I may be wrong but I don't think anyone has "reproduced" such handles. But you should be able to find some old stock somewhere. I've seen those, the Lews types and even a few old Featherweights in the last few years.
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Probably have to overcoat with some sort of clear to protect it.
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Fly rods do not make up the bulk of my business so I am not as familiar with all the different makes and the strong suit of each. For that reason I left another popular brand of fly rod blanks and started buying the Pacbay Quicklines just because they had CCS numbers listed for them. I like seeing the numbers listed for bass and light saltwater blanks too, but those are not as important to me bec
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Just as it wouldn't make sense for them to list the length as "very long" it makes no sense in this day and age to list the action as "very fast." I wish I could help you with the numbers on that one but I've never used one of those blanks.
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You can sell the magazines. They contain way more good rod building information than you will find on the internet. And I emphasize that word "good." I get out my back issues some time and browse through them a bit and forget just how many far and wide topics the mag has covered in detail. Last night I went back into some of the earlier issues and re-read the article on photo etching, a
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Phil, you started off asking for some simple comparative information but then went to stuff that would be pretty involved and so not likely to be used by the companies or even understood by the consumers. IMO the genius behind Dr. Hanneman's CCS system is that all the dirty work has been done behind the scenes and reduced for the user into a few simple numbers that make comparing rods on just abo
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I have used emery boards to do much the same thing. Your product is probably a heck of alot better and longer lasting. Good tip. Thanks.
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You can shim a reel a few degrees up or down and it won't make any difference in casting. I've tried it. You can even set a reel up taped or clamped to a table and pull the line off from a pretty wide angle to the side. The tiny angle of the reel spool just does not make any difference. It won't affect anything until you get to really, really extreme angles. Plus like Tom said the instant the lin
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Phil, I really have a strong gut feeling that what you are after is already in the Common Cents System under the Common Cents Frequency section. This is what I think Tom is referring to as "speed." IMO this is the most underused portion of the CCS and definitely spells out the difference between the $85 and $850 rods, when there is a difference. If you have not tried taking these frequ
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Good call. I had a buddy drop a tackle box on a rod of mine and found the lengthwise splits the first time I picked it up and used it. Wasn't sure what had happened and he only fessed up about an hour later.
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I think what you want to do is look at the thread on the spool under magnification before you wrap with it and then do the same to the thread after it's been wrapped onto the guides. If there are no fuzzies on the spool but there are fuzzies on your guide wraps then something either in your tensioning set up or the way you handle the thread is creating those fuzzies.
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Yes, very nice work! I also look forward to seeing the details in the magazine.
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Good luck to you guys! One thing that confuses me is why rod building companies go to ICast? Do any custom builders attend that? Unless they are employed by tackle shops or are big time mass producers, could they even get in? I thought ICast was for tackle dealers. Always wondered why rod building companies go to ICast.
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Actually I think most of the sponsors do watch this page and most of the rod building companies in general watch this one daily, sponsor or not. At least that has been my experience. Never hurts to call but I bet you get a direct response within 24 hours.
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BTW, I'm pretty sure that all the St. Croix MOJO rods are built by Axiom.
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Every major player in the rod building industry advertises here, in the magazine and attends the Expo. Why would you think Tom wouldn't be in touch with these people and have good information as to what's what? I talked to Bob at the Expo this year. If I remember correctly, he said these are the same SCII and SVIV blanks sold by St. Croix. RodGeeks had chosen certain models to start with and p
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New issue has an story on "engineer's approach to guide spacing." The author talks about how great it is but unless I'm missing some pages he never gives any "how to" on what or how to actually do it. Will there be a second part to this article?
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In order of modulus- stiffness to weight, highest to lowest 1. Carbon- there are many grades of carbon fiber and they run up the scale in modulus. IM7 higher than IM6 etc. 2. S-Glass 3. E-Glass 4. Bamboo Somebody else can give you a lot more details than I can.
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Drill a little bitty hole in the end of the gimbal before you apply glue and slide it on. Problem solved. You will be impressed at how well this works and no more gimbal back off.
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The article on Center Pin rods was in Volume 14 issue 6.That same year you also had articles on Kite Rods and Spin-Fly Rods.
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Cork grips aren't taxable when sold as stand alone items?
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I haven't looked at specific models but you might try looking at Seeker and Lamiglas as two companies that make some different type stuff. They both have some interesting glass blanks in two piece models. No idea if either has what you're looking for but it's worth a shot.
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I'm pretty sure that Fuji once made special trolling rod guides for rods up to 130 thru Unlimited. American Tackle still makes some pretty stout ceramic guides for offshore rods. So really see no reason why you would need to worry about anything on a 50 pound set up.
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What color formica? I find a light blue or light green surface to be easiest on the eyes.
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My guess is that so did a few hundred others.
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I like them just as much as I do the St. Croix blanks I've built on. But this is no surprise since the Rodgeeks blanks are the same blanks they make for St. Croix.
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The choke guide should be 1215mm from the reel spool. How far the choke guide is from the tip of the rod doesn't matter.
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Roger, what type products are you selling? It might make a difference in this regard.
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Where? Rodmaker Magazine, Rodmaker Magazine and Rodmaker Magazine. Most all this stuff originate there at some point or another. There is also an online library at the top of this page and there are some articles posted there. I think the one on the Forhan wrap is in there. Take a look.
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Nice surprise bagged in with the new RM issue this time. I picked one up at the Expo but managed to lose it so this was a nice way to get a replacement with no effort on my part. Neat idea. Hope more do it. Nuno's article on the grip inlays may take that art form to a whole new level. I wonder about the ease of finding a shop to do the initial work. How easy is it to find companies that can do
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