Roger, Thank you for the exceptionally informative and point-blank read as to why not to attempt to alter then chemical properties of any epoxy by thinning or heating. Everyone should take serious note of the context!!!
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Dennis, I used CitriStrip on two rods when I first started building rods. Lynn is correct in that it is a rather mild stripper and will probably require 2 or 3 applications and that it certainly is messy. I have found scraping the blank with a razorblade held 90* to the blank to be much easier, less time-consuming (30 minutes max), no mess and no cost for the stripper. I learned of the method on
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There is very little ice outside here in So Cal and hence I haven’t a clue about ice fishing; those of you who do are definitely diehards! From a totally remote if not ignorant point of view, would these charcoal-activated hand/feet warmer packets be a benefit to de-ice guides? It seems to be a much less brutal approach than whacking the poor rod on the ice.
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Phil, I have also been experimenting with Robert’s great suggestion as well. Apparently, you and I came to the same conclusion. However, I found applying the CP after the thread was wrapped around the blank to work the best for me. I then trimmed the tags and align the ends exactly as you did. My first attempt on a .625 (5/8)in diameter blank turned out so perfectly that a magnifying glass was n
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Norman, Thanks for your input and insight as well. I am unfamiliar with the Clive hitch but will look it up. At the risk of sounding ungrateful, if I am going to use more than a single thread for the trim band, I might as well go for three and start and tie-off as usual. I think most of us rod builders would closely inspect a rod with remote single-thread trim bands to discover how it was perfor
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Zach, Before the veterans offer their knowledge, make sure the adhesive you use is a catalyzed, 2-part epoxy and NOT an air-drying or moisture curing glue. The epoxies available at Home Depot and such will certainly work but may not be as flexible when cured as rod-specific epoxies, which may not be as critical in the butt section. I am unfamiliar with all their offerings and the only 2-part epo
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Phil, I am humbly flattered by the endorsement from a respected veteran = THANKS!
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Thanks for the replies; they are greatly appreciated. I can always count on you guys. Donald, I have dabbled with using silk thread and even performed a few trial-runs employing the ink to color a single rotation of thread to produce a single thread appearance such as in the photo you shared. I think a single thread looks very delicate, elegant and intriguing, even when the thread is added and d
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Michael, me too. Phil Er., I have only been able to locate information on single-thread inlays which simply rely on adding and dropping threads; not remote single-thread trim bands away from other threadwork. Can you please be more specific as to the article implied?
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Do any of you employ single-thread trim bands which are by themselves, away from a main wrap? If so, what is your method? The tag ends of 3 or more thread trim bands can be tucked under the other threads in the usual fashion and stay in place but obviously not so with a single-thread trim band. I have done singles by crossing the tag ends and pulling them 180* and taping them down but need to inc
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Lynn and Michael, without having the product description/ directions of U40 Brush Cleaner as Lynn suggested reading, I have adopted Tom, Roger, possibly Ralph O”Quinn and others recommendation, if not insistence, of scoffing the surface after the application of any solvent, be it U40, acetone, DNA and such; it simply makes good, practical sense. Obviously, I could not scoff the decal in my scenar
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Lynn, if I only save one person from the aggravation I encountered, then it was worth the effort! I have not used U40 Brush Cleaner but if Ralph O’Quinn formulated it, it must be good. I have always used acetone with anything related to composites, obviously epoxy included. Tom may disagree, and I totally understand his position if not even agree, but the acetone wipe-down prior to applying the t
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50 years ago, I learned to ASSUME = makes an ASS out of U and ME! It is frustrating and embarrassing to admit I do not always follow the lesson (which should have been) learned. Maybe when I grow up I’ll get better. I assumed using a blue painters tape would produce an even better result than my tried-and-true previous process but it came back to bite me in the butt. Lynn, thank you for the kind
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Thank you for additional replies! Ben, excuse me if I did not explain things properly; I do not have issues with power-rotating a rod while the epoxy cures. Lance, I have never experienced problems coating over a decal before this scenario. Not being a CP proponent, I would prefer to avoid its use. But, as stated previously, drastic times can deserve drastic measures. Something tells me this wa
