has a live center and tool rest that will bolt to the drill press to convert it to a vertical lathe. I used one for years before I got a real lathe.
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I did have 2 rods, one glued up the night before and one to be glued for the demo. My concern was that regular rod bond wouldn't be set up in time to transport the rod home at the end of the day. Given the temps, i was mistaken. I will be using regular rod bond next time.
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For the past 3 years, I have been attending a youth and family outdoor show in the capacity of an exhibitor. I would take some of my custom rods and some rod parts and show the kids what went in to building a rod. Never did a formal demonstration.....until today. Here's the rest of the story: I never read the label on a jar of Quik Bond until today. Did you know that it says "10 minute
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John, I am located in SWPA also. I have a small shop in my basement and would gladly show you what I know and answer any questions you might have.....a long as you dont mind being accosted by a few dogs!
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I never clean the cups. Get many many mixes out of them before there is too much residue for them to work effectively. I switched over to smaller Solo cups once my original 2 were done.
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I did one once with Gudebrod Sunburst with CP to match a Daiwa Sol spinning reel. Painted the blank white under the wraps so the color would stay more true.
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Charcoal nylon without CP
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I like an uplocking Aero also. My favorite is still a TN. I'd like to find some rings larger than 26mm though.
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I have replaced quite a few grooved tips on Berkley and Fenwick rods that had SS-304 guides on them. They are very similar to the Minimas. Only the tips on said rods were grooverd.
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My guess is micro-bubbles that popped once they were touched. I encountered this with Threadmaster just this week. The rod looks absolutely perfect sitting on the rack. I wait 2 or 3 days for a full cure, then I polish it and that's when it happens. Some of the wraps look matte. Under magnification, you can see tiny pits where the bubbles popped.
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Not much work at all. maybe 10 seconds/pad is all that is needed. any more than that and you risk burning through the finish.
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Never did any tru-oil on cork, but I do coat wood reel seats and then polish them. I wet sand with micromesh pads. 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, & 12000.
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I never gave much thought about it. I typically wrap 2 rods with a spool and put it away for possible repairs on those 2 rods. I don't want to be half way through a rod and have to switch spools and risk different dye lots.
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I know the stuff the guys use on baits yellows. I'm gonna do a couple test mixes and toss them outside for a while before i do the real inlay.
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After a little Googling, I'm gonna get a small kit of Envirotex jewelry resin to experiment with.
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Think I'll go the resin route. Was never really happy using finish on the other inlays I've done. They came out great, but didn't like the fact that they weren't hard.
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I have a project in my mind that will consist of a sterling silver charm inlayed in the butt cap and and covered with epoxy. Will the sterling react with the epoxy? I will turn the project in another direction and not order the charm if the belief is that it will tarnish under the epoxy.
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It depends on my mood as to how I wrap double foot guides. Sometimes I'll work down the whole rod wrapping one foot on each guide left to right, then flip the rod and repeat and sometimes I complete each guide as I work down the rod, one wrap left ot right and one wrap right to left. I don't know if it's right, wrong or if I'm just quirky.
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Any chance of getting Shimano blanks? (probably not) I just re-built a 13' Clarus for a guy and I really like the 4 piece configuration.
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I got a similar pump bottle from my dentist. It's even labeled Alcohol on the side.
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On the rare occasion I use a torch, I don't put the flame under the rod, I put it beside the rod. Usually it's when I rushed while mixing the finish and all of the bubbles didn't come out when I put it on the foil.
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I'd go the EVA route that Billy suggested. I just bored some 1.5" cork to 7/8" and it was kinda scary. Couldn't imagine boring to 1 1/16".
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I haven't used it on Madeira, but did use it on a test wrap of another brand embroidery thread. It didn't repel like epoxy, but it doesn't penetrate the threads either. it just sits on top.
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OK Bill. I gave the magic 8-ball a shake this morning and determined that it was gonna be somewhere in NC. Knowing that the show has been in Charlotte before, I asked if there was going to be a repeat performance. it said "Very doubtful". Being that the location has to be close to an airport, I asked it it was going to be in Greensboro....It said 'Don't count on it'. A quick
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