Whew.. That was a tough one.. Theres 1 guy that sold this rod for 95$ the sticker at the cork reads ugly stik its a shakespeare 1580/195 If you type "shakespeare1580/195" in google, go to images, its right there.. Unfortunatly the only thing i can find is Hungarian.. Lol The date code under the patent pending is D_M (second letter is unreadable) this means it was made 'Dec.
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I just responded to you email, and can see when you originally sent it.. We shall just go blame the internet.. Thank you for your response
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If you look close at the picture of the guide you can tell its definatly a penetration issue.. To the right of the guide you can see the twist in the thread.. However.. I wonder if the issue of penetration is due to a contamination of sorts.. If you look at the other picture, where the black butt wrap is next to the red and gold, about 20-30 or so wraps back onto the black at the top you can se
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Funny you should ask.. Ive emailed mudhole, and reached out as requested to the specific email address that was posted.. Still, have not had an email response.. A little baffling to be honest.. To be directly told to reach out, and then ignored.. I emailed within 24hrs of the post for arguments sake.. For the record lynn, i wasnt trying to get anything free, or replaced.. My main obje
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We're working on RBA dont worry.. Lol (rod builders anonymous) Dont think of it as taking chances, think of it as a learning experience... The best part about building is you dont just get the knowledge, you have the tools to make any mistake correctable... It is addicting... I cant go into any store and look at the rods anymore.. I just want to buy them all and fix every issue i see.. And
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Fo as you please.. But just like thread bumps, high spots mut be removed for a exellent finish
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If you want to take material off faster, like 5 coats.. Wet sand with the heavier grit.. It really does work better... Lynn saw that first hand at my place.. Harder to see the highs and lows, but faster before the fine tune.. Also, not saying he didnt come up with it for finish, but thats just applied from shaping cork.. Using a block will keep cork even when sanding.. Either way.. Yay lyn
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Or carfully cut and smooth with a razor.. Then drop a little epoxy in..
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It really is.. Just make sure if you use a tack cloth it doesnt contain silicone.. I do use the warm water ans dish detergent method, it works for me.. Like ive said, everyone has thier own way.. Just keep in mind if you dont have a level surface, how is the epoxy going to level? Sorry for late responses, im at work.. If sanding, herb isnt lying.. Be very carful around the threads, if you go
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I Agreed with herb
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Everyone has their own process that works for them.. I agree with roger on skipping the flash process.. Note i flash the epoxy at the end.. Practice practice practice.. You will eventually come up with your own that will work great.. The guys here on the board probably were pulling thier hair out while mine was turning grey until i got a process down that worked for me.. The first 15 or s
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I do apply directly from the cup... This is my process.. I take my syringes, doesnt matter what type of epoxy, place them in my pocket with the caps on while i set up for application.. I use a coffee stiring stick instead of a brush, i find it apply the epoxy faster then a brush.. I mix no more then 2cc/syringe.. And thats alot of epoxy.. Making sure i stop pushing at the exact spot on eac
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No, it took you too long.. This is why most of up start with the bigger areas.. I never used the mixer, or foil.. I mix in a plastic cup.. Try pre warming your stuff.. Put it in. Pocket while you set everything up
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Im the same way.. Just rememeber, you can fix it.. Lol and practice makes perfect.. Or a perfectionist do it again lol.. Metallics can trap little bubbles sometimes.. Nature of the twist.. Atleast it seems this way to me..
