Tom, I don't think I know Vic...
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Les Cline Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Chris, > > Great find! > > The interesting part for me is what you learned > that opened your mind to Kung Fu. > > What was your paradigm shift? What made you go, > "Oh! I'll never be the same after this!" ?? One thing that was kinda freaky is on page 193 there is refere
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > There are other books from the same era you might > be interested in if you don't have them - C. Boyd > Pfeiffer's "Tackle Craft" came out in '74 and was > expanded and updated in 1999. Plenty of custom rod > building chapters within both. "How to make your > own fishing rods"
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I been building rods a long time. Most of that time I was in my own vacuum of knowledge. There was no internet, I didn't know about any groups or magazines. I did however have access to several builders and learned a lot from them. For the most part you buy the components, glue up a handle and tie on the guides and fish. We all know there is much more to it than that. Yesterday I was at Mc
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Daryl Ferguson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Looks fine to me. I put mine a little farther out, > but that’s just a personal preference. I also > place them on the side, perpendicular to the top > of the rod. That said, I don’t put hook keepers > on rods I build for myself. Also, the drop shot > keeper is very popular (at least with the
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Looks OK.
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Richard Bowers Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have been able top register and upload a couple > photos of the unidentified rod - any assistance > would be appreciated. They are in the > Miscellaneous category... although while it said > they were uploaded, I cannot see them. Try reducing the size of the photo. It wont show up if its too
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Marc Morrone Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > After casting a couple of > hours, I notice the last foot or so to get a > little "curly". Marc...I notice this happens even with ceramic guides. Its just a byproduct of repeated casting...a sign to re-tie.
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Ryan Edamatsu Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Permagloss appears to be sold out on sites like > Mudhole. Where else can you buy them? Try the manufacturer.
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Ryan Edamatsu Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > U40 cork sealer appears to be sold out on sites > like Mudhole. Where else can they be aquired? You can get it directly from U-40:
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chris c nash Wrote: > I've been unsuccessful finding the specific > mentioned pad's from that article in local stores > so I just looked them up online and bought the > right kind that way . Lowes and Home depot > carry Scotchbrite pads but they didn't have ( > Type-S-7448 Grey-ultra fine and Type-S-7446 > Grey-medium fine) I was looking for when I checked > m
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Ryan Edamatsu Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks for the info, Chris. I never heard of this > concept before. Where can I find the Scotchbrite > you mention? I've only seen the dark green pads > for dishwashing in stores. I use the ones from the store...but you can get other (finer) grits from Lowes or Home Depot. Be sure to read the artic
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The scratch doesnt look all that deep... But...if it really bothers you... Create a stint from an old rod: About an inch long and slightly wider than the scratch. Rough up the area on your blank with a green scotch bright pad and epoxy and wrap the stint in situ.
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Ernie Blum Wrote: > So is there another gadget known as a "rod dryer"? Ernie...what you have is called a "rod dryer". Also called a finish curing device/machine. There is however a tent that can enclose the motor and stand. Example at :
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One solution would be to remove the guides. Give it a light roughing with a green Scotch Bright pad. Then apply a coating of PermaGloss.
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I like it Gary...I have one just like that myself I use for a Ned Rod. Others I have (TN handle), have a small amount of cork for a foregrip.
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I'm using Titebond II...mixed in with a cork saw dust.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Fenwick ordered a large amount of special color > brown thread from Gudebrod in the late 60's or > early 70's. It became a mainstay in their rod > production. Gudebrod sold the same color to > consumers under the name of, what else.... Fenwick > Brown. > > .............. If I remember c
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Traditionally Fenwick fiberglas was wrapped in brown.
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Harry Sandoval Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I went thru a lot of trouble getting the guides > perfect before wrapping only to move them all a > bit in the wrapping process. Next time I will get > everything close, but skip perfection until > wrapped. (And this may just be me)....but I will use a pen (white Sakura Gelly Roll 08) to mark w
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Yup...ProKöte takes longer to fully cure.
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I use Rogers technique above... 1. Take a pair of slip joint pliers , and using the pliers in its extended position, chew the cork off the blank. But after that I will take a dull bladed knife and just scrape off the remaining cork. You can also get an idea of what kind of glue they used and if it (glue) is coming off easily from the blank. If it does come off easy...you may be able to ju
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David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I've put the pull through loop in facing the wrong > direction a couple of times. David...that doesn't even count. I think El Bolinger pretty much has us all beat with this:
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I had two sets of epoxy on the bench and mixed 3cc of resin from one batch and 3cc of resin from the other batch. I do have another weird rod related story: I was wading a river once with a friend. He made a cast and the line popped and his lure went flying. He did'nt think much of it and retied. The next cast...the same thing, lure goes flying. He commented that it was new line...strippe
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The length on a drift rod is to primarily keep the line out of the water. It has other advantages like better hook set and less hang ups. I have never read that its because its more sensitive. They are long for the same reason an ice rod is short.
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I disagree with totally dismissing > transmissibility as a factor in sensitivity. It's > not all about length, IMO. I agree with your disagreement....and heres why. Would it make sense to say that a rod 30 feet long would be more sensitive than a 6 foot rod? No. Vibrations are waves and waves dis
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Lance...Once your able to login...you will see a menu option that says "Upload Photo".
Forum: rodboard

Grant Darby Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > On a 10' rod, you may be able to get the butt cap > off, cut the rod at the top of the foregrip and > fit a new blank inside. I would definitely try this ^
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original comments redacted
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Billy Vivona Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Rick Handrick Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Wow - didn't expect that kind of fanboy venom > for that one. Alrighty then. > > Truth injury, get this guy a medic!! I thought "fanboy venom" was pretty clever...maybe an Italian blood lin
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