Mike Ballard Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Kerry Hansen Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Mike Ballard Wrote: > > > -------------------------------------------------- > > > ----- > > > Re: Adding Legth to a 9" 11 wt. Musky Rod new > > > Posted by: Kerry Hans
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Kerry, > > Your hand is the point of effort. Move that and it > will definitely make a difference. Mike is > correct. > > ............ Tom, I said he was incorrect when he said I was wrong to state that adding length to rod will change the moment arm. Also moving hand up on the rod itse
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I also remember on this site, the discussion of a particular guide weighing a GRAM more, LOL!
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > George Forster Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > The plan is to extend the blank far enough to > add > > a fixed fighting butt, without losing any of > the > > working length of the blank. I like a fast > blank, > > and thought I m
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Mike Ballard Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Re: Adding Legth to a 9" 11 wt. Musky Rod new > Posted by: Kerry Hansen (---.wavecable.com) > Date: April 15, 2023 10:09PM > > You can spin it any way you want, no pun intended. > but you add length 3 1/2" or 6" to the rod and > that fighting butt is implanted on your chest o
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I think Nylon tracks better because of it's stretch, but not as good color selection.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Kerry, > > Yes, I've done several articles on lever mechanics > in the magazine. They do not apply in this > instance however. > > Perhaps you're not familiar with fly rods and > fighting butts. You will still hold the rod at the > same point - the grip determines that, not the &g
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Kerry Hansen Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Tom Kirkman Wrote: > > > -------------------------------------------------- > > > ----- > > > A longer fighting butt doesn't change > anything > > if > > > the but
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > A longer fighting butt doesn't change anything if > the butt lies behind what in effect is the > fulcrum. You can put a 2 foot long fighting butt > on the rod and it won't change the effective > lever, casting length, etc., It's only going to > affect rod balance. > > ...............
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What kind of alcohol?
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I use the "Equal Angle" Method.
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I remember a bunch of rods I made 25 years ago for my Son and me for our trips down to San Fillipi. I remember the heavy FUJI Chrome Hardaloy guides I put on most of those rods. Can't remember the nomenclature of them, but they WERE stiff. I didn't shape/thin the feet and because of that, the feet resisted bending when the rod was flexed and of course the resultant finish cracks! Use common sense
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Be sure to stock up on Water Line.
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DR1086-MHX
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Get a timer
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Where on the the Tip section was it broke?
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I don't have pictures, but here is basically what I did. I bought a long section of molded kitchen counter top with one edge (front) rounded and having a slight raise to stop round things from rolling off onto the floor. Since the surface is very hard, it is very easy to clean and prying up a dropped bit of epoxy. I built a frame work that had recesses in for storage boxes. I set the counter top
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Robert Parbus Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > So I have a pretty small area ( 10x 11) in which I > build rods and do some lasering. Both hobbies. > It's plenty tidy but not sterile by any means. > Right now I have 2 drying and don't feel like I > should be messing around in there and raise any > dust. So I'm thinking about building somet
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christopher ball Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I posted on a couple FB but didn’t get any > replies. > > > Graph paper- I can draw a stick figure Lolol I did > think of that though and even tried to get someone > else to draw it, didn’t come out to well.. > > I have searched for a site that would sell > patterns. I can
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Make your own like I do. Like I did the Marine corps emblem. If you can get it on grid paper with 1/8" grid you can make your own, then all you have to do is weave it. I like 1/8" grid because it is easier on my eyes. I don't use a LEFT LIST, I weave directly from pattern.
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probably means in number one to increase the spacing by an inch on your guide until you get to the spiral wrap area where he is using six inches spacing for each. number 2, commercial rods are dictated by cost so fewer guides cost less for product as well as labor. I would only use a table to get you near the finish then you adjust. I still use the equal angle consept.
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Casting
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Aleks Maslov Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Kerry, > > Thanks for the question - > > It is actually backwards. > > Pre-preg received from the manufacturer has a > certain percentage of fiber and a certain > percentage of resin (and in some cases, a certain > percent of scrim) > > If you are rolling under a lo
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Aleks Maslov Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Chris, > > It's a balancing act for sure - we roll our blanks > under 250 psi, the industry standard is about > 40psi. This means that we can do get a dense > enough laminate with less resin in the material. > Less resin means that you can put more of the > "good stuff" in the
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Aleks Maslov Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Kerry, > > Sort of, it is a finish very similar to the x-ray > blanks. > > Best, > Aleks > > Kerry Hansen Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Is this new series un-sanded? Thank YOU for taking the time to answer!
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Is this new series un-sanded?
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I use the inner plug more for blank alignment except as Roger says for split break other wise it is short. For the outer sleeve I taper the ends for appearance, easy thread climb and a gradient in strength and overlap the break about an inch plus the taper. I use rod bond because I am not in a hurry and the stuff has always worked for me so don't see the need to change. I only use Glass, which I
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I wonder if the Rod manufacturers are concerned about repeatability of the CCS numbers, or how close will the variations be? You start with the roll of fabric that you depend on its maker to keep it within a standard, you lay down the pattern(s) and cut the fabric then you take multiple pieces of cut fabric all in different sizes and shapes and using a hot iron (at least that what they used to us
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What will be in the App?
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Thanks Roger
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