I think the Rainshadow will be closer to the Winston than the others, although I haven't tried the new Dan Craft FTL blanks yet. The Rainshadow in the green is really striking in the sun on a trout stream as Bill noted. Have sold a lot of them to steelheaders.
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It should be what feels right to you. Tape some arbors on the blank in two inch intervals from a short handle on out as far as you want, slip the reelseat over the tape arbors, put on your reel and move it around till it feels right to you than size the grip to that. If you're going to fish from a kayak or canoe I'd sit in one to make sure that everything still is to your liking and nothing is h
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Fine tooth hacksaw would work. I use a cutoff wheel on my Dremel.
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The bigger hardware stores should have wood swatches you can compare to your blank.
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Angler's Workshop has been super with me. I always get an email confirmation when it leaves. I receive phone calls or messages whenever something is amiss or if something new , or special is available. Just the other day $ 30 SHX Shikari blanks. There was also a batch of SH III blanks.
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www.threadart.com/thread/metallic.asp shows the Madeira line. It only shows the light yellow # 303 and a #28 that sure looks orange to me.
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The nice thing about St Croix is it's usually not to difficult to check what you get with a finished rod at a store close by.
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We looked on the Dakota Collectibles site. Looking at the Madeira thread color chart ( which just has the color numbers with no pictures) under metallics it shows four yellows. We haven't quickly found the site with the real color charts, but we'll see what we can find.
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Think Andy only had the BESH 1202 left, I think he told me $20 for them about a month ago. I imagine they are in Charleston now in the cans.
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Just set up the guides on a new blank to me, it's a Rogue SW 904. One very powerful blank for it's line rating. Anyway I set up my guides as usual and this blank has a spacing of 16 inches between the stripper and the next guide. One very stiff butt. I looked in the bumper guide article, it says nothing about my concerns, but I seem to remember being recommended not to exceed 11 inches in a pos
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Derek, We think Madeira makes 3 or four yellow metallic colors. My better half remembers a #303 Lt Ylw, and the other was # 25. Maybe also a # 325. Aaron, about the closest orange we've seen was more a peach color.
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Might look at the St Croix SC II 2S66ULF-2.
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The unsanded blanks still have the spiral pattern from the wrappng that was on them when they rolled and cooked the blank. The sanding process takes a couple thousandths off the blank and smooths the blank surface. My 10 wt is a spiral blank and I really like it for it's individuality.
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Try www.fultzrods.com he has used quite a few Powell blanks and may be able to recommend something. All I can remember is that the lighter actioned (moderate) Powell rods I've messed with always seem to be green. Think the Winstons were too.
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I think a great place to get you answer would be www.steelheadsite/speycasting/ There is a huge amount of speypersons there that have tried just about everything. Many build their own.
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Fran, Over here on the west coast they were used as mooching rod blanks. They made them in a 2 thru 5 power range if I remember right, and the 4 power was very popular used on 20 -25 lb line. The 3 power was a harder blank to come by for some reason, at least around my area. Again this is all coming the top from a head that hasn't ingested enough coffee yet.
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If your using a small levelwind reel that you fish palmed in your hand, trigger reelseats are nice. When using a casting reel with no levelwind or a large levelwind where you do your fishing with your pole hand on the foregrip they serve no real purpose.
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I have a Dan Craft 9 ft spiral unsanded Sig V, it gets the job done beautifully.
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Rob, Yes, that's the bad news. That's the blank I tried to order from Dan on the 17th of this month. He says he'll have the blanks I mentioned above.
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If your cigar grip is too long, you can always take off what you think is necessary from the back without changing the basic looks.
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The only problem is Dan doesn't have the Sig V lower weight blanks in his lineup any longer. 6 wt and up is all. 7 & 8 wt in 10 ft, and the 9 & 10 wt 9 ft. Just tried to get some.
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The only problem with the Sig V blanks are that the variety isn't there anymore. The last email I had from Dan was that he had a 8' 9" 6 wt, and that the only others he would be carrying for the remainder of the year was the 10 ft 7 & 8 wts and the 9 ft 9 & 10 wts.
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Using the search function at the top of this post and setting it for all dates should give you a pretty good hit on catfish gear.
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My Loomis rods have always had the hooded nut towards the butt on the graphite reelseats and towards the tip on the rod with the Wiebe style reelseats except for the dropshot rods that reverse the Wiebe seat. Is there something different now? Some of my rods are over 20 years old, and the last I looked at the store they are pretty much unchanged.
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No, I wouldn't make that assumption. Blank diameter, material wall thickness, blank taper, tip size, many things to take into account. The CC system is the easiest way to bring things closer.
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Allen the info is on the RodMaker site. European subscription are thru Willian Van de Vorst.
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If I remember right on those old rods they had the opposing guide setup on the so you could reverse the line when the blank started taking a set one way or the other.
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What kind of rpms are we talking about? I have no knowledge of airbrushing requirements. My fly and jig turner is a 18 rpm unit. My rod driers are 4 rpm. You can variably change speeds on AC motors about 5 to 1 max, otherwise they get real hot. DC you can go 20 to 1 but they need heavier circuits to carry the additional current. AC is also cheaper.
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The shorter rod will put less wear and tear on the arm and shoulder also.
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Frantz, It was Volume 8, Issue 2. If you go to the RodMaker site that's the magazine cover. Lower left part of cover, Template Ritz Gordon grip.
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