Thomas i believe you posted about wanting somebody with first hand experience with the Judge blanks and i was also interested , Roger didn't comment in that thread , maybe he recently picked one up or maybe he's just going on Batson's reputation . If he has experience fishing the Judge i as you would love to hear about it.
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Now lets not suck up to Tom too much , he's already very aware thats he's a tremendously impressive physical and mental specimen far exceeding us mere mortals .
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Makes sense since that factory in Fresnillo Mexico where Rod Geeks blanks are now made was a carbon copy setup of St. Croixs factory in Park Falls Wisconsin and is equipped with the exact same proprietary rod testing and manufacturing equipment . It is a joint venture with St.Croix as most are aware so the painting process should be similar . I can't tell a difference between my Rod Geeks &am
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I test cast with considerably heavier line than i know i'll typically ever use , i figure 50 pound braid will be much easier to tell if there's an issue with the guide layout that 10 - 20 pound that i typically use will . Choosing to test with light braid makes it much much more difficult to pick out areas where moving a guide a little here or there will make a difference since light braid cast
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Most custom builders put their label on the blank with the name of their outfit such as Lavigne custom rods so if thats what you're talking about it's not an issue at all . Most custom builders also build on a variety of different blanks and the customer will often choose the brand of blank he wants the rod to be built on or simply tell the builder what he is looking for and the builder will cho
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I static test before i set out to test cast and light masking tape will allow you to put a deep bend in the rod without any popping off , it's easy to look and adjust any guides that might need a small adjustment when you have a deep bend in the rod during static testing also . The guides just have to be reasonably aligned when test casting they certainly won't be as perfect as when you make you
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When i can't get the super small guides to stay tight with masking tape i switch to black electrical tape but i always cut the electrical tape lengthwise with scissors so i just get a long strip about a 1/4 inch wide. i snip it to get 4 to 5 inch strips . It never breaks and it stretches a lot , it secures those tiny guides super tight and is simple to remove . Don't buy the dollar variety e
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NFC has had plenty of time now to get it together as this discussion is nothing new , it appears they have not done whats necessary to get things moving along at a considerably faster pace and customers have every right to be extremely annoyed. Sure hiring and training additional help is an expense but the way things are continuing to go is not satisfactory and a change is needed . I have seen
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Drew Pollock Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > With most decals, the most important thing, is > that there is a layer of epoxy UNDER it. It's an > extra step, but then there is no difference in the > refractive index on the material associated with > the decal. That helps to hide the edges of the > decal. Thats extremely helpful inf
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I have not built one but i did check them out at the expo and it was one of two blanks by Batson that really appealed to be , it was more stout than the others which really peaked my interest , felt like a blank that i typically prefer . Interested in hearing feedback myself .
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Roger Wilson: Drop the line to the bottom, drop the rod in a rod holder and have lunch. When the fish bites, the tip will bend, the clicker on the reel will go off signaling a bite. Put down your sandwich, take the rod out of the rod holder and reel in your 60 lb sturgeon. All fishing should be that easy .
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I'm the opposite , i love the way they feel i just despise the way they look but i'm usually in the minority . Check the second below link , it has hundreds of opinions on Winn Grips.
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Decal connection mentions nothing about color preserver on their detailed instructions for applying their decals . Instructions: Before you begin the application process, place a thin coat of epoxy on the blank where you will be placing the decal and let dry. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT! This step provides a flawless surface for the decal to adhere to. Without this step, we do not guar
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Tony Boschi Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thank you both, I am probably going to do some > shopping here this weekend for some new blanks! > > And thank GOODNESS I live close to Orlando and > Mudhole as I can probably strap those one piece, > 13 footers to the top of my truck! > > I know ANYTHING over 9 feet now is (GASP!) $2
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I was just fishing a rod that i set up with a KL-H 25 - 12H - 5.5M -5.5 KB and size 5 KT runners on out and it's amazing . I did what Jim suggested and put in 14-17 mono and the reel i put in was a 4000 size Stradic FK . The Stradic's propulsion line management system with it's worm gear oscillation and spool lip design throws smaller coils than many other reels which is a big plus.
