Herb Ladenheim Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The original Euro-X IS still available with the > hollow graphite tip. > > The new Euro-XY with graphite solid tip has a > softer tip - without added weight due to fact that > it is depowered. > Herb Sorry did you mean XS and not XY or is the XY a 3rd variant not on their website yet?
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Thanks for responding Herb but did you mean XS = solid and X = hollow tip? What are the advantages of one vs the other? By the way, I no longer see the Euro X on their website. Thanks, Mike J
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Does anyone know the difference between the Euro X and Euro XS? Both are listed on this page: However, when you click into the Euro X, it goes to the Euro XS page. Thanks, Mike J
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You'll probably get lots of different opinions but a 16, 12, and then 8 size 2 double-foot snake guides would probably be my starting point. The running guides just need to be able to pass the biggest knot you'll have. I always buy an extra running guide or two in case the static load tests suggest it wants an extra guide. - Mike J
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Hi Abe - I have the 9 wt NFC LMX as well as the GammaBetas in 7,10, and 12. I like casting the LMX just as much as the GBs. For the money, the LMX is very good rod. Wrapping them can be a bit a of pain though. Thanks, Mike J
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Hi Tyler - I'm getting ready to build a 9 wt Gamma Beta for a friend. Here's my build sheet for it: Blank: North Fork Composites 9' 9wt GammaBeta (0.470" butt diameter) Fighting Butt: Baston CCFB-3 (Super Grade Cork/HDCC Fighting Butt) Reel Seat: Alps RA701L2-B (Aluminum Fly Reel Seat - Black) Handle: Baston FW7.375CS-340/865 (Full Well Super-Grade Cork Handle) Winding Check: TBD
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Nick McCasey Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I know this topic is somewhat old, but when I > built my nymphing rod (11' 3wt CTS Affinity MX) I > did what Ron mentioned above. I used a lemke up > locking reel seat and had Ron make me a fighting > butt that accepted the recessed hood, and then > added a down locking seat finish ring to put
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Thanks Tom and Spencer. I appreciate the feedback. Thanks, Mike J
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Hi Everyone - Looking for a sanity check on guide choices for a NFC GammaBeta 12 weight I'm building. First target for the rod will be GTs on Christmas Island. Here's what I'm thinking: Guides 1 Baston TIMXNZG20 Size 20 Titanium Medium 2 Baston TIMXNZG12 Size 12 Titanium Medium 3 REC RSNX Size 5 (RECOIL SNAKE GUIDE IN NATURAL TITANIUM FINISH) 4 REC RSNX Size 5 5 REC RS
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I just received that exact same blank (FASY1267-4) and, I too, am exited to build on it. I thought for sure they would have the recommended guide spacing at: After looking at the table, I have to say I'm confused... They have guide spacing for a FASW1267-4 but not a FASY1267-4 but the don't sell a FASW1267-4. Is this just a typo in the guide spacing table? Mike J
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Love 'em. Most of the fly rods I build have an LC1 on them. Really like the champagne color. - Mike J
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One thing you may want to consider is that instead of running single foot guides all the way to the tip, use double foot snakes on the last couple. I've read that this can help prevent leader/tipper from wrapping around the guides.
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Got it. Thanks everyone. The corrected order makes sense. Thanks, Mike J
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I built my first rod a little over 2 years ago from a kit. The little instruction booklet that came with the kit only applied one coat of thread finish so that's what I did. I'd like to apply a second to clean things up. The rods has been fished, man-handled etc so here's what I'm thinking: 1. Use some scotch-brite to scuff up the first coat 2. Use some Dawn to get any oils, etc off the first
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gary Marquardt Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Just finished a 10’ 4 wt faf. Amazing blank. I have one on order to use as a dry fly rod. Thanks, Mike J
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Mike, > I am curious as to why you choose not to use gaps > of only 1/16th inch. If you had, you use much less > epoxy and you have a solid interior under the cork > with no breaks nor voids? > > I am sure you have a good reason, just wondering > what it is. > > Take care
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Ron Schneider Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Just watch for "Voids" between arbors of any kind > when dealing with a cork grip. > I had a local builder years ago try to save time > on a fly rod with too big a gap between tape > arbors under the grip. > It resulted in a void (possibly not enough epoxy > under), which in the f
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Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I did use tape arbors and epoxy. I've used tape in the past under reel seats but I know there are differing opinions on this. My main concern was the 11" length. I rationalize the weight penalty telling myself that the weight is in the butt section and the rod will always be used casting with two-hands. I did reach out to the retailor who said to use t
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Thanks Robert and Roger for weighing in and sharing. I've used plenty of tape arbors under reel seats so my primary concern is really the length of the foregrip (11") and it's not metal so it's flexible. With 1/8" tape and 1" spacing as suggested by Robert, that is still 10ish arbors to build. With 1/2' tape with 1/16" spacing (wow) as suggested by Roger, that's close to 2
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Here's my dilemma - I purchased a trout spey kit and the bore for both the foregrip and the rear grip is larger than the blank. The handle bore is about 0.42", the blank is about 0.38" at the bottom of the foregrip and where the top will be is about 0.33." I've read some of the past threads but had some questions about different approaches. First approach - use tape arbors.
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I need to buy some REC winding checks and need some advice on getting the right size. I've dry fit the fighting butt, reel seat, and handle on the blanks so I've been able to measure where the WC will go. For instance, on one blank I measure 25/64". The REC WCs are sized in 1/64" increments. I know I need to go a little larger than the measurement so should I go to up one size to 26/64&
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Stan Daubinawski Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Better luck then I had. I sent an email to their > customer service address and also called them and > didn't get a response. I'm in the same boat Stan. No response and going on 7 weeks of waiting for my blanks.
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I think you've missed one of the main points of a "kit." As others have said, it's a gateway to this hobby/addiction. Kits allow someone new to try things out easily. I built my first fly rod about 18 months ago. I started with an all-in-one kit from Mudhole. Why? Because it included EVERYTHING needed to complete the rod. As Tom said, the number of components is mind-boggling these d
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thin wire guides used on the lower powered rods, > saves weight. Beat me to it. From Sage's rod building pages: "The "t" at the end of a guide size stands for thin wire or light wire guide - examples: 1/0t or 1t"
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i just built a CTS 8# and used all REC guides: 16, 12 REC CERECOILs and then #3 REC double-foot snakes. Primary use will be saltwater. I did just order a couple of GammaBetas and noticed they recommended 9 guides rather than 10.
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Lance Schreckenbach Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Any of the above mentioned blanks are good and > could be what you consider the best fly rod you > ever built. I prefer NFC especially for the price, > although I don't think you could go wrong with any > of the other blanks mentioned. It's like shooting > at the ground, you can't miss.
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hard to beat Eternity II. There's a curveball. Normally they would be another $50 per blank but GetBit has a 20% sale now on Eternity 2 blanks. That means the price per blank is $175 so a little lower than the GammaBeta sale price. What weights have you built? Batson bills these as extra fast. Anyone have e
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Thanks Phil. I appreciate the input.
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Too many choices and I’m way over-thinking this but I’m looking to add a 9’ 7-weight and a 9’ 10-weight to the Affinity-X 8-weight I just built for a trip to Belize next year. The 7-weight will be for bonefish on calmer days and the 10-weight for permit and juvenile/resident tarpon. The 7-weight will likely also be used for some local carp fishing. I spent a little more than I was planning on
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Thanks everyone. I'm sticking to my normal practice of 2. Thanks, Mike J
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