Tim, we need to talk. I'm in Saline also.
Forum: rodboard

Well Gabe, even though The Maize and Blue cuts my paycheck I'm a Spartan fan. GO Green,Go White(plus they are easier colors to match)
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I just finished several "wolverine" rods. I'm at work right now (at the University of Michigan) but when I get home I can double check the colors if you what. I think the lemon yellow was the one the blue was a prowrap I think regal blue but don't hold me to it right now. these are the official colors as per the University guide
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I wish they would make them in spey/switch rod sizes. I've got a couple of blanks I would try them on.
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I've used the Tour Star grips which I believe are similar . They are comfortable . The only negative comment I heard from one customer was that they where almost too soft and dreaded the feel. As far as feeling the rod/bite I don't think they are any worst than Eva . They do have a sticky feel. I think Echo is putting the Winns on some of their fly rods.
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I've built several rods on that blank. never a problem. Like Alex stated. sounds like operator error.
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Super glue. I do it for wood reel seats all the time. get the thinnest stuff you can find and do multiple coats. it will soak in to a point and then just build layers from there. my local True Value hardware carries a 10 pack of original super glue. for an average fly grip it takes about 3 of the little tubes. with enough coats you can even buff it to a gloss. the middle
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I find the opposite to be true but I build mostly fly rods. I can't put an EVA grip on a fly rod. I've done a few heavier line weights with carbon fiber grips but I got some throwback from the traditionalists. my customers demand high end cork and are willing to pay for it. I just put a 6" grip on a rod that ran me $40 and the customer didn't flinch. but then again
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Harry, do you still have the guys contact info? Give him a call tomorrow and say he owes you. Then every other day until he comes thru.. If not chalk one up.. I had one guy try to stiff me by saying I overcharged him. I told to check the price on the original quote. My policy is 21 days after I inform you that the rod is done. I told this slacker that on day 22 I would send him the E a B
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well right after you posted this I got a rod in for repair. two piece fly rod with a break about 12" down from the top. the rod was still together at the ferrule. Well lo a behold right after I tell you how to unstick the ferrule i get one that won't budge. I tried two person pull, rubber grippers, heat, cold heat and cold. nothing worked. I put it in the corner and
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try wrapping the female portion in a warm towel. like boil some water dip the towel wring it out and then after applying to the rod wrap it in plastic wrap to hold the heat for about 10 min. if that doesn't work try warm towel or even a heating pad on the female and then put some ice on the male. it works for nickle silver ferrules all the time.
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depending on size I've got a bunch of white fiberglass ice blanks. about .260 butt and a size 7 tip 48" long. let me know if you can use them.
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You keep saying that you are not bashing DC and you are not going to correct their mistakes because of some past experience. But in reality what you are doing by not contacting DC is hurting the builder who is waiting for those decals. You are not hurting DC by holding on to the decals. make the call!
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I've gotten orders from DC where they have thrown in extra decals so I could practice with them first before going to the good ones. maybe that's what those are. I would cal them and ask. pretty easy.
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Harry, I think my local Woodcraft is now carrying larger sizes like that.
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I've used it on a few also. i used an old plastic gift card/hotel key card with a half round cutout on the edge as a scrapper. run the card down the blank after the citristrip does it's thnig and it gets most of the paint off.
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I cut my teeth on stuff from Anglers and still use them. Don't know about this lureparts place? all i know is that they are closer to me. I'm sure there will be no discount on shipping tho.
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I would wrap them with some white silk and then put a thinned coat of epoxy over that, Your actual added weight will be minimal and you will not see the wrap.
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There is a very popular bamboo rod building supplier that actually carries dyes to do exactly what you are talking about. They are not a sponsor at left. But a google search for bambino rod building supplies should come up with one whose name starts with Golden.
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I've used the same method as terry when repairing splits and hook digs on bamboo rods. I've thought about trying perma gloss for the first coat but then I don't like to mess with a good thing or maybe it's because when I'm doding the job I don't have perma gloss kicking around. I've never had a problem with any separation etc when using the thinned epoxy. It soaks in
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in all my years of building I've only encountered one knot. it was in a spool of Persalls gossamer silk. That being said now I've jinked myself.
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Yep Bill I still am kind of slammed with bamboo work. Just when I thought the bench was clear....... A guy comes over with something like 15 rods that he wants all done. I told him 5 at a time.
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Tom, green with red tipping would make it a Fairy model. Red with green tipping could make it an Ike Walton. Or a Comador. Since there is no name make it however she wants. I will disagree with others on it being a wall hanger . One of my favorite rods is a 1933 Heddon. Granted the H and I clay have less guides but if the ferrules are solid, tight and not cracked and there are no splits
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Harry, I may have a spare table top belt/ disc sander in the garage. It's yours for the asking.
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Ok Tom, a diamond decal with Utica in it is an early 1930's vintage. The Roosevelt of that era was wrapped in Chinese red Gudibrod 326. Tipped with Anitque gold. Also should have some wide intermediates tipped in gold.
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There should be a model name written in white ink . Give me the name and I'll look up the original colors for you. Send me a message . I've got thousands of vintage guides. I've got an H and I on the bench right now. I can measure them as a reference for your rod. For finish go with spar varnish. Hit the thread with a couple of coats of CP then two of three coats or varnish. If you ha
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We'll first you use your iPad, then add big fingers. Next try typing while watching Capt. Phillips . Add in a bit of auto correct and you get dorks instead if cork. Anyway, I've got seats if Eric or others need them.
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Eric, I have a lot of those old style seats in various colors and sizes. Also the checks to finish off between the seat an dork. Let me know if you need some.
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My son turned me on to MOO.com. The best cards I've ever had made. A ton of options and fast service at a good price. My son is a photographer and he had 6 different pieces of work done on the cards so not everyone get the same card. The up charge for that was minor considering the quality.
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Harry, while I'm no expert turner I have found that I get really good results using a Easy Wood tools mid or mini sized rougher with the R2 cutter. I rough to round then do as Kent does and make a series of depth cuts and connect the dots so to speak. then sand using a backer board. message me and maybe if I'm out your way soon I could stop by and show you how I do it.
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