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Rodgeeks has some great ones . CTS also has a bunch from 12 feet to 15 feet in the Vapor Trail and S-7 series , contact Herb .
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Since the amount of time you have waited for it to harden is unknown it's a tough question to answer but i would say if you applied the finish two days ago and it's still soft i would definitely start over as Roger said , if it's been much less time it's probably worth putting it in a much warmer place to see what happens as the above gentlemen suggested. I ran into your issue when i used to
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Carbon fiber skinned grips are no "slicker" than > wooden hammer handles and those have stood the > test of time in all sorts of weather and > conditions. Hundreds of thousands of carpenters > over a few centuries seemed to find them easy > enough to grip. > > ............
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Perfectly normal behavior.
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Rick Elrod: "Because I will be using heavy lines I opted for a guide train of 20,10, 5.5, and on out with 4.5s." Don't know how heavy the line you have in mind is but your thinking is correct in choosing a little bit larger stripper if heavier than typical lines are going to be used.
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A grip poll huh , OK , my rods all have a very pronounced X Grip style handle ( Opposite of X Flock) because i find them extremely grippy and durable . I wrap thick cord under high tension , solidify it overnight and apply shrink the next day . There is an image in the photos section if you can find it , somehow i can't . It's there somewhere though lol. Another top choice is cork of cou
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The mechanical mixer does work great as Tom mentioned and i used to use one . That was until i read something Billy V said about him never having bubble issues , he said it doesn't matter if the finish is stirred into a bubbly froth because all you have to do is flame the finish with a propane torch and your jaw will hit the floor in total amazement . I decided to try it , well lets just say i
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I agree with Norm , the key to ridding yourself of all bubble problems is either a butane or propane torch , you can apply the finish even if it's jam packed with bubbles and as soon as you flame it they will be instantly gone . Forget the alcohol torch it doesn't work nearly as well , i use an alcohol torch to get rid of frizzies only because it doesn't burn as hot as other flames . I rap
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Seth Johnson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The Rodgeeks C4F908.4 looks pretty good for the > price, thanks Herb Sure thing , the RodGeeks carbon IV material is considered the same as St. Croixs SC IV grade of carbon . Unfortunately Rod Geeks doesn't offer an equivalent to St. Croixs SC V material at this time , RodGeeks carbon II stuff is equal
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Some confusion here , Tom never said anything about the # of guides that should be used , he was saying just to make sure the size 5 guides could easily manage the leader/knots you intend to use thats all . If size 5 guides can easily handle the connections great if not than up the size a bit .
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Just a FWIW , i am a fan of St. Croix blanks probably because i'm very familiar with them and like their actions but their cost is why i have been building a few rods with RodGeeks blanks since they're literally St. Croix blanks just made in Mexico so their cheaper. The below link has some of their fly blank offerings so if any appeal to you than you could save some $. As for advice on
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If i ever obtain a boat i will certainly be purchasing a floating rod but not right away. The reason is because at this point i have been able to contain my rods inside the boat which is not easy as we all know , i mean sure iv'e had a few rods attempt to break loose and float but none have been able to make it over the side completely. If you have a rod or rod's that enjoy floating i would
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Maybe my rods will float! Just don’t have the > guts to throw them over board to find out. > Norm Floating rods are overrated imo Norm , sure, a floating rod is very desirable but i think the key here and the more important part that is being overlooked is to find a way to somehow keep the rods on
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Thomas Kaufmann Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- " It rests peacefully at the bottom of Pomme De Terre in Missouri" LOL , i'm sure it was a blast before it plunged to it's death at the bottom though , fond memories but an important aspect was learned in the process , we now can add " Tremendous bouncing ability" to the already impre
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > How deep is the water that the rod is in? > > Is it more than 2 inches deep? I was thinking about 5 inches deep with the reel resting on an underwater rock.
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