A couple of weeks ago Tom said there was a new product that fisherman for years have been looking but had to keep it secret. So what was it Tom??
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Jon, check your e mail. I sent you some info.
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You're going to need a small pin punch for that. Lacking that in a pinch you could use a very call brad as a punch. You are going to have to punch it thru part way and then grab it on the other sided and pull it out. A pair of hemostats works great for grabbing them.
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Gentle application of heat should help remove it. However depending on the make of rod there could be a pin in the ferrule that will have to be removed.. Let us know the make of the rod and we can see if it's pinned.
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I guess it would depend on how well it was glued up and what kind of glue was used. I have at least two rods that were built around 1918 and I'm sure they were done with hide glue. I fish them at least a couple of times a year with no problem. If the rod has been maintained and there is no water damage, mildew, etc then it should be fine. I would worry more
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here's something different
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I needed to do a quick coat on a rod that was going to be used in a youth "learn to fly cast" session. I used clear Krylon. 2 light coats. All I needed was for the finish to look good for a few weeks and give the blanks some protection. that was 4 years ago and it still looks good.
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I used a Tour Star with an Aero seat. it fit fine but if I remember I had to squeeze it into the seat just a little. once it was started it was fine.
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Thanks guys. That just saved me money. That's why I asked. Now I'll just go and spend that on something else.
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I'm thinking of getting a laser alignment tool from Mudhole. If you use one, what are your thoughts? I'm building mostly fly rod so I'm curious how it will work for that also. Thanks for all your thoughts and comments.
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If it's really dry take your burnishing tool and press it on the wraps. don't rub it back and forth, just press it parallel to the blank. If it's dry enough the varnish will seperate from the thread and then you can go back and scrape it off with your fingernail. then recoat with CP and varnish. the other options is to clean the wraps with some DNA then cp and revarni
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I've used the black ones from Michael's craft store. 20 for a Dollar on sale. I can get one entire rod coated before the foam starts to soften and expand.
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Don Morse?
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use white silk and thin out the epoxy a bit. the wraps will go clear and the blank will show thru. Just a thought.
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In a nutshell yes. the flex coat lite should be thin enough to saturate the thread well. work the finish up the guide foot to push any bubbles trapped in the tunnel out. you may even want to slightly thin the lite version for the first coat. tension the spool not the thread itself. you don't need a ton of tension. you have the 00 size which is great. it
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I pretty much use mine the same as Randolph does. I've got the regular model and a Dremel knockoff with variable speed and a flex shaft.. the flex shaft one is really easy on the hands.
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MHX has a 3 pc 6'6" 3 wt
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Sorry, Tour Star
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I did one like that a few months ago and it worked fine. mind you it's a tight fit but it fit. Actually I almost hated for that go to go out the door. I really liked it.
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Mick, I bought a 3 jawed chuck from Grizzly when I bought my Rikon. I don't use it as much as I thought I would. send me a PM. we can maybe work something out.
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Those came in two different colors. The older ones were the natural brown glass while the later ones were more yellow. I think I've got one of the old brown ones kicking are undo or maybe an old wright and McGill rod that could be converted.
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check the schools official web site and search for school colors. every school has a Pantone color as their standard. Use that to match your color. some of the thread makers will list the matching Pantone color with their thread.
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The other option is to have the girlfriend give her guy a gift cert. for the rod. that way you can get all the measurements right. sometimes the girlfriends like the idea sometimes tehy just want to give something he can open. I've had it go both ways.
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the Snake Brand Universal guides are a dream to wrap. I usually use snake guides if there is even a chance of fishing in cold weather were they will ice up. much easier to clear ice off snakes than single foots.
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Not that it would work for everyone but my local Cabelas used to have a barrel in their bargain cave of broken rods. they were labeled ice rods and were like $2 ea.
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what Ron said. I have a source.
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would those be good center pin blanks??
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What about the Batson Revelation line? I've been thinking about a 9' 8 wt myself and that one come up often. I've built a couple of the Revelation spinning rods and customers love them. Also Rod Geeks whick I think are built on St Croix tapers. Plus you can get cool colors from Rod Geeks.
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I really can't say how it compares to hypalon since it's been awhile since I used Hypalon. they are softer than EVA. worst case is to buy a Win or tour Star and see and if you don't like it I'm sure you could sell it off here on the board.
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I used lemon yellow. The golden rod is a tad too orange
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