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That could be a hundred diffrent things... Are your frame wraps metallic? Possible contamination can cause the small area on the first coat.. Which would push through to the second, possibly too much heat can cause bubbles.. Hkw long did You wait between coats? Could be the result of gas off.. If its a rod for you, you can do whatever you want.. I have a technique for elevating the surfac
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Im with roger there.. If your not familiar with how fast an epoxy starts to set up pn you its better to mix a second batch if necessary.. Nothing worse then mixing up a bunch and realizing your taking to long with half the guides left.. End up needing a second batch anyway.. Ive been doing 2 batchs for awhile now, i get too fussy... And my dryer only spins at 4.6 rpm (advertized as a 9rpm) it
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Last post on the topic for me.. Explain this website then... In fact.. Look to the left.. Notice mudhole AND CRB? I dont think they would sponser twice... Mudhole is NOT crb, they are a company, mudhole is a dealer, or distributor if you will.. RBS on the other hand may be, or may be a "team" effort for better choice of words... Mudhole is aware of my frustration and kn
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Its just a little stressful roger.. Second shift makes doing anything difficult.. Expecially finding the time to fix and correct problems that should never happen in the first place.. I just posted on the other thread about the power wrapper .. Im done.. Im calming.. Its just very frustrating sometimes... Your right.. And i dont mind paying for quality.. I spent a good month debating on w
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That link is 404.. If your link was for the only bearings i sae on the site, thkse are for the hand wrapper.. Nevermind.. Im done.. Its not only about the bearings.. why theres a CRB (as in the company) logo on the wrapper, and CRB (the company) doesnt have the wrapper on thier site.. I get it.. The RBS system.. A proprietary of mudhole, who designed the base, that the power wrapper made b
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Ok, so let me get this straight.. First off im waiting for mudhole to get back to me.. The satisfaction garentee says all defective products should be returned to the manufacturer, which is CRB... Or i guess mudhole.. The warrenty just covers blanks.. So replacing the bearings with after market bearings voids everything.. I dont have the original box anymore, and cant get oem bearin
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Ok.. So im not loosing my mind.. Now.. Go to CRB's web page.. Look at thier RBS system.. They dont even mention it.. Let alone prelude to it.. Its only advertized throigh mudhole, by mudhole.. I have it, along with the aluminim track, Hand wrapper, dryer, etc. Btw lynn.. You really need to hear it... Lol
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Ive been trying to find the manufacturer.. CRB doesnt even list it on thier site, mudhole doesnt have who its made by on thier site, ive emailed CRB twice without a answer back.. It does exsist... Right?
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How is this even possible? Out of the 3 power wrappers i got through mud hole, all 3 had shot bearings from the get go.. I always figured it was just a noisy head.. All i hear now is the wine on the motor.. Since i just replaced the 2 bearings in the head.. And another thing about the RBS pro power wrapper.. CRBs website wont get back to me about it, they ignore the emails, they dont even have it
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Well, that didnt work.. Lol the hardware i grabbed wont work since the derlin the guy at work cut for me cut them at 3/8th thick.. And the shanks wernt long, enough.. Guess im not getting those done thos weekend after all..
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Awesome, thanks roger.. And every one else
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I have to say without a doubt, this is a true passion, not just a hobby.. I only wish i would have started building ealier.. If and when i can, this is going to be my future source on income, rod building calms me down, and wakes what has been inside me for years... I plan on upgrading to proper, fully adapable equipment in time.. This is just to get by until then.. Ive already put my heart and s
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They always hang thier head when they see me come in lynn lol.. Im 'difficult' lol always looking for something specific.. I work at a machine shop.. We do phenolic, plastics, and of coarse, metals.. I had the saw guy cut me 12 derlin disks 1/4 inch wide, grabbed 3/8 bolts, nuts, and washers that have no thread for 1/4 inch.. Gonna go to my brothers Tommorrow night grab some wood. Should get
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Im going to build solid stands in the near future, right now i just need a strong bandaid.. Lol thank you all for the responses, and willingness to help...
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Roger, thats is basically the idea i had in mind... I was going to try and use the stands i have, and utalize the exsisting holes punched into them from the stamping process, but... They are i think #10 holes.. Cant even get a darn 1/8 inch screw through.. I dont know why i allways try and over complicate things.. I work at a machine shop, i can kinda get metal.. I shall build stands.. And i
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Thats it, ive had it.. Stupid v stands left thier mark on yet another rod, im going to upgrade the stands, or build new ones.. First things first.. Anyone have a good place to source bearings? With or without wheels... I dont want to use inline skates.. I cant find anything worth it for less then 50$/4 wheels.. I can make the wheels out of nylon at work, but i need bearings to press first.. I can
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