Hi Everyone - I'm building a CTS Affinity X 8-weight that will be uplined to a #9 Wulff Bermuda Triangle. I'm using all REC guides for the guide train - CERECOIL double-foot for the strippers and RECOIL double-foot snakes. I'm wondering what the advantages of going with 3 strippers vs 2 would be: 16 12 (strippers) and then 8 3s all the way out or 16 12 10 (strippers) and then 7 3s all
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Thomas Bell Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The 7 wt I built for Bones I wish I'd never bought. > I've built MHX's from 3 wt to 8 wt. The trout > blanks I like, the heavier saltwater blanks not so > much. Thomas - can you elaborate on what your didn't like about the heavier MHX rods? I'm considering a 9' 8 wt build and MHX is a leading conte
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Thanks Herb. Sent you an email. Re REC guides - for double-foot guides would the RSNXB Black Pearl RECOIL Double Foot Snake Guides be the recommendation? Thanks, Mike J
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I've never been fly fishing in saltwater but I am starting to plan a trip next spring and an 9' 8 wt is in the cards. This will end up being used for the occasional saltwater trip and carp fishing locally. Blanks - I'd like to keep the blank under $175 and am looking at the CF4 Rodgeeks and the MHX. I'm a pretty competent and accurate caster from 25-40 feet but have never had to learn to doub
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Herb - Earlier this year it was announced that CTS was going to do a euro-specific blank (the FY series). Are those available yet?
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Why no 10'6"? That is a preferred length by some especially in the 3 weight.
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I've also been looking for Euro specific blanks. It seems like a lot of things out there may just be longer rods in lighter weights and not specifically designed for Euro nymphing. I have seen some euro-specific blanks on a website that is not a sponsor so I don't know if I can share that here. No experience with them though.
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Hi Paul - I just started building fly rods a couple of months ago and have built 6 already including a couple of 8' 6" 4 weights. I've become partial to the Lemke reel seats (LC1) for their quality plus the wooden inlays just look cool. For the 4 weights, I've used size 10 for the stripping guide, then a size 2 snake, and then 1/0 to the tip. Snake brand universals are really easy to build
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You need to do nothing after sanding other than > cleaning DRY with tack cloth, tape, as Roger said. > Anything else introduces the risk of > contamination or some other screw up. > > Keep in mind that if you have been careful in the > sanding process there are no contaminants. And if
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Once you start building a rod, after an initial > clean up of the blank, put the DNA away and don't > use it. > > Especially when it comes to finish work, DNA is > just something else to muck up the works. > > After doing any sanding, just use a tack rag, or a > piece of masking
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Guide wraps are turning out great but I'm still working on my technique for epoxy over decals. Made all of the rookie mistakes on one: too much epoxy, playing it with too much, contamination causing a fish eye. You name it, I probably did it wrong on this one. I've been carefully sanding it down with fine gator sponge which I've found to be pretty good for the task. I'm getting to fairly level a
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My first build 2 months ago was with a Mudhole turn-key kit. Got me going and wanting to continue.
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Marc Schwitters Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have built 2 rods on the Winston WT blank. In my > case they were both 7' 2 wt but they make a blank > in the parameters you are asking about. I paired > the with single foot fuji Ti guides and Golden > Witch slip ring reel seats and they turned out to > be two of the best rods I have ever
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Ron Weber Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have both a 7'6" 3 and a 4 wt that I build on, > and they definitely do not even come close to > putting a strain on the bank account Okay. You've got my attention Ron. Care to share any more details on what and where you get them?
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Norman - welcome to your new addiction. I just started building 2 months ago and am my 6th build. I've just done fly rods but am looking to build a bass rod so I'm interested in the comments you get.
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I would love to build on a fiberglass blank but, unfortunately, more $ than I'm willing to spend on a niche rod for me. Phil - this type of build is what I really had in mind. Do you mind sharing the source of your blank?
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Looking for a true 3 weight blank in roughly this length. Preference is 4 piece. MHX and Revelation are on the list but hoping for something a little lower in price as this would not be a high use rod for me. I would consider the Unity but it appears they only make this in a 2-piece which I find out a bit odd. Thanks, Mike J
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Andrew McDermott Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It will help eliminate the decal edges being seen. Have you found CP or thread finish easier to use as the undercoat? Or does it make a difference?
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Just received my first custom decals from Decal Connection. They were great to work with. The instructions say to put a coat of epoxy or CP on the blank where the decal will go. Has anyone noticed a difference? Is one easier to work with than the other for applying the decal over?
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I would find the straightest axis on each section > and assemble it that way. Spine is not really of > any importance, but in the vertical plane you'll > want the rod to be as straight as possible. > > .................. Sorry but I'm spatial challenged so what does building on the straightest
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Thank for the suggestions. Everything, so far, is for freshwater and are for me and buddies. Definitely for catching fish.
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First off, thanks to everyone on this forum for your willingness to share your knowledge and experience with those of us that are new to rod building. I've completed 3 fly rods over the last month and have 2 more waiting to be built. For all of my builds so far I've been using Snake brand low-profile stripping guides since I've been using snake universal running guides. I know there are a lot of
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Thanks everyone. To me it seems that the rod position recommendation by CRB results in wraps way too tight when wrapping fly rods.
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CRB says with proper tension on thread, the tension rod will point at your chest (basically parallel to the table). I've found that if I wrap with this amount of tension, there is no way after wrapping both feet of a snake guide that I can adjust the guide with any amount of pressure. If you are using the HWS-1, where do you have the tension rod pointing when wrapping? How easily should you b
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Donald La Mar Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I'm with Herb, 1s out to the tip top for a 5 > weight. Are you guys just concerned about knots hanging up? I've seen people recommend 1/0s for up to 6 weights? In any case, what would be the guide train that you would use?
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I normally use two ringed guides on any fly rod, > even lighter weight rods because under load the > butt carries most of the load and ringed ceramics > or similar in those positions makes sense. But it > would only take you a half hour to try some > different guide arrangements and find the one
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Thanks for the advice on my 2nd rod build (8'6" 4 weight). I was able to fish it Saturday over on the Deschutes. First fish I landed with it was a 16" redside fooled with a caddis dry in the waning light of the day. I've now built a 6 weight for streamers and the 4 weight for most of my dry fly fishing. Now, I going to build a 9' 5 weight to replace my old Orvis. Assuming I start
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Thanks for the advice everyone. I went with a Lemke reel seat with a beautiful insert and the snake litewire eco guides. I used the 10mm stripper then went down to #2 and then 1/0 snakes. It's in the rod dryer now. Still have to get better at not leaving thread nubs...
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Thanks Ron and Michael. Got it all put together with no problem. Thanks, Mike J
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Michael - thanks for the detailed response. This is fantastic. When you glue the front hood on, what are you trying to line up? The bottom hood rotates freely so I'm not sure what you need to line up. Do you scuff up the top of the wood insert before putting the front hood on? Thanks, Mike J
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