First off, thanks to everyone on this forum for your willingness to share your knowledge and experience with those of us that are new to rod building. I've completed 3 fly rods over the last month and have 2 more waiting to be built. For all of my builds so far I've been using Snake brand low-profile stripping guides since I've been using snake universal running guides. I know there are a lot of other options (way too many in fact) so...what is your favorite brand and model to use as the stripping guide on a fly rod?

Thanks,
Mike J

The Pac Bay "N" guides look a lot like a snake guide with a ceramic ring, I also like the looks and foot prep on the Hopkins & Halloway strippers.

I use a variety of guides for the Stripper. Like Spencer, one of my favorites is the Pay Bay N, I also use the Pac Bay Minima's and Pac Bay XB's, just depends on the "look" I am trying to achieve or customer request. Agates are also popular on a lot of the Fiberglass builds that I do.

I wish Pac Bay would do a Minima in a TiC Frame or Gunsmoke with a matching ring color.

Snake Brand all the way for running guides.

Any high frame spinning guide works well as a fly rod stripping guide.

...............

Lefty Kreh recommended finishing your fly cast by touching the tip of your stripping hand forefinger to the tip of your thumb, forming an "OK" symbol, with cast fly line passing through the center of the "O" - in effect creating another "guide" and eliminating big loops in your line before they reach your first rod guide. He claimed this allowed you to use a smaller, lighter first guide, perhaps eliminate the first guide altogether, and by doing so reduce the swing weight of you rod. [In addition, the rod can be stored in a considerably thinner rod tube]. It worked for him.

I thought Lefty was the one touting the use of the tall spin butt guide..he can,t seem to make up his mind..lol.

Phil Ewanicki Wrote:
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> Lefty Kreh recommended finishing your fly cast by
> touching the tip of your stripping hand forefinger
> to the tip of your thumb, forming an "OK" symbol,
> with cast fly line passing through the center of
> the "O" - in effect creating another "guide" and
> eliminating big loops in your line before they
> reach your first rod guide. He claimed this
> allowed you to use a smaller, lighter first guide,
> perhaps eliminate the first guide altogether, and
> by doing so reduce the swing weight of you rod.
> [In addition, the rod can be stored in a
> considerably thinner rod tube]. It worked for him.

Yes - the "O" formed with your line hand does in fact act as a stripping guide and does tame the line as it goes through the stripper. But is difficult to do with a very energetic haul with a "snap" at the end of the haul.

Mike,
You do not specify weight of the rods or where the rods will be used - Salt or Fresh water. Both matrter.

I have used Snakebrand enough times to f]discover that they stain in saltwater. It happens at the wrap/guide interface. Probable where salt MAY intrude at micro cracks at bast of the guide. Just a guess though. But however it happens - it is annoying to me. So the only guides I use are either those of a Nickel/Titanium alloy (REC) of Titanium (I like Fuji).

If you haven't seen the new REC Cerecoil strippers - you should do so. Same material as all REC guides - Nickel/Titanium alloy.


Herb



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/10/2020 09:58AM by Herb Ladenheim.

No, no, no. Zero through about 5 weight the only option is an agate stripper - period. Anything else is completely unacceptable in polite company. For heavy 6, 7 & 8 weights for use in fresh water use what you will. For the salt the strippers must be Ti - it's not negotiable.

Not that I'm opinionated.

I am unable to find one SPECK of evidence about how or even IF the size of the first guide, its distance from the reel, or its ring material improves or diminishes a fly rod's casting efficiency! There is MUCH more information available about complimentary colors for wrapping threads. Maybe we should divide rod building into two categories: rods for decoration and rods for catching fish. Both are admirable enterprises but have little in common, like a paintbrush used to paint a portrait versus a paintbrush used to paint a house.

Phil Ewanicki Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I am unable to find one SPECK of evidence about
> how or even IF the size of the first guide, its
> distance from the reel, or its ring material
> improves or diminishes a fly rod's casting
> efficiency! There is MUCH more information
> available about complimentary colors for wrapping
> threads. Maybe we should divide rod building into
> two categories: rods for decoration and rods for
> catching fish. Both are admirable enterprises but
> have little in common, like a paintbrush used to
> paint a portrait versus a paintbrush used to paint
> a house.


Love it - I would say however, a too small stripping guide on a saltwater rod, where the caster is developing very high line-speed, will inhibit the cast.
I've noticed the iine "bunching-up" on the back end of the stripper. So in most cases I will use a #20 stripper instead of a #16.
Herb

Mike,

I'm with Spencer and Bill, the Pac Bay "N" guides work and look great. I use them on trout sized fly rods (2-5 wt).

If all your casts are less than forty feet long it makes absolutely no difference what size or style of guides you use. Appearance alone, not function, rules the choice of components used for such rods.

There are cast less than 40'???? :-))
Herb

Thank for the suggestions. Everything, so far, is for freshwater and are for me and buddies. Definitely for catching fish.

My preference for stripping guides on lighter fly rods are the Baston LXN line. They are light weight yet hold up well yo some of my customers who treat rods rather hard.