Poke around enough and you will find it. Also read what Don wrote about it being "possible" that the two come from the same manufacturer. Or..... just pretend I made it all up. I won't lose any sleep over it.
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My evidence is what the thread manufacturer told me.
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A little bird told me...
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It's funny to hear people pit Prowrap against Makio without realizing that they're the same thread with different labels on them... Same people saying they hate Flexcoat CP but love the CP from U40.. All the same stuff.
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Cabelas once sold a line of rods to compete with the Shakespeare Ugly Stick called with Tuff Stix or Whuppin' Stix. I forget which, But my guess is that it is a private label rod made to compete with the Ugly Stick line.
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Mailing or shipping any product that contains a flammable solvent through either through the USPS, FedX or UPS will require an extra surcharge of from $10 to $35 and cannot be shipped by air. Failure to disclose that it has a flammable solvent in it is punishable by fine or worse.I have never used anything other than a water based CP so cannot say if the harsher solvent based types were better or
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Good article in new RM from Joe at Custom Fly Grips on rotary sanding. This could be the answer to keeping the surface level when turning grips made from different densities of materials. Going to give it some practice and see how it goes.
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Most companies do not publish that information so you are sort of on your own there. A few do though. So you can either buy a test fit set of guides in the least expensive ring material and keep those for setting up and then order exactly what you need. Depends on if you are out to build one or two rods or be in this for the long haul.
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Batson had some beautiful blue blanks at the Expo, I think these might be the Eternity models.
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Probably better to e-mail him directly. No guarantee he'll see your post here.
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The graphite is in the lower section which reduces the diameter and the weight. The overall action and material in the tip is still the same action and material. MH has them and they are a sponsor. I guess Anglers Wshp is still too.
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How many times is this Gudebrod nonsense going to come back? They stopped making thread at least ten years ago and yet have threatened to return every two or three years but never seem to actually make good on their statements. There was a guy at the EXPO last year that had bought ALL the remaining thread Gudebrod had left from the 1990's when they completely went backrupt. Believe what you w
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Just wrapping over it isn't going to work. You will need to reinforce it with either an inner or outer sleeve. There is an article in the online library here that covers most common rod breakage and how to fix them.
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On the Showplace vs Benton thing I really don't care. I'm there to see the exhibits, merchandise, seminars and talk to other builders from around the world. If it has a roof and heat the building you locate the show in doesn't matter one bit to me. I do like the better hotels and food places in WinstonSalem. My wife greatly prefers the current show for that reason alone.
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I think that on a fly rod your best bet is a grip that is both light and hard. Any grip that is the least bit spongy or soft will eventually tire out your hand. For a fly rod the grip needs to be extra firm.
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There must be four or five companies making the graphite type reel seats these days and most are better than ever. I don't worry about weight too much all the way at the back of the rod and most graphite seats weigh very little to begin with plus there are other benefits like a more secure grip on the reel, no corrosion or galling and they don't get scratched or show dings. Some fly guys don't li
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You won't like it for use on grips if that's what you want it for. The stuff sprays out stringy and incomplete. The brush on stuff is the only way to get a good even coverage on EVA pieces. I tried the spray can route, ruined a grip, and tossed it in the trash.
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I have always used a flat brush but can see now that I could go much wider than my 1/4 inch and be able to get the finish on much more quickly. Good tip.
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I always look for a rainy day to apply finish. I reasoned that it would reduce airborne dust and insects. Never had a case of blush and often do this with the windows open.
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You can always piece together two shorter grips with contact cement. The seam would barely show in most colors. Or you could even put a trim ring in the middle of the joint.
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That's as good as giving a name.
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They look like they are unfinished, which I like and think was a good idea by the maker, because every builder has a different choice of top coating. These could be a real time saver.
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Eight ounces of RodBond is less than $15 at most rod supply houses. FastBond is about the same. They were made especially for rod building chores and work like they're supposed to. Not saying other epoxies aren't any good or as good, but considering how long eight ounces will last and how many rods you can build with it I have not seen the need to try and save money by buying something else. My .
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I know you didn't ask about spinning outfits but will throw this out there for anybody else that might have to learn the hard way like I did, on a spinning outfit never put the keeper so that it is on top of the rod anywhere in front of the reel. On casting or retrieving in slack line situations the line can flip up and catch on the keeper and hang there. Always put the keeper on the bottom of th
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How many rods do you have to ship? Not sure I would put all my eggs in one basket. Maybe break up the shipment into several tubes. Of course more tubes equals more chance that at least one or two of them might go damaged or missing. But with all eggs in one basket, if that one tube failed to arrive to your new home, you're out everything. Just some ideas to consider.
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You can turn the rod by hand and will probably have to for narrow trims and bands. Power wrapping is really more for longer wraps and underwraps where there is a huge time savings. You can look at the thread tension units on the different machines and tell how many spools they will hold. Switching from one thread to another is as easy as just picking up a new thread. Expect some slight learning
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You'll never know the difference and if the bigger seat is more comfortable you might find that you consider it more sensitive in the long run.
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If you get a blank that isn't in a plastic bag with a decal either on or included beware.
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I think the days of ring grooving due to braided line use is pretty much over if you stick with good quality name brand guides. ALPs is a good brand and hard running crankers on braid isn't going to affect them in the least even after many years.
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I wouldn't expect you to go back and run numbers for every blank Batson has offered in the past. Way too much work I know. But for current offerings it would seem to make good sense and allow more people to make these comparisons. As quick companies discontinue blanks these days its nice to be able to slide over and find something similar from another company if you need it.
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