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I appreciate the additional comments = Thanks. Allow me to clarify that with the masked borders on either side of the logo to be coated, the lengthwise brush strokes extend onto the tape which could pull contamination from the tape onto the logo area. Ross, your post was very logically approached; it would seem the decal itself was the source of contamination and by wiping the epoxy off the are
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Tom, Once again you are correct; the remaining epoxy left in the bottom of the cup is perfectly flat without requiring any brushing or “messing” with the finish. In all due respect, the mixing cup is only 1in in diameter and the sides confine the epoxy from spreading unlike the 3in span covering my logo. I have never achieved a perfectly level “lens” covering that large of an area, but a little
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Tom, Agreed, and I rarely tape, use solvents or mess with the finish. You are point-on. However, certain procedures require masking such as attempting to get a high gloss, level finish over a decal right next to a dry or minimally coated thread wrap border such as mine. I have found in addition to the typical rotational “strokes “ of the application brush, lengthwise strokes (which extend past t
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Phil, Your post are always interesting to say the least and I look forward to reading them. You have left me no room to comment with your quote,”Beware the man who has one gun. He knows how to use it”. Can’t say it any better than that!!!
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Shame on you Don. It just ain’t fair to dangle a drumstick in front of a hungry rodbuilder! But, obviously, I did read your post. Funny.
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There have been a number of posts concerning contamination and fish-eyes while using epoxy which I have replied to in hopes of helping those afflicted. I have never personally experienced contamination problems while rod building assuming it was due to my regiment of cleanliness, UNTIL NOW. I am convinced my epoxy woes were due to the use of blue tape (3M if it matters). For whatever reason, I d
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KISS = Keep It Simple Stupid. You have accomplished that even though you are far from being stupid. It is simple, effective, easy to make, very little cost and it looks very nice as well. I have learned to not expect anything less from you, Roger. GOOD JOB!!!
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Lynn, Love your response! You are often entertaining and your reply is a prime example! Unfortunately, the only ice I can find out here in LALA Land is at ice skating rinks and they would probably frown on drilling.
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Norman, The main reason I built this rod is simply because I can, thanks to all I have learned from many, you included, on this site. Secondly, the gracious gifts from you and my Japanese friend deserved to be used, especially in memory of my friend. While admittedly not last on the list, the shock and/or fun-factor aspect, “conversation piece” as you said, made building it enjoyable while antic
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Norman, I am confident you are not questioning the casting distance due to the spiral wrapped guides. Casting distance is always a major concern and it has been observed the shorter the rod the shorter the casting distance; a 32in rod will not cast as far as an 84in rod. Unfortunately, I have a much larger issue with this set-up; the Diawa Coronet Mini reel is a “Knuckle-Buster” in that it only
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Billy, It is comforting to learn I am not the only one afflicted with the desire to build such. What does Chris use for reels? I have caught a trout with the reel years ago but haven’t had the opportunity to employ this rod. Lynn, Si, bueno.
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Roger, Great post, thanks! At the risk of sounding insubordinate, without guides, I think that is a pole rather than rod lol. The power and action are of little concern when viewing how many fish it catches. I am quite certain the pole could handle fish 4X or more of what we viewed. The point to be taken is that one does not need all that fancy, frilly, maybe even functional stuff to catch fish;
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Hello to all and I hope you find this a pleasant departure from the typical questions and answers. Please find photos in the photo section under Miscellaneous, Mark’s Mini Spiral Wrapped Rod. I apologize for the quality of the photos but such is the best I can afford. My simple hope is that all of you find this project entertaining and possibly chuckle-enhancing. While light-hearted from a serio
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No, but there is no reason you couldn’t. Imagination should be endless and beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
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Lynn, I am certain your builds are more than top-notch. I am simply questioning the benefit of using a 4mm tip top to follow 2mm running guides. The inverse would seem more practical.
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Ken, So much for my attempt to help; Good luck!!!
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