If you like the thread color of the factory rods the thread colors is posted in the rodbuilding section of the St Croix site. Being green is a natural color, other natural colors of the same shade should work well. Haven't built one recently, but they have been an easy rod to like before. A very easy rod to learn on. St Croix usually isn't a hard company to find a dealer in your area.
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R.B. Meiser has a 10 ft 12 wt.
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Steve, Don't you mean Tungsten or Bismuth for weight? Titanium is light, they make guides out of it. Are you balancing in the horizontal position or in the fishing position?
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St Croix SC IV.
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Tiger Eye blanks are brown. I'd go single foot.
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All my Shimanos have the same size foot, 1000 thru 4000 sizes. They will fit 16 mm on up reelseats. That said for comfort reasons at least a 17 mm seat should be used as the smaller diameter seats aren't near as comfortable to fish. I have fairly small hands and I use mostly 18 mm on all my rods.
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Angler's Workshop is about 50 ft from the Lamiglas factory.
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It's by far my favorite T & T rod series. Nice on big water and windy conditions, easy to make some pretty nice loops with, does pretty well in close with same line. Angler's Workshop had some 5 wt 2 piece Horizons on sale, didn't notice any 4 piece models, but there may be some.
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I've been told a few times that they were built by Rogue on Kistler mandrels.
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Can't see the color of your wood trim pieces, but a safe bet would be to try to match that color as close as you can. Dabbing some water on the thread will give you an idea of it's color with no CP.
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Have used a few Professional series blanks, they were a nice blank that I was told came out of the All Star factory. The fly blanks were moderate fast to fast action. Have made a few rods on the Tradition blanks on the cast/spin steelhead blanks, they were a good value also.
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Dave, If you get the winding check from the same place the other components are coming from they can size it for you before shipment. They can also ensure your tip top is the right size. Getting everything at the same place will save you if shippng costs also.
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Rob, You'll be fine, there will be very little stress ever given to the epoxy bond from a 6 wt blank and anything it can hold. Your bond should be many, many times stronger than your blank.
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Tried it once after reading it in the book, it's a pain as the reel keeps trying to flip. Otherwise, I was using the smaller spinning guides on top casting rods back than and spaced them as stated where I almost let the line touch the blank, so I didn't see it as much of a difference. Tried my first Roberts wrap from that book also, still have the rod.
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Fushcia thread with no CP is a pretty good compromise I think. Angler's Workshop Fushcia silk w/CP is pretty close to the guide purple.
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Andy Dear at Lamar Fishing would be an excellent source of info and materials. He's to the left.
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The Pearsall threads are probably the lightest and strongest for thread diameter. Bellinger to the left carries it. I've had good luck with thread from Angler's Workshop and Grodbrud also.
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According to American Tackle the zirconia ring is a little harder than the alconite. SiC is a little harder than the zirconia.
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I'd have gone with the ISB822.5 or 3C68MXF until the swimbait, crankbait and topwater were in the mix. Personally I'd grap my 3 power Rainshadow IP popping or maybe the St Criox MM blanks for an overall. I'd worry more about keeping a fish on considering the area I'm fishing, hook and line sizes involved and less about the fish size, they don't weight anything in the water. I've fished the more m
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I have a Lamiglas 8 ft 3 in blank here at the house that might work. I have the Certified Pro blank, but they also made it in a higher modulus XMG 50 material. I could mock up a rod and test it with a 1 oz weight on it late afternoon tomorrow if you like. It is a natural 10 - 12 lb line blank. Fast action blanks (MT = Mag Taper) XSH992MT in Certified Pro, ESH992MT in XMG50 graphite. Angler's had
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It's been a few years, but I cast the 10 wt 4 piece. It took a lot of line in the air to start working. Think it was closer to a 12 wt. We were on the lower tidal areas for salmon, and Mike was throwing, I believe, custom 390 grain shooting heads most of the day.The Tiger Eye trout rods seem to be much closer to their line ratings.
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How about the Angler's Workshop TSP90H3 IM6 blank? Rated 15 to 30 lb line, 1 to 4 oz weight. Link to the left. Look in the Travel rod catagory.
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Thanks for finding some copies of this book for us, but the VisualWrap program seems like a much better deal. With the program, tutorials, pictures and forums it's pretty incredible.
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The #8 BLG is pretty close to a #3 snake, a #6 BLG is pretty close to a # 1 snake.
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You mean Madeira? He He. That might help with the search. I've only used nylon, Gudebrod or Angler's.
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If you need a little stiffer tip and more backbone might try the Lamiglas MB842, 3/4 to 2 1/4 oz rating - vs - the 841, 1/2 to 1 1/4 oz if I remember right. Angler's might have one on sale, I got a MB 841 for 20% off the other day, there may have been a few 842s in the rack also.
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I have the hard copy of the book, so yours is probably more current. My copy is at a friend's place and I just pulled the info off the sheet I have taped up in my shop. I had talked to Rich, about 2 1/2 years ago, and he had said there was some slight modifications to the system coming down the line, but I had the impression he was mostly rethinking rear grip lengths which he had pretty much stan
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Ed, Yes, once glued you have to smooth them up and shape and size them. When first bonded you'll get a rough uneven cork cylinder that you have to make into a grip.
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Glen, That's not the guide sizes in my copy of Rich's book. My shows 12, 10, 2 ea 8s, than 6s to the tip. 9 guides. Spacing 5,6,7,7,7,7(6,6,6). The ( ) are the revolver guides. I've built that blank, it is strong enough and large enough diameter to handle a full skeleton seat if you want and is pretty comfortable due to the blank dia. All but the 12 are single foot fly.
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Steve, Are you putting the HT in the guide wrap or at the ends?
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