Very interesting and intriguing, Steve, and certainly unique and custom. If I understand your description correctly, the reel is permanently affixed to the CF handle via wrapping thread and finish epoxy. That would produce an even thinner mount for the reel than my .025in thick composite slip rings. The only question I have is regarding transportation and storage of the rod with the reel attached
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Jeffery, The general consensus is to apply thread finish, or at least CP, to the under wrap (usually size A). You still need the threads of the under wrap to be packed tightly and evenly. Coating the under wraps not only makes wrapping the over wrap easier and more precise, but also virtually insures the under wrap is saturated completely with finish. I have given thought to wrapping the under a
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David, The first (and most likely last) rod I stripped, I employed CitriStrip. It is a mild stripper which is good in respect to not damaging the blank. But, being mild, you will undoubtedly discover the need to apply it two or three times. Additionally, it is messy, time-consuming and adds cost. I have found a slightly-duller-than-virgin single edge razor blade held perpendicular to scrape the
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Sean, Due to Terry’s and Tom’s reply, I too would suggest you at least consider a Tennessee handle. Please see my comments under Wes Woods post, ”Reel Seat – threads front or back”, two posts above this.
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Wes, I suppose it really boils down to personal preference as there are benefits to both up-locking and down-locking reel seats and hence not really a right or wrong way. Hopefully, other will chime in with reasoning of their preferred direction. Before I started building rods, I had never given it any thought as all the rods I had purchased were up-locking. You have received good replies statin
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There are many who are overly concerned with the (breaking) strength of wrapping thread to keep the guides in place. The concern is unwarranted when logically examining the application and function of even size A thread to wrap a guide. The size A ProWrap I use withstands more than 2.5lbs of force before it breaks; let’s allow a 20% + margin of error and say its breaking strength is 2lb. Wrapped
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Herb, You beat me to it. Thanks and the same to you, the rest of the rod building community as well!!!
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Hopefully all of you completed those last-minute custom builds and can now relax a bit and enjoy the rest of the holiday season. HAPPY HOLIDAYS to all of you who have helped me so much.
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Listen to and possibly employ Roger Wilson; he is a retired EE, has been building rods for more than 40 years, and has built many wrappers and dryers for many people. He is a gift to the rod building world!!!
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While all of us rod builders, and anyone else for that matter, like to take advantage of getting something for FREE, caution needs to be employed as, “anything too good to be true generally is”. In this case, FREE SHIPPING offered by a multitude of businesses may have down-sides which are unacceptable; slow, extended shipping times being on top of the list. Large businesses with large volume ship
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Roger and replying others, First of all, Roger, I am glad you escaped without any more serious bodily harm and for reminding the rest of us how easily building a rod can become a dangerous disaster. Many others offered suggestions regarding safety as well. I think is really boils-down the common sense and avoiding complacency, with the latter possibly causing the lion’s-share of injuries. No loo
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Ken, From your reply, I assume you will be building a spin surf rod of unknown line and lure weight. The KL-Hs I mentioned were applied to a light, freshwater rod. There may be better applicable reduction guides for your surf rod such as the Fuji RV, but hang onto your hat as they are expensive. I have only (re)built two surf rods, one spinning, the other casting and both were vintage FG Conolon
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Ken, If you are looking for lightweight grips, cork tape may not be the best material = it is fairly heavy. On the flip-side, the additional butt weight might aid in beginning to balance a long, 10ft rod if that is a concern. I use cork tape covered with flocked shrink tubing for the majority of my saltwater rods because it is very comfortable, extremely durable, easy to clean (especially scales
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Bob, Search this site under “CARL Ferrules”. I have slightly modified the process since then, but it is quite straight forward and relatively simple while only requiring less than two hours start to finish, less per each with multiple ferrules on the same blank. The way I understand it, the method you described is not really producing an engineered tip-over-butt ferrule but simply cutting the b
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Bob, I would be very interested in viewing the article on how to make tip-over-but ferrules. I cannot imagine how someone could cut a blank and make a TOB ferrule. I developed a method of making FG sleeve and spigot ferrules to be used in conjunction with each other. By utilizing the blank itself as a mold, the tapers are inherently identical. I call it CARL = Constant Arc Rod Link.
