I have cut 6" off the butt of a REVCB66M and absolutely love this rod. It has a 10" Texalium Tennessee handle and Pflueger TRI20. I fish a Neg, Slider and Damiki rigs. I know 6' is short by today's standards but this is blessing to fish all day.
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I stand when I flip (technically pitchin), so I can get away with a little longer handle...which is about 12.5 inches. The longer handle comes in handy as leverage against the body. The rod is 7' 2"...(I'm about 5' 11")...that length of a rod allows me pitch a jig without the tip hitting the water. My flippin rod is about 7' 6".
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I really like the Sakura Jelly Roll 08 for markingon blanks...but I am definitely getting a set of those Hiboom carpenter pencils for the shop. Thanks for that tip.
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It says on the website that they are a distributer of American blanks: Talon, Thrasher, Seeker and Patriot Factory.
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Scott Grady Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Over the years I have ended up with older > components like reelseats and guides. > I hate to just throw them out. > Any ideas? > Scott I suggest you give them to another rod builder. (email me for address)
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Chris Rosell Wrote: > I still am a big believer in how Dale thinks in building, forms a great foundation. Dale Clemons attributes most of his knowledge to past builders and shared publications. In his forward to Advanced Rod Building he says, "None of us is naive enough to think that he necessarily invented the technique or was the first rod builder to ever use it."
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What is a tiptop shock ring? Have you ever seen the old fuji guides that glowed in the dark? That material was plastic and was also called a shock ring.
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phil sweeney Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Even Clemens recommended epoxy back in the day. > During the build, I usually take it on and off > with glue sticks. Clemens mentioned the "standby for installing tip-top was a daub of thermoplastic ferrule cement" (aka hot-melt glue). He goes on to mention that heating a ceramic guide would
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Ernie Blum Wrote: > And of course...if you can be that precise in > depositing product into a cup whereby the scenario > described above does not occur, then all that > measuring baloney is moot. Touché Ernie...always the good sport. I use to measure by squeezing out resin and hardener into a cup. Then I would stand the resin and hardener bottles next to each other and ma
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Ernie Blum Wrote: >... But trying to weigh each part > seems more like an exercise in futility if you ask > me. And how is it done? Do you weigh two parts > separately in two containers and mix them in the > end? Adding one component from one container into > another will result in leaving that little bit of > material stuck to the container from one of those >
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You can report a phishing site (no pun intended) here:
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Frank Petroczky Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Chris - I'm quite particular about my work > environment and cleanliness doesn't get > overlooked. Frank...I wasnt really addressing the cleanliness of your environment...because I have no idea what that would be. Really...after all, All the thread burnishing, dust collecting, tent drying and fini
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > "The only prep was to clean the rod." > > Chris, I think some detail on this should be > given. Some might take this to mean clean with > alcohol, and many do not recommend using any fluid > for clean up. I just wipe with dry lint free > paper towel and blow on it to make sure
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Frank Petroczky Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > First time rod builder here. >.... or can I just apply the next coat right on top like normal ? I think you will be fine just applying another coat. I have done plenty of repairs on rods where I would give the existing thread work another coat of epoxy with no problems. The only prep was to clean th
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“Don’t be an art critic, but paint, there lies salvation.” – Paul Cézanne
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Welcome Jim #1 Is line rub a problem? Potentially...yes. The fact that there is rub, indicates that the line is transitioning from some guides at a sharper angle than others. What does that mean? Maybe not much, but over the course of a day of catching a lot of fish and not retying you line at all....it could amount to some line stretch. This would be worse if you like to boat flip too. #
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Charlie Safley Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > "It's an All-Star flipping stick...MH/MF" > > Thanks. > > Any thoughts about how ill advised it would be to > build it as a spinning rod? I think it works.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It is almost certainly either an All-Star, > Castaway or Shikari. I don't have a catalog in > front of me so I cannot say for sure which it is. > > .......... It's an All-Star flipping stick...MH/MF
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Ron Weber Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- >... rather they are Delrin to aid in the holding ability and reduce > wear from metal on metal contact I gotta admit...I had to look up Delrin.
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Jeffrey Merlino Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > My only concern is I will very likely thin my epoxy > with a little bit of Acetone and I don't want it > to run or bleed. Recently I have seen a Sharpie bleed through the wraps and also smear on lures I've finished. I was using ProKote and I dont really remember this happening with FlexCoat...but its
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Because masking tape can break down over time... Some masking tape adhesives are rubber-based. These kinds of tape are sensitive to: oxygen, heat, ultraviolet exposure...and will eventually oxidize and become dry and brittle. Source: Addressing Shelf Life Questions for Pressure Sensitive Adhesives by Scott
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Michael....You always agree with Tom on everything!
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I'm not like an EVA jedi but, There is nothing special about the thinner....basically some kind of solvent. (lighter fluid, mineral spirits...not sure about alcohol). You would use this for when the ID of the EVA is smaller than the area above where you have epoxy. Put the epoxy on first...then put solvent inside the EVA...pour it out and then install it. Toms example below is basically u
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The thinner is acting like a lubricant to get the grip slide down the rod. Once its where you want it the thinner evaporates.
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I would take the hood off. Install the seat. Glue the sleeve on the hood while its off and let them both cure. Then put the cured hood back on.
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phil sweeney Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I’d be curious any comments or concerns? Phil...the only thing I would consider is this: Is the blank straight? If its not straight...then I would build it on the straightest axis.
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Some food for thought... Air is occupying space in the thread...whether its NCP or not. Once you apply finish, as the finish saturates the thread...the air starts to release. The thicker the finish, the further the air needs to travel to escape. Also...the more viscous the finish...the harder it is for the air to escape. IMO...its always a good safe bet to apply a thin coat first. Als
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Michael Tarr Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- ... > To have accurate casting it’s all about practice > not where the guides are located. I can accurately > cast any of my rods no matter where the guides are > attached to the blank, what material the blank is > made from, or how much the blank cost. A few warm > up cast and you should be able
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- >.... I horizontally rotate the > blank so convex side of the blank is down and the > concave side is down. which puts the blank tip > pointing up. hmm...did you mean concave side up? ... >Placing guides > this way gives you the straight axis, and also > allows gravity to straighten t
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Les Cline Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You tie flies, Chris? > > UV resin (cured with a UV light source) is big in > fly tying circles. Nice tip about this technology > for rod builders! Les...Not real big into fly tying. But I do make lures. I tie jigs, make balsa baits and pour plastics. Wrapping (tying) on stuff to flippin and pitch
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