I do what Ron Schneider does. If you glue cork rings to the blank and then turn them on your rod wrapper you are going to create two problems. 1) a mess to clean up where you need the area to be the most clean. 2) the probability of a subsurface flaw on the cork that is only exposed when you turn it to shape or an unacceptable shape/look. #2 can really screw everything up and it has happened to m
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Thanks Mark, I think any innovation in fishing tackle is relevant to rod building. Looks cool, I want one!
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On fly rods, to me, it is not necessary to wrap the tip top. If you do it, it will hold better with more wraps over the tag end when starting and ending. On very thin tips it is difficult and usually looks a little lumpy, it will smooth out or level out with epoxy, try not to get too much or it will football on you. Keep it flat and make sure it doesn't develop a drip or sag, you may have to remo
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You can do a Tiger Wrap much faster with a powered wrapper but there is no way I can use power on a weave, but I don't do them anyway. There is definitely a learning curve on a power wrapper. The thing that I found the most helpful was to adjust the potted (Potentiometer speed controller) controller speed to move slow to fast in a longer foot peddle motion so you can control the speed better. The
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I can't figure out the picture thing either so I use links to other sites where you can view them. I use computers and programs to make a living and have even coded additions to programs and the picture aspect they use is antiquated to say the least. I know there is not enough funding to update the site, so what is the point. Sounds like a nice rod but maybe a little slower or heavier than the ot
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><))))> Hood fishing for carp. Here in the Houston there are carp in the bayous and drainage canals. Some of the best spots are located in the "Hood". We fly fish for them with special flies that we know they will hit. Its really great fun but it is best to be outa of there by about 3:30 pm (1530) before the gangsters get up. Of course, here in Texas we can carry, but the inten
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It would look good with KWs all the way. Look at some of the ALPs aluminum trigger seats like an AT20 if you want to go lighter try to find a graphite one that has a big enough ID where you are mounting it on the blank.
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Lamson. They use the same sealed drag on all their reels including the less expensive ones.
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Phil is correct, matching a fly line to the rod and your abilities is the trick. This can get expensive if you don't get the right fly line the first time or you may just not know that the rod you just built would cast better with a different line. If you are going to commit and teach yourself to double haul, cast at least 80' and cast into or sideways into a 15 knt+ wind; then spend the money on
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Your guide train is spot on. I purposely use a slightly larger tip top for 4 mm and 4.5 mm running guides. A 4.5 for the tip top if using 4 mm running train and a 5 TT if using 4.5 running guides. Most of my builds are for guys using braid and that is the spott that will have the most effect on the leader knot. You have already controlled the "wave" in the line with rapid reduction and
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ben belote Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > this is just an opinion but i think the grreatest > advancement in fishing has been the line itself > not rods or reels..i have given up building on > graphite rods and gone back to fiberglass because > of the new gel spun lines..i can get more than > enough sensitivity with glass if i use these n
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FG knot will also work.
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I paint aluminum winding checks all the time. Get a can of acrylic enamel spray paint in the color of your choice. Not sure why you would use a powder coat for jig heads. Testers paints also works well. When you epoxy over the wraps next to the winding check coat the painted check also. Make a nice clean line where it goes on the grip or reel seat, you can use painter's tape if you don't have a
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9' 6" 9wt 4pc CTS, NFC or Sage X blank. The lighter the better. Use double foot snakes like REC and get some nice double foot strippers like the REC Cerecoil, Fuji KW Torzite or Seaguide TiLBG with Silicon Nitride ring-RS. This is based off of your original post. I have not tried any of the Matrix blanks but they sound pretty good. I would compare the weights of the blanks and make a decisio
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Russell Brunt Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Does it have the same stretch as they old nylon > that we all loved (no need to mention name brands > as you know what I mean)? The Fuji Ultra Poly does not stretch like nylon thread so it will take a little getting used to if you have only used nylon. The colors are good and vibrant and their NCP hold
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I will build a custom rod for someone with no money required until finished and they are wanting it. If they don't like it after a couple of cast there is no charge. No one has not purchased the rod after they ordered it. Those CTS blanks are expensive and are very nice. I just build rods and don't outfit them with reels and line. I do however, build to the specific reel the client will be using.
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A brush works better than a spatula, I have tried both and you can control/manage the epoxy better with the brush. The thread wrapping epoxy is flexible and you should be able to cut it off or scrape and peel around the eyes and legs.
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I spend extra to get American.
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Joel Babin Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Lance Schreckenbach Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > I have not tried an XRay blank yet because I > > am sold on the P703-1 HM LMX. I cut it down to > a > > 6'9" and it is the best bait caster Speckled > Trout > > rod that I have
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Epoxy resins and catalyst are made in small batches and short runs to a formula usually given to the manufacturer by the distributor / buyer. Sometimes these are not made to exact standards and can have varying degrees of properties and still pass lab test for acceptable product. There are many factors that can affect this like cleaning between different runs and the operators competence to preci
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chris c nash Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > " A fellow rod builder came up to me and said > "check this out" I look up and he flexes this > purple/blue blank and it snaps with with very > little effort. He proceeds to grab another one off > the rack and does the same thing and it snaps. He > grabs another one and bang it sn
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One of the rods I built with the Fuji PB ML blank was a baitcaster and it really accelerated the lure to where I was getting a lot of back lashes. The new baitcaster DC reels fixed that and it is one the best rods I cast now. With a spinning reel it will totally launch a lure with some real distance. I have used that blank for both types of rods. I have not tried an XRay blank yet because I am so
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I have noticed the same thing Phil, I believe they think that it will effect sales. They could at least offer a line type that would work best. The only thing I have seen close to that is them saying something like "made for the new half size heavier lines" but nothing about taper or head length. It still is just "buy it and see". You can go broke real fast.
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There was production line of blanks by a major producer that were very inclined to breakage a few years back. I will not say the manufacturer because they are a stand up company and have since corrected the issue. I was in a components area of a local tackle store, when a fellow rod builder came up to me and said "check this out" I look up and he flexes this purple/blue blank and it sna
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I agree that there is no need for the 6M. FYI: "Nano Resin" is a term used to sell rods / blanks and is useless as an enhancement to performance or longevity, because the nano powder they add to the resin may actually weaken the strength and elasticity of it. You are definitely on the right track.
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Colin, Mark T is correct as is Norman's post about the progressive (or non progressive) spacing. The sizes Mark has suggested will get you to that progressive spacing.
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Calling them gives a greater sense of urgency. It makes it personal.
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My set up for 7' MLF: 20 KH, 10 KH, 5.5 M, 4 KB, 4 KB, 4 KB, 4 KT, 4 KT, 4 KT and 4.5 TT. Stripper spacing depends on reel to choke point and running guides depend on static testing.
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I have an old Penn SS reel, not sure the model number but it holds about 150 yds of 8# mono. Bought in 1986 and it still works pretty good after years of abuse that includes full dunking in saltwater. Kent is correct that they don't make them like that anymore and the last few Penns I have bought and used in SW have had issues with corrosion. Expensive reels and they just don't hold up without co
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Build on the straightest axis, up or down. Spine doesn't matter. If you really just have to, put the rod on solid ground, straight up and push down on the tip. Mark the inside bend, that is the spine.
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