I have recoated in about 4 or 5 hours.
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I would suggest using "A" thread for the underwrap and "D" over. That will help keep the overwrap from pulling down into the thread below. Putting on a coat of finish before overwrapping is the best way for two reasons, 1. it makes it easier to over wrap and 2. it expels the air from the underwrap keeping the bubbles to a minimum in your finish coats.
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I which direction was the rod tip? If it was to the left, when you finished, the image would be reversed or upside down on the rod. And yes there is a right and left to the jigs. So here comes the hard part, if you reversed them and the number one thread was at the bottom as you looked at the jigs on the rod instead of at the top. You would have to reverse the turn of your wrapping thread to keep
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Rex, Weaving isn't difficult but does require that you understand what you are doing, as do all artistic endeavors. Learning the basics and putting in the time to get comfortable with them will make weaving easier and more enjoyable. You shouldn't have any trouble being able to stop and walk away from a weave in progress as long as you are able to remember where you are in the pattern or left li
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First of all you don't need a left list to weave from. Weave directly from the graph / pattern, you are using to make the left list. You might try cross stitch patterns of different fonts if you are not able to make a pattern of your own. Investing the time to learn to use the program you have would be worth while but if you don't like the program, you might do as Tom suggests or try "PC Sti
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Spencer is correct, Randy Penny, now owns United Composites and was the designer of the Hercules series when he worked at Seeker. You could call him at United Composites and ask him.
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I'm so sorry to hear that Tom. He too will be missed by us all.
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Thank you Lance. I will miss him. We had many long talks.
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John, That happens to all of us. Threads don't "stack" in neat rows, they get pulled down beside each other. Before you start weaving pull all the threads out of each slot, lift and snug them up into a close group. Then each time you take a thread from the right side jig, take out all of the threads in that slot and lift and snug them up, then take the one to the left that you want. Tha
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To answer your "one last thing" question, if you will take all of the threads out of the right hand jig slot and pick out the color you need and free it from any threads wrapped around or over it you should eliminate your problem. Be sure it butts up against the wrapping thread with no other thread in between when you take it to the left.
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You could also try using a thread bobbin with some weight added if necessary.
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Gib; I like to be able to back up a long way on occasion as well as maintain a consistent tension. I also change the amount of tension depending on the size of thread I am using, so I made a tensioning system that allows me to back up as well as adjust the amount of tension I'm using by changing weights attached to the thread. Go to my gallery and you will find a couple of pictures there that sho
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John; I'm sorry, I misunderstood your original post. I thought you were using the old method of weaving where tape wrapped back on itself was used in place of the jigs. In your case if its just to hold the threads in place so you can wrap them down before starting the weave, I do that differently. I wrap the blank with blue masking tape then a layer of double sided tape where I want the design t
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Using tape to hold your design threads is an exercise in frustration. If you have the jigs use them? Of course, experience is a great teacher, so I'm sure when you are through you will gained that and will know "from experience" why we don't use the that method anymore. The carpet tape will work. Some better than others due to the way its made. They are gummy though.
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Your best fix is to make or buy a jig or loom. That said you can try double sided tape. It's stickier than masking tape. Wrap the area where you want to use it with blue painters tape first and put the double sided tape over the painters tape. If you don't you will find the double sided tape a pain to get off the blank. One of the problems you are having is the silicone on the thread and the fac
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Using a "V" block, set a "T" square from the outside edge of the block to the center of the "V". Now put the blank in the "V" block and locate the axis you want the guides on so it aligns with the end of the square.. Secure the blank so it will not move. Now using the "T" square and "V" block you can mark the chosen axis anywhere alon
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Have you looked in the Library. Button above. There is an excel file there I think.
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Try to get in touch with Ray Adams. He was handling that for awhile and may be able to help you.
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It looks like the difference between NCP and regular nylon.
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Thank you Steven. I sent you an E-Mail.
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You're probably going to have to make your own. You will have to decide what type pattern you want, Silhouette, Color change, what the Circumference of the blank is where you want to put it so the weave will fit the blank. How much detail you are trying to get. How many colors you can handle. Then choose a picture that fits well in a narrow but long location. You might look online to see if you c
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I would suggest you use only the Polyneon #40. It's a little finer than size "A". Then depending on what you are doing you can try #60 or even the #75 but stay with Polyneon. The thread gets thinner as the number gets higher. The metallic are good also. Just remember you need to use color preserver on them .
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"Thread Weaving for the Custom Rod Builder" is available from Mud Hole, Renzetti Inc. and Anglers Work Shop. Sponsors on the left. It will take you through the entire weaving process step by step.
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Go to the web site for the boat you are going on. They will have recommendations for the gear you should have, or you can call their office and ask.
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Harry, would you explain what you mean by "stitch pattern".
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40 threads or more should give you nice sized letters. The more detail you want, the more threads and the larger the finished weave will be. You can make a larger weave smaller by using smaller thread. For example if you use "C" over "D" you will have a larger letter than if you use "A" over "C". If the blank is really small in diameter you can use Madeira
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Be a good son and buy your Dad a set of Micro Wave guides, one day you will be glad you did.
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Madeira Polyneon 40 is slightly smaller than a rod wrapping size "A" regular nylon thread. A size "A" NCP thread, is about one size larger than "A" regular. There is no size "A" Madeira.
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I would suggest you make sure your guide feet sit flat on the blank, to prevent high pressure at the point of the guide foot. If they don't fit flat, gently bend the guide foot until each sits flat on the blank before you wrap them. If you don't you can litterly force the tip of the guide into a thin wall blank.
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Call Decal Connection. I'm sure they can help.
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