Here is something to thinks about. I remember learning this from my mother in the 1940's and I use it now. When cooking, Viscous things like honey cling to the surface and it is harder to scrape it out, so if you have other liquids in the recipe, like veg oil, if you use your measuring cup for the oil first, then when you measure the honey, it easily releases from the cup and will pour out easily
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David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Kerry, good to see what you came up with worked > out. Supporting the tip top makes all the > difference in the world, doesn't it. Definitely
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Used my new support fo a flyrod last night and it worked like a charm.
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colby witherow Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Like I said before I messed up on the grip being > impatient and not paying enough attention... What > can I save and what do I need to do I'd like to > save the blank and reel seat if possible as they > were of high quality.... Honestly with my new job > I barely even have the time to finish
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frankly if you dink around to long in applying or messing with any finish, it starts to get viscous and the more viscous it gets the bubbles have a harder time to rise to the surface to burst. I, like a lot of builders, have tried many finishes and they worked fine including Flexcoat, the very first one ever used about 1980, but I don't use any mentioned here.
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David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Kerry, what you're talking about with having > something fixed that is running through the tip > top ring, is going to make the tip wobble. The tip > top ring isn't in line with the blank. David, Your right, so last night before seeing your remarks, thinking on it more I realized what you are saying
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How about this, have a L shaped piece of soft Nylon material that could be supported like Roger's device, but the horizontal portion of the nylon piece could ride in the tiptop ring. That soft nylon material shouldn't bother the ring surface and you are using it only for a very short time under light tension to apply the decorative wrap at the base of the tube, and this device is located beyond t
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Sam Kirk Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > After this I don't know what to do. Everyone that > reply to my question are advanced rod builders. > Why don't people vote on it after all there is > mixed opinion on this matter. Just curious, was the rod originally a casting rod or spinning rod?
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David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Lynn ......... you da man !!! LOL > > > Edit for addition ........ back in the day, very > prominent and highly regarded people thought the > Earth was flat. That it was like a table top, and > you could just walk off the edge. That train of > thought was deeply entrenched in soc
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Kevin Fiant Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Wrapping up a couple rods this weekend and am > finding still have some trouble once I get out > toward the tip of the rod. Any tips/tricks to > make this easier? Some of my issues include: > - climbing up the guide foot seems a bit harder > (thread wants to double up more and with the micro &
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Dennis Danku Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Sam, If you need anything to keep you busy I have > plenty of overstock I can send you,blanks, > reelseats, guides,thread. I've always wanted to > fish Florida for Bass also.My email is open, give > me a shout. Stay well. Good man Dennis!
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Mike Ballard Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > People who build on the straight-stiffest axis at > least have some hard data as a reason for building > that way. People who build on the spine have > nothing other than opinions from a variety of > sources none of which have never proved it or > supplied data to show that building on the spine
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Sam, > Thanks for introducing a new word to my vocabulary > --- Spline > > > ) > > I did not know what that word meant in the field > of Mathmetics. > > Thanks again. That word originated about 40 years ago by a TYPO and people still refer to it.
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Many years ago on an Albacore overnight trip that I would take annually with a guy and his two grown sons I was sitting in the cabin with one of the sons. The Dad liked to go to garage sales and if he found a long glass rod like a Fenwick that he liked he would buy it and have me upgrade the guides. The dad happened to have an Albacore on at that moment with a good bend in that limber rod and i p
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Wow, I was tempted for a while to use them from hearing all the wonderful comments about them, now I am glad I didn't.
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I have finished wrapping my 9' 9" model. the fine ridges didn't cause any problems and favorite color I chose I think looks good. waiting for the CP work to be done before finishing. Wish I didn't have to lay down an epoxy patch to add some decals. The Buckeye burl that I stabilized and turned for the grip insert looks good. Looking forward to the time this summer that I can take it to the C
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Only problem I ever had was stopping a deck hand from straightening the "crooked" guide!
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Heat isn't going to do anything for you. > > Let what you have now set for about 3 days. Back a > piece of 320 grit sandpaper with a wood block. > Rotate the rod and sand the surface lightly. You > should quickly see where the high spots are as > they won't show any contact with the sandpap
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Kerry Hansen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Tom Kirkman Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Get a s screw eye. Use a small nail to punch a > > hole in the can near the bottom lip. Make sure > the > > hold is a bit smaller than the screw eye so the > > screw eye can be thread into the
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Get a s screw eye. Use a small nail to punch a > hole in the can near the bottom lip. Make sure the > hold is a bit smaller than the screw eye so the > screw eye can be thread into the hole. This will > be a sheet metal type thread, not a machine type > thread. > > With the screw eye ab
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Kerry Hansen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > i don't think that is correct that a vacuum is > created, because the vapor pressure is pushing out > the liquid. I am in the process of making a Steelhead Rod from a blank I got from North Fork Composites. It was a new blank that Alex put on sale at $150 in JAN for the over 9 1/2' Steelhead blank.. Wh
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i don't think that is correct that a vacuum is created, because the vapor pressure is pushing out the liquid.
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Alex Tway Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hey guys so I’m building my first boat rod and > need some tips or guidance on components. I’ve > build some spinning rods, casting and fly rods but > these boat rods have me stumped as far as guides > and spacing and the grips and reel seats(pretty > much everything). I’m fairly new and trying to
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Good for a quick repair.
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Seth Blackburn Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hello all! > > I am new to weaving and I’m trying to find out > the trick to tying off my wraps on the beginning > end of the wrap. That’s the end where all of the > threads are taped in order. > > Is the trick to simply cut as close to the first > wrap thread as possible and bur
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Bob Slaughter Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I just had a thought and wondered if anyone has > experimented with replacing the epoxy used to > cover wraps with UV Resin. Permagloss
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Ronald Atchley Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have searched the archives here but had no luck > in finding out why using a " Perma Gloss > Container" would extend the shelf life of U40 > urethane . If exposure to air / moisture is the > cause of Perma Gloss going bad in the bottle , it > seems that increasing the surface area
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Mark Talmo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Kerry, > Thanks for the reply. I am unfamiliar with the > “Equal Angle Method” for positioning / spacing > guides. I would certainly be interested in > exploring another method if you would please > explain / elaborate. I made my large plexiglas graph many many years ago based on a discussion
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Mike Ballard Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Kerry you plainly said, twice, that it did not > matter where you placed your hand. The fact is > that it does. Go back and read your own posts. I > am going to let this one go and not respond again. Mike, I suspect I meant if you reread it it doesn't matter where you place your hand when length is
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This kinda reminds me of something although it is nothing about fishing. We have this large Refrigerator that has two doors in the upper half, a very large bottom drawer/freezer and a thin drawer in the middle for stuff like bagged salads cheese or what ever you want. We noticed that in the back of the drawer it was colder and would almost freeze stuff. Needless to say, it was not good to let the
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