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Ed, Very interesting subject (of which I have limited knowledge). If dry “caulk/powerders are available, I would think that is the way to go as to limiting incompatible components/chemicals being introduced and adversely affecting the properties of the base epoxy. That being said, I have been told to use an oil-based tinting agent rather than a water-based pigment when applied to epoxy. Sorry I
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I and other members possibly as well, appreciate the replies from Phil, Tony, Donald, Lynn, Norman and Roger. Hopefully others will take the time to reply and express why they wrap in their certain, preferred direction. I suppose initially learning in one direction would take precedence and make trying to wrap in the opposite direction awkward and uncomfortable at best; I know that holds true for
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Bob, I am curious as to what you use for ferrules, especially with that many?
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Which direction do you perform your thread wrapping; the thread coming from behind and above to down in front or the opposite, from down in front to above and behind? More importantly is why you choose the direction you employ? It is certainly personal preference and neither direction is wrong or right, but I am simply curious. Additionally, do you employ a flexible thread-tension rod/wire/buggy
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Tony, Thank you for, and I appreciate, your compliment as well. I could not agree with you more concerning the reversibility and switching between speed control from either the panel or petal; both are very important yet overlooked by most rod builders and manufacturers of power wrappers as well. Reversibility not only affords thread wrapping in either direction (my wraps dictate wrapping from d
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Rick and Bruce, Thank you for, and I appreciate, the compliments. I hope someone out there can use and adapt my old powerhead to their hand wrapper. As stated earlier, it has served me well, especially when used in conjunction with a slip clutch. With the adjustable tension/drag of a slip clutch, I utilize the benefits for not only applying finish but thread wrapping as well.
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This post is to serve two purposes; 1.) Offer my rod wrapper powerhead for sale to someone in need, and 2.) Admittedly show off a bit with my new powerhead, chuck and live center fabricated to fit my existing self-built rod wrapper of which I am quite proud. Please find photos under Equipment and Tools, Mark’s Wrapper Upgrade. The old powerhead has served me well since I started wrapping 4 years
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Jon, I am unfamiliar with Aeromarine epoxy but can only assume it is a structural epoxy (~4-to-1 mix ratio) rather than the typical rod building epoxies (~1-to-1 mix ratio). If not sealed from the environment while curing, structural epoxies are very susceptible if not prone to developing amine-blush on the surface. Amine-blush is recognized as a waxy, tacky film and it will seriously impede if
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Vincent, You brought-up a good point about post curing epoxy, one which I have mentioned numerous times on this site without any response. John DeMartini offered the best reply to your question, especially the first paragraph, and I totally agree. Is post curing epoxy required for rod building = no; is it better = yes; is it required for structural composites = indeed.
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Without having Ralph O’Quinn to ask, is CP exempt from the ill effects of contamination? I have read a number of posts from members suggesting they employ CP prior to thread finish epoxy to avoid contamination woes. From my experience, contamination is contamination, especially silicone, and nothing is spared the anguish of the ill effects. But then, I rarely use CP.
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All of this should be a mood-point; the best guide placement will be determined by the loaded and unloaded “two line static load testing” method, period! No matter how far one wishes to delve into the physics of rod dynamics, the best guide placement along any given blank is easily, precisely and repeatedly obtained by utilizing the simple two-line-static-load- testing method!
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Roger is correct on more than one issue pertaining to epoxy and heat; yes, it is important to mix and apply (most) epoxy somewhere around 75*F but it is additionally beneficial to the epoxy to remain at a constant, similar temperature while curing, not unlike keeping the pieces to be bonded from moving; epoxy responds best while curing in a consistent environment, heat or (non)movement. Many in o
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I agree with Drew while acknowledging we may be in the minority.
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Aleks, I would sign-up immediately given more information. If Spenser’s situation prevails, count me out as well! I learned many years ago that anything which appears to be too good to be true, usually is!
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Mitchell, I cannot see why applying a different second coat of epoxy over an initial coat of a different epoxy would cause problems. While not in the same league as Ralph O’Quinn, most of the different brands of thread finish are very similar; just variations on the same theme. As Lynn mentioned, to minimize any possible inter-reaction, allowing the first coat to cure before the application of t
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