A 1206 is designed for switch rod if I remember right. You can still Spey cast with a switch set up. Hence the name switch. Single or double handed.
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I had a customer like that once. didn't want to pay the quoted price for a repair. vetched about paying and that I overcharged him. He was about a hour away and said he was going to bad mouth me at one of the local shop near him. I told him "no problem, while you are there say hi to all the Fred and the rest of the gang. In fact I'll meet you there so you can get your rod". He
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If it's silk this is the go to stuff for classic bamboo rods. I use it also on more modern "plastic" fly rods. I don't think it's not that hard to use despite what some say. it will go translucent without any CP. If you don't like it, Call me. I can always use more.
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Right now I am in the middle of restoring a Heddon #50. Rusty orange wraps that are tipped with a light olive green. I've also seen shades of brown from light tan up to dark chocolate work. While black is an obvious choice it can sometimes look too Halloweenish depending on the orange. Bright orange with a turquoise trim does evoke a sort of 1950's feel. I've used that combo on sever
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I do two coats. I build mostly fly rods also. I've been building for a local shop so that they can have some "house brand" rods. I sent one over with just one coat of epoxy. The thing would not sell. when asked the shop owner why he thought it was he said "the customers are comparing it to the higher build finish on the factory rods." I took it back, added a secon
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So would you use the F series or the FX series of Minimas?
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I use high speeds and an Easy Wood Tools r4 rougher. I start by feeding just the corner of the tool into the end of the grip at the tail stock and then work it across to round it. Once it's close I start sanding. There have been times where I've saturated the thing in super glue and let it dry for a day. I've then used the super glue as a finish also.
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Thanks John, I was wondering if I was "over building" this. so what you are suggesting is 20,12 and then 7 or 8's the rest of the way.
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here's what I'm thinking as far as guides for this rod. those of you with experience, double check it and offer opinions/options. rod is a 13' 6-10 lb using a 4 1/2" center pin reel here is what I'm thinking for guide set up. Fuji y series 20,16,12,10,8 Fuji L series size 8 for the rest thoughts/ideas. other recommendations? Thanks
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Ouch, the better part of a Benjamin for a guide. I'm going to show that to my customers who cringe when I tell them that their hand made agate stripper guide on their bamboo fly rod costs $30.
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I think I get the picture of what is wrong but a real pic wold help. If it's a clean break like you say you could get a syringe(many rod building suppliers carry them) and fill it with epoxy. paint a little epoxy on the joint then clamp together and then using the syringe pump some epoxy between the cork and the blank. you may have to drill a small hole into the cork to
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I found a bunch of vintage nibs from the early 1920's at work. they are a bit bigger than the one I bought from a rod supplier. for me they are what works. I'll check the size number when I get home but I've got something like 50 of them. If anyone is interesed in one, let me know.
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Dale, unhide your e mail I may be able to help you get that done.
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I've used him several times.
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Oh man Karen is the best. If you don't get her direct, leave a message and she gets back to you in no time.
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I mount my blank in a 4 jawed chuck. bring up the tail stock to the center and start by knocking off the corners and getting it to almost round. then I remover the tail stock and use a drill chuck and center drill to start the center bore. switch over to the proper sized bit for the seat and slowly drill out the bore. i can usually only get about a 1/4" before the
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Anglers Roost or Kettle Creek. I've built on both. I've had a Kettle Creek for years and it's probably one of my favorite rods.
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That's exactly what I do Jim.
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I used to use tape. then last year i picked up a Flex coat stick at the Michigan Rodbuilders Gathering(coming up this year April 18) and started using it. A little goes a long way. If I see a bogger of glue on the guide I know it's too much and just pop it off and start over. I think I've done about 2 dozen rods with that stick and am not even a quarter thru it.
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now you are talking in my area of knowledge. so to answer your questions.. 1. the guides can maybe be found but it may take some looking on the used market. 2. if it's just a wall hanger then I would strip it all since it's easier to start clean. I would leave the grip with all it's original patina. 3. Silk. also starting clean will match all the wrap colors. 4. varnish. a go
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Just to add to what Keith posted. If you are new to rod building, bring what you are working on or planning. If you have questions or are stuck there will be plenty of folks to help you out. Everyone should try to bring something for "show and tell". Some of the seminars will include, Bark Grips, Ice rods, Bamboo rod restoration/repair, and there will be a CCS measuri
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when everything goes perfect. today was that day. I've got an order for 10 fly rods. spent the weekend finishing them up. did all the lettering and inscriptions using a Speedball pen and what for me is the perfect nib. found them in a 100 year old building at work and for my needs they are the right nib. Epoxied last night and checked the babies this morning and as the
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I may have some stashed. I can't remember if I have green/black or not. I know I have a bunch of black/white but I'm sitting at work dealing with St Patrick's day crowd so I'm distracted. I'll try to look when I get home.
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I could totally see this. there are many times I've used a spin seat on a fly rod. I do like the idea you have going there.
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depends on shipping method. 2 day priority from Washington to Michigan is faster than standard shipping from Ohio to Michigan. I can drive to an Ohio supplier,and many times do, faster than they can ship. fastest order I've ever done was to cal the order into the supplier wheni was 30 min. out and they had it waiting at the desk.
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I think Jamie is going to be the employee of the month here soon. I had a question of a fly grip and reel seat set up that the catalog couldn't address. I called and got Jamie. he went out to the warehouse and pulled the items and did a test fit then called me back. Bonus points.
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I kind of going into uncharted territory here. I'm thinking of putting some Winns on a center pin rod. question of the day. what size and which ones. I'm thinking the straight saltwater model for the front but which for the rear? give me some ideas for the set up. Thanks
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If you click on my name it will give you my E mail address. send the pics to that and i can look at them and probably post them for you also.
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Pictures will help. more than likely your rod is a Montague or H and I. Many rods from those makers are prone to cracking ferrules. If you unhide your address we can talk more and i can offer help. I may even have the parts you need.
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