Daryl Ferguson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I’m with Norman. It’s not about the weight, > it’s the cost for me. I also cut senkos in half > versus buying Ned rig worms. I guess it’s just > the bean counter (retired CPA) in me. I pour both Senkos and Neds with my own plastisol mix, but typically store bought Senko's will sink while a Neds flo
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David...I figured you missed it. Norm kinda hit the mark below with the cost. A RSA-22 from MudHole cost $2.79. Its length is 12cm...I will make an arbor about 2cm in width...thats end up about $0.465 cents each. Its a battle on two fronts...keepin the cost down and the weight down.
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Joshua Soneson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- >... I came up with spacing: > > 3.75 - 4.25 - 4.75 - 5.25 - 5.75 - 6.7 - 7.9 - 9.7 (inches) > 9.5 - 10.8 - 12.1 - 13.3 - 14.6 - 17.0 - 20.0 - 24.5 (cm) > Ah...kudos for using metric. One thing I like to do is look at the "difference" between the guides. In your case above: Sp
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David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have a polyurethane arbor for a 18mm reel seat. > It's 4.25" long. The glue area of that arbor would > be 9.35 square inches. Lets say the layer of epoxy > needed to install that arbor is .020" thick. You'd > need less than 2/10 of a cubic inch of epoxy to > cover the entire surface
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Colter Scott Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- >... want to epoxy it in so it's solid. What are you going to epoxy in?
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Lynn Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Something causes page 3 of this thread to run off > the right side of my screen. Pages 1 and 2 appear > normally. Yeah...that was the pictures I had in a post...I have since change it to just the links.
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Yes...that the Bushido insert...and yes that a SLX 151. I did one insert with a hydo-dip camo on it that turned out pretty good.
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David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > >... did you build it up locking, or > down locking? Down locking. example 1 example 2
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Mike Ballard Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > A LOT of people fish rods with seats and grips > that are way too small. They just do not know it > because they have not tried something better. If > they fish factory rods they almost surely fish > with seats that are too small. I have clients with > high end premium saltwater fly rods with gr
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John Santos Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- >... A larger handle may “feel” > better initially, and you may even be able to use > your whole hand to hold it with a death grip > better, yet that may not necessarily be the best > for casting. Maybe casting techniques influence > what type of grip works better, but I, personally, > prefe
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I think 2 - 2.5 inches of cork (or carbon or EVA) would be perfect.
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Daniel Huckabee Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > After I service the reel what paint manf and clear > sealer is recommended? > Have tried different types for both but so far not > working out. > Looking for some advice from others please. I've had some pretty good results with rattle-can Rustolium paint and sealer. A good prep regimen is cr
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Lynn BeHhler Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ... these guys just throw stuff out there and we sit here trying to figure out how to use it. MudHole sells an American Tackle Bushido insert thats 15mm O.D. Add that with the hood...add 10 more grams and about $5-$10 more bucks.
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Jason Vormbaum Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I can throw handles and guides on blanks but what would it be good for? People still use glass rods for: Swimbait, crankbait, catfish, slow jig...and on and on.
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I been useing UV resin for about three years now and I think it has its place on the work bench. I primarily use it to just tack something down...like fiberglass tape, it helps stop it from wanting to unwind. I have also use it on thread and it does a decent job as a finish...also a finish on lures. At the end of the day...I would still go with epoxy for a glue and a finish. UV resin undoubte
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My apologies Micheal....I thought maybe you were confused. But if you were going to turn an Aero around and fish it up locking...Why would you use THAT reel seat. Seems like it causes more problems than it solves.
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You can build the Aero up-locking, too, Michael...that Aero has a palm swell that makes it usually a down locking reel seat.
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I'm on board. I think they will be hit....already seeing them on Diawa products (AGS).
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BY THE ASSOCIATED PRESS Updated 12:02 PM CDT, November 2, 2023 Today Roger Wilson was inducted as the sixth member of The Leaders of the New School. Dinco D was reported to say,"Ehhh". Busta Rhymes commented,"Dude can wrap". Cut Monitor Milo, master of the spinning lever arm welcomed the addition.
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david taylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you are not using syringes, what is your method? Hmm....maybe were talking about the same thing? I use the syringes...I also use the bottle caps made for the syringes. I should have asked you "HOW" you were wasting your mix. Is is left over mix that unused or (as I thought) are you sticking the
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david taylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The truth of the issue is that syringes are the > easiest method but cause waste. David...we are'nt sticking the syringes in the bottle any more...there is no waste.
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Lynn Wrote: (Tom: why is (Lynn's last name) a banned word?) ------------------------------------------------------- > You better do the 3 cc thing. The 3 cc measuring was pretty standard for me for many years. Most of those years were pouring into a measuring cups or (at times) a shot glass and comparing the remaining levels of the resin and hardener. I couldnt agree more with Toms a
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Bruce Tarbet Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > - For me, the weight method reduced the air the > syringes seemed to suck in and my hands don't hold > the bottle and manipulate the plungers easily. Bruce...If you use the Self-sealing Bottle Cap Syringe Inserts you will solve a bunch of problems. Put the inserts in the bottle...stick in the syringe
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No problem... FWIW...Sometimes I will add some burl cork to a grip. A plain cork ring weighs 1.6 grams and a burl ring weighs 4.1 grams. (this will vary) Doing this now on some E-Glass rods I'm building.
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John Cates Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Chris > To help with the life span of the EBC, thoroughly wipe the > liquid epoxy with a paper towel first. > Thats how we do it.
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David...I'm guessing you already know about these...but in case you dont :
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I been using the #6F brushes since February and love em. I've also been using the brush cleaner and REALLY love that. I put small amount in a bottle and keep cleaning the brushes with it. I'm not 100% sure when I need to throw out the old solution.
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Aleks Maslov Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > While higher modulus of a blank can be an > indicator of higher/better sensitivity, it is > definitely not a rule or a "law" of sensitivity. Well...there ya go. Thanks for the update.
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Listening to the interview with Vic Cutter now... Scratching my head about reading about Vic in Dale Clemens book and now the interview with Bill Falconer...kinda spooky. What an amazing career Vic has had.
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Another gem from the books, in the acknowledgment section was a special thanks to Lamiglas chief rod designer, Gary Loomis. I build a ton of rods on the GW72MH, M, ML back